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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
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Last edit by: Bob Barry
Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!

7.26.17 - BB
In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts:
TKR6106 Orange LF Springs
TKR6114 Green LF Springs
TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8072 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps
TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs
TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm)
TKR8104 .4 bellcranks
TKR8100 .4 ackerman
TKR5545B HRC Hubs
You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite)

What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

TKR5161 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace A block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5163 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace C block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5545B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6004T (front)
-TKR6017T (rear)


What spare parts should I keep on hand?
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR5516 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5542 Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 12-21-2015, 07:57 PM   #2761
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Originally Posted by Matthew_Armeni View Post
I haven't seen that issue before. I just tried to replicate it on some of trucks here and the only truck that the bumper popped out on was one where the A block was stripped. I can't see how the bumper can flex enough over that short of a distance to go from between the chassis and bulkhead to under the chassis unless the A block is stripped or the bumper isn't tight against the A block. Make sure your A block isn't stripped, if it's not make sure your bumper is wedged between the bulkhead and the chassis and that it is all the way up against the A block.
I agree,A block must be striped or the bumper isn't in all the way. Sometime i would have to loosen the 4 screws that hold the bulkhead to get the bumper in right. But now that i'm running the Aluminum A block...no more issues.
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Old 12-22-2015, 02:27 AM   #2762
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Originally Posted by Millsy97 View Post
Hello, I know that it is possible to convert the sct410.3 to a buggy but I'm not sure what I'd need complete the conversion. If someone could help it would be appreciated.

Thanks Alex
Anyone?
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Old 12-22-2015, 07:59 AM   #2763
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Anyone?
Try post 2196. Found from using search in a very short amount of time.
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Old 12-22-2015, 08:27 AM   #2764
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Search function is your friend. I think there has been lots of talk on this thread or the OG SCT410 thread about it. But at least body, wing and mount (I think the wing mounts come with body mounts) and the 17mm conversion from Tekno, TKR5570-17). If you don't want to shave off the nerf guard tabs on the side trays, you will also need side trays. Also a front bumper.
That's just off the top of my so I might be missing something.
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Old 12-22-2015, 11:52 AM   #2765
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Drove the .3 for the first time last night. Need help with a couple of things. Currently the rig is set up to stock specs.

1. The cap screw on the steering links was rubbing on the rim. I removed the two washers it says to install above the link ball and that fixed the issue.

2. Very sharp low speed/ off power turning.

3. Not enough on power steering.

4. Traction rolled a couple of times. I reduced the droop front and rear and it seemed to help. I didn't have a ruler or a caliper to measure my exact droop so I know I need to do that.

I've read the set up manual for my old SCTE but I'm not sure where to start here. I'm running on a mid sized indoor clay track. Currently my lap times are 19-22. The fast guys are running 16-17.
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Old 12-22-2015, 01:07 PM   #2766
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the overly sharp off power steering is fixed with the 2 steering stop screws that are not listed in the manual behind the carriers. i still have not fig out how to get more on power steering even with no washers behind the steering stops,going to try reducing front diff oil next
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Old 12-22-2015, 01:49 PM   #2767
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More on power steering...reduce droop in front a bit more (what I would recommend to start), reduce kick up (my next try), increase anti-squat (I would try to stay away from this if I could. I've been running 7/7/4 on indoor high bite clay with excellent results for quite a while now. The majority of your improvement will likely come from familiarity with the platform and wheel time. Have fun with it! It's a great truck.
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Old 12-22-2015, 01:56 PM   #2768
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 65BAJA View Post
Drove the .3 for the first time last night. Need help with a couple of things. Currently the rig is set up to stock specs.

1. The cap screw on the steering links was rubbing on the rim. I removed the two washers it says to install above the link ball and that fixed the issue.

2. Very sharp low speed/ off power turning.

3. Not enough on power steering.

4. Traction rolled a couple of times. I reduced the droop front and rear and it seemed to help. I didn't have a ruler or a caliper to measure my exact droop so I know I need to do that.

I've read the set up manual for my old SCTE but I'm not sure where to start here. I'm running on a mid sized indoor clay track. Currently my lap times are 19-22. The fast guys are running 16-17.
1) Yep, or put in a button head.

2) The steering stop limiters are indeed to help this and consistency. I personally don't run them though right now as I like the hard turn in to break it loose and throttle drift the corners on the low bite dusty track I'm on. On other tracks I do more turning on late brake and then throttle out hard. The limiters have instructions in the EB48SL manual that talk about them. The holes in the spindle's leverage arms are for this.

3) There are a few things here, but common ways to pick up more steering everywhere are to reduce front kick up, increase rear anti-squat, or to shorten and raise the front inner camber link, or lengthen the rear (which will give more traction overall, but cause more of a drift all over in most driving situations and styles). Reducing front droop can also help with this as less weight will transfer off of the front wheels.

