219LikesTekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
09-05-2022, 08:19 AM - Wikipost
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Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!
7.26.17 - BB In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts: TKR6106 Orange LF Springs TKR6114 Green LF Springs TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8702 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm) TKR8104 .4 bellcranks TKR8100 .4 ackerman TKR5545B HRC Hubs You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite) What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit? None are required but we recommend the following: TKR5161 – V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace “A” block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes. TKR5163 – V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace “C” block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes. TKR5545B – HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit. TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set TiNi Shock Shafts -TKR6004T (front) -TKR6017T (rear) What spare parts should I keep on hand? TKR5020 – Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear) TKR5516 – Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 – Rear Suspension Arms TKR5542 – Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles TKR6009 – Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks) Tips and Tricks List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc. Use steering stops/limiter washers... more info here. Setup Sheets: Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.   Hinge Pin Insert Chart:  Warranty Policy: Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered! Piston Drills: Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following: GMK Supply Piston Drill Set 16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.   
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11-07-2015, 08:34 AM
#2521
SMC motor and batteries are awesome in this truck!
11-07-2015, 09:53 AM
#2522
Just finished reading the whole thread. 
If I decide to get a new short course, it's definitely going to be this one. And thanks to this thread I now know what to look for and what options to get (depending on how much I'm willing to spend. 
Block A is the one that breaks (according to the posts here).
IIRC it was no program, just a PDF setup guide, just like the Hudy setup book. Haven't seen it myself though.
If I decide to get a new short course, it's definitely going to be this one. And thanks to this thread I now know what to look for and what options to get (depending on how much I'm willing to spend. IIRC it was no program, just a PDF setup guide, just like the Hudy setup book. Haven't seen it myself though.
11-07-2015, 11:44 AM
#2523
Do you need a spare set of a-arms, hubs, spindle steering for this thing?
Last edited by 8ight-e; 11-07-2015 at 06:44 PM.
11-07-2015, 07:41 PM
#2528
To answer a few of the prior topics.
1) SMC Motor - I had a hand in designing it. It has a lot of torque, but can run a little warm (not super hot though). However, it cools off WAY better than most other motors with just a simple heat sink, as the can is flat instead of ridged, allowing for all of the heat sink to make good contact and work the most efficiently. It was designed to be the closest to the HobbyWing 4700 in performance as could be done in a ROAR legal 540 can length. I run both motors and like them both.
2) The Tekno Setup Guide isn't yet ready for public consumption (as posted by Tekno in the past), and is still being worked on. It had gotten leaked before it was ready.
3) The PC program people may be thinking of is "RC Crew Chief", which got a section for handling the new Tekno V2 hinge pin holders added to it. I haven't used it, but most folks who do seem to like it.
4) The most important hinge pin blocks to get are the "A" and "C" blocks (front end of both the front and rear). The "A" one is for durability, and the "C" one is to drop the inserts to make setup easier, with less anti-squat and the ability to run a roller rear roll center and not force lots of anti-squat to do so.
5) Spares are generally not needed as it is a pretty durable vehicle. That being said, the most common bits to break (beyond the A block) are the same as on most vehicles. A horrible horrible crash can damage the arms, hinge pins, spindles, spindle carriers, and stub axles. In practice, this is fairly seldom, but those are still probably the most common of the broken parts. We have a nickname for the Tekno SC trucks though...Tekno Tankos. It was coined by several of the rookies that picked them up when they didn't break them, even after hitting each other full speed in opposite directions (jumping into the straight...repeatedly...on one of the layouts).
1) SMC Motor - I had a hand in designing it. It has a lot of torque, but can run a little warm (not super hot though). However, it cools off WAY better than most other motors with just a simple heat sink, as the can is flat instead of ridged, allowing for all of the heat sink to make good contact and work the most efficiently. It was designed to be the closest to the HobbyWing 4700 in performance as could be done in a ROAR legal 540 can length. I run both motors and like them both.
2) The Tekno Setup Guide isn't yet ready for public consumption (as posted by Tekno in the past), and is still being worked on. It had gotten leaked before it was ready.
3) The PC program people may be thinking of is "RC Crew Chief", which got a section for handling the new Tekno V2 hinge pin holders added to it. I haven't used it, but most folks who do seem to like it.
4) The most important hinge pin blocks to get are the "A" and "C" blocks (front end of both the front and rear). The "A" one is for durability, and the "C" one is to drop the inserts to make setup easier, with less anti-squat and the ability to run a roller rear roll center and not force lots of anti-squat to do so.
5) Spares are generally not needed as it is a pretty durable vehicle. That being said, the most common bits to break (beyond the A block) are the same as on most vehicles. A horrible horrible crash can damage the arms, hinge pins, spindles, spindle carriers, and stub axles. In practice, this is fairly seldom, but those are still probably the most common of the broken parts. We have a nickname for the Tekno SC trucks though...Tekno Tankos. It was coined by several of the rookies that picked them up when they didn't break them, even after hitting each other full speed in opposite directions (jumping into the straight...repeatedly...on one of the layouts).
11-08-2015, 11:00 AM
#2529
I use a rx8 gen2 with a SMC 6500 2s pack. Their batteries are a great deal too. I just like to run what works well and for the time being, I love it.
11-08-2015, 11:07 AM
#2530
WOW, 140 max in a 10 minute main with a 19T on a 4500kv motor? Motor runs really cool apparently, or u need to give it some throttle!
I have heard good things about that motor and the price is great, might try one but for me its hard to beat the Hobbywing Xerun 4000/4700kv in these trucks.
I have heard good things about that motor and the price is great, might try one but for me its hard to beat the Hobbywing Xerun 4000/4700kv in these trucks.
11-08-2015, 12:50 PM
#2531
I'm also running the SMC motor & battery and RX8 Gen2 combo myself. The only problem I ran into was with the sensor wire plugged into either port on the motor. There was a very bad hesitation off idle (0 rpm). Wasn't cogging or anything, just a slow 'ramp' up. I tried everything possible on the RX8 to no avail, new sensor wires, etc. However once I disconnected the sensor wire, she came to life. So smooth, I can't tell its sensorless anyway, so I'm just leaving it.
11-08-2015, 03:55 PM
#2532
Played with the built in steering stops today at the track, try'd 2-3 and 4 washers, 4 worked best for me. Really calmed down the twitchyness of the truck and simply made it easier to drive and more predictable. I'm running on a fairly large indoor with medium to high grip. For you guys that haven't try'd it do yourself a favor and give it a go, its easy to play with and makes a big difference. Going to do it on my Eb48SL as well.
11-08-2015, 04:05 PM
#2533
Tech Master
iTrader: (36)
Played with the built in steering stops today at the track, try'd 2-3 and 4 washers, 4 worked best for me. Really calmed down the twitchyness of the truck and simply made it easier to drive and more predictable. I'm running on a fairly large indoor with medium to high grip. For you guys that haven't try'd it do yourself a favor and give it a go, its easy to play with and makes a big difference. Going to do it on my Eb48SL as well.
11-08-2015, 04:42 PM
#2535
Download the manual for the eb48.3 and scroll down to bag I, that will show you what you need to know.
http://www.teknorc.com/tekno5/wp-con...structions.pdf
http://www.teknorc.com/tekno5/wp-con...structions.pdf