Originally Posted by Matthew_Armeni

First, if you have other springs to choose from, I would run (depending on how heavy your truck is) Pink/Pink or Black/Black F/R and move the front shocks in on the arms front and rear and all the way out on the tower front and rear. The green springs are too stiff I feel and probably felt good because of amount of antisquat. If you don't have other springs still move the shocks and set your ride height pretty much as low as low as you can, 22mm is the lowest I've had success with. Change your front kickup to 8 degrees by running the A block single dot down and the B block single dot up. While this will stop weight transfer into a corner (potentially taking away steering) it gives a very direct feel to the steering and makes the front tires "bite" a little better into the turns. You'll have to readjust your bumpsteer after this change. For the front camber link we've pretty much gone to always running the A position on the hub and either the 4 or 5 position on the tower depending on the amount of entry steering we need. The short link makes the truck land jumps really well. Run the 4 spot for a very controllable car on entry and if you need more steering into the turn run the 5. If you run the 5 spot you might want to run slightly less static camber and if you run the 4 you might want to run a little more due to the difference in their camber gains. We always start with about 1-2 degrees in the front, more camber usually gives more steering.
In the rear I usually run the 6/C position but if I need a little more corner entry steering or more on power rear traction I go to 6/B. Wheelbase is an easy change to make that can have an effect on on and off power traction as well. Longer wheelbase is usually more stable into a turn and when landing jumps but can be a little looser on power because there's less dogbone angle. Shorter is basically the opposite. I play with this pretty often because it's an easy change. Toe will change your wheelbase as well so it can have similar effects.
Ackermann will change your steering (obviously ), forward is usually smoother and will not steer as much off power and off center and will steer more on power. Rearward, more off power and off center and more pushy on power. I'm usually in the middle.
Droop can change the car a lot but honestly I never change mine. Limiting droop basically limits weight transfer on and off power and through turns. I run max droop (I don't even have the screws in my arms) and never play with it. Not the best advice I know but I drive my cars better with full droop. I have tested it a lot over the years and that's my personal preference.
Lastly (at least for this post, it's now a lot longer than I had planned) is swaybars. Basically the thinner the swaybar the more traction that end of the car has into and through a turn. So if you need more steering go thinner in the front or thicker on the back. If the front pushes through the turn go thinner in the front. If the car initiates the turn well but the rear sticks really well and can't rotate try thicker in the rear.

Finally, everyone drives a little differently. If something I've said here doesn't work for you (not Dragonfueled specifically, but anyone reading this) that's fine. Just remember what the change did to your car. And try to remember it in terms of on power, off power, into and out of turns so the next time you need to make a change to your car you'll know which way to go. Also, don't be afraid to make changes! It takes no time at all to swap out a pill, change a camber link, move a shock, change ride height, etc. The worst thing that happens is you don't like the way the car feels and you have to go back to where it was.

Originally Posted by mikeinsocal

Sounds like someone has been reading the "secret" tekno setup guide haha
Thanx for the priceless info matthew, as dragonfueled said, have to take it one bit at a time to really let it all sink in. If this is the kind of stuff that will be in the guide I'm gonna have a lot of homework. Any word on when it will be officially released? And thanx again.

Originally Posted by rcgod

Adding washers under the inner or outer ball stud will increase bump out.

Originally Posted by jjl1

Sorry I am a little slow but it seems more complicated than that. So no washers is 0 bump steer? What about the ball stud orientation. There seems to be a Lot of variables according to the setup sheets but they are not quantified.
For example I notice Lutz changed the bump from his Barnstormers to Gas Champs setup but what are the values?

Originally Posted by jjl1

Sorry I am a little slow but it seems more complicated than that. So no washers is 0 bump steer? What about the ball stud orientation. There seems to be a Lot of variables according to the setup sheets but they are not quantified.
For example I notice Lutz changed the bump from his Barnstormers to Gas Champs setup but what are the values?

Originally Posted by Matthew_Armeni

This is the kind of stuff that will be in the guide. The guide is getting close, we've had to go to the track a few times to confirm some setup theories and also figure out the best way to explain them. We've had to really break down what is happening to the car when a given setup is on there and more importantly when it's happening to make sure we don't give the wrong info.

Originally Posted by Lowe's48

Coming from a Losi scte of 2 years , now 5 months in to my 410.3 with out knowing about the steering stop screws. (thanks to this wonderful forum)
Now that i have them stop screws in, let me to realize that i have been chasing the wrong issues all this time. But the good news is i'm now on the right track.Just a few more test and set up change and it'll be dialed.
And yes the guide would be a wonderful tool for sure

Originally Posted by raved007

Same here first time to run with steering stop 1mm washer got Top qualifier and win in amain.

Originally Posted by ResultsRC

Im having a issue with the front diff,the front passenger side wheel is spinning much faster and swelling the tire on that side at wot when lifted off the ground,looks like it may be swelling more even under a load down the strighrt away, bearings are fine and diff feels smooth? what could cause this?
also im hearing when their is a big diff on the amount of steering stop washers you would want to run between the tekno truck and buggy conversion or the old car conversion? Im running the 410.3 as a elight and dont really like the steering stop screws even with no washers,Im thinking on grinding the tip of them down a bit,with out them at all the servo looses leverage on the inside wheel and it flops it turns.

Originally Posted by rcgod

Take the front end apart and check each bearing individually. Then put the driveshafts in the car and spin them by hand and make sure they are both free and smooth.

Also take the diff apart and make sure the shims are behind the large gears and not bound up. Spin each outdrive by hand and make sure they have the same resistance without the spider gears in the diff.

Originally Posted by ResultsRC

Im having a issue with the front diff,the front passenger side wheel is spinning much faster and swelling the tire on that side at wot when lifted off the ground,looks like it may be swelling more even under a load down the strighrt away, bearings are fine and diff feels smooth? what could cause this?

Originally Posted by rcgod

Take the front end apart and check each bearing individually. Then put the driveshafts in the car and spin them by hand and make sure they are both free and smooth.

Also take the diff apart and make sure the shims are behind the large gears and not bound up. Spin each outdrive by hand and make sure they have the same resistance without the spider gears in the diff.

Originally Posted by Lowe's48

If everything's ok then .....on the stand install the front wheels and check for wheel binding.

Originally Posted by ResultsRC

also im hearing when their is a big diff on the amount of steering stop washers you would want to run between the tekno truck and buggy conversion or the old car conversion? Im running the 410.3 as a elight and dont really like the steering stop screws even with no washers,Im thinking on grinding the tip of them down a bit,with out them at all the servo looses leverage on the inside wheel and it flops it turns.

Originally Posted by Matthew_Armeni

I understand why you would want to run no washers but unless your track only has jumps that launch straight and land straight and the only turns are tight 180's your truck will be faster and more consistent with more washers. Even if that's your track there are other ways to obtain steering. Believe me, it took awhile for us to convince all the drivers on the team (including a pro or two) to add more washers. No one likes the idea of limiting steering. But the results of doing this have been proven over and over. My advice for everyone is to run the truck with 4 washers and then tune in more steering other ways.