4) Traction rolling is generally controlled with:
a) stiffer anti-sway bars (on the end that is digging in and making it roll)
b) more static camber so you tend to slide instead of catch and roll
c) being careful not to go sideways where there are ruts on the track
d) limiting droop to reduce maximum roll angle
e) lowering ride height

I think we talked about the screws at the track, so please feel free to ask anything whenever.
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Old 12-22-2015, 03:01 PM   #2769
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Originally Posted by JFuel11 View Post
Anyone having an issue with the front bumper on this truck? Every time my son lands a little nose down the bumper pushes out from the chassis and then hangs down about 1/4 below the front of the chassis. It causes issues with handling once it happens for the rest of the run. There are not super hard hits causing this issue so any help would be great.

Thanks
Had the same issue it was driving me nuts. It was the piece in between bumper and tower the oVal shaped piece was squished out of shape putting a bow In bumper (should be flat) replaced and problem gone.
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Old 12-23-2015, 04:01 AM   #2770
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Originally Posted by rjohn929 View Post
Try post 2196. Found from using search in a very short amount of time.
Thank you kind sir
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Old 12-23-2015, 08:35 AM   #2771
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Originally Posted by ResultsRC View Post
the overly sharp off power steering is fixed with the 2 steering stop screws that are not listed in the manual behind the carriers. i still have not fig out how to get more on power steering even with no washers behind the steering stops,going to try reducing front diff oil next
Quote:
Originally Posted by bds81175 View Post
More on power steering...reduce droop in front a bit more (what I would recommend to start), reduce kick up (my next try), increase anti-squat (I would try to stay away from this if I could. I've been running 7/7/4 on indoor high bite clay with excellent results for quite a while now. The majority of your improvement will likely come from familiarity with the platform and wheel time. Have fun with it! It's a great truck.
Quote:
Originally Posted by justpoet View Post
1) Yep, or put in a button head.

2) The steering stop limiters are indeed to help this and consistency. I personally don't run them though right now as I like the hard turn in to break it loose and throttle drift the corners on the low bite dusty track I'm on. On other tracks I do more turning on late brake and then throttle out hard. The limiters have instructions in the EB48SL manual that talk about them. The holes in the spindle's leverage arms are for this.

3) There are a few things here, but common ways to pick up more steering everywhere are to reduce front kick up, increase rear anti-squat, or to shorten and raise the front inner camber link, or lengthen the rear (which will give more traction overall, but cause more of a drift all over in most driving situations and styles). Reducing front droop can also help with this as less weight will transfer off of the front wheels.

4) Traction rolling is generally controlled with:
a) stiffer anti-sway bars (on the end that is digging in and making it roll)
b) more static camber so you tend to slide instead of catch and roll
c) being careful not to go sideways where there are ruts on the track
d) limiting droop to reduce maximum roll angle
e) lowering ride height

I think we talked about the screws at the track, so please feel free to ask anything whenever.
Thank you everyone. I am going to my first race with the rig tonight. Probably enter in Rookie so I don't end up a rolling speedbump for the fast guys. If I can get my consistency to within 1-2 sec per lap I'll bump up to 4wdSC.

I bought some shims for the servo saver post to reduce the play. It's not much but it's the only play in the whole truck and I would like to shim it out if I can. I also ordered the aluminum ackerman plate as the nylon nuts spun during assembly. I got them tight with a pair of needle nose pliers so its all good.
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Old 12-25-2015, 01:07 PM   #2772
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Mrs. King Dork is the bomb! SCT410.3 under the tree.
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Old 12-25-2015, 03:30 PM   #2773
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Mrs. King Dork is the bomb! SCT410.3 under the tree.
Awesome! Congrats!


MERRY CHRISTMAS EVERYONE! :-D
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Old 12-27-2015, 08:00 AM   #2774
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So what are y'all's thoughts on running a 2-pole 550? Last Tekno I had started with a Pro4 4600 and then a 4700 Hobbywing. Thought I had read of some liking a 2-pole 550 when running on less than high bite but also being easier on the batteries. Picking up a 4500 SMC already but thinking a 2-pole might be worth a look.
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Old 12-29-2015, 04:53 PM   #2775
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So what are y'all's thoughts on running a 2-pole 550? Last Tekno I had started with a Pro4 4600 and then a 4700 Hobbywing. Thought I had read of some liking a 2-pole 550 when running on less than high bite but also being easier on the batteries. Picking up a 4500 SMC already but thinking a 2-pole might be worth a look.
A 550 2 pole motor will not generate as much torque as a 540 4 pole or 550 4 pole. However the top end should be similar. It won't be a bad idea to try out but you won't have as much grunt on the bottom end. I personally prefer 550 4 pole motors as they run cooler and have more power but if you want a smoother motor a 550 2pole motor or the tekin pro 2 would be a good choice.
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