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Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread

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Old 09-05-2022, 08:19 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
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Last edit by: rustyus
Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!

7.26.17 - BB
In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts:
TKR6106 Orange LF Springs
TKR6114 Green LF Springs
TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8702 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps
TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs
TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm)
TKR8104 .4 bellcranks
TKR8100 .4 ackerman
TKR5545B HRC Hubs
You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite)

What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

TKR5161 – V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace “A” block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5163 – V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace “C” block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5545B – HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6004T (front)
-TKR6017T (rear)


What spare parts should I keep on hand?
TKR5020 – Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR5516 – Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 – Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5542 – Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles
TKR6009 – Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Use steering stops/limiter washers... more info here.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.




Hinge Pin Insert Chart:

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.





















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Old 11-12-2015, 06:32 AM
  #2551  
mkl
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I use the Tekno wheel nuts which seem to have nice knurling and appear to be high quality. Never had a problem loosing a wheel or even a nut loosening. After a run all nuts are still secure. Had rounding issues when I had a SCTE as well. I think it may have to with the surface area of the hex on the axle and the mating hex in the wheel. Maybe I just crash too much and it stresses the wheel and when I get back on the gas, it can slip. Who knows? 17mm seems to be a good experiment.
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Old 11-12-2015, 10:33 AM
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Originally Posted by stelio279
The issue with wheels stripping might not be a hex size or even a nut tightness issue, but a nut QUALITY issue. I recently lost a wheel on a qualifier on my SCTE, re-tightening the heck out of it, and then lost the same wheel next heat. I switched out all my wheel nuts to Durango serrated nuts. Amazing quality, decent price. Never had a problem since.
Might be the case. I have always used the stock nuts and never seemed to have a problem. But with that being said, if I where to buy after market variants, I would prolly go for nice wide flange serrated types.
Shame there is such a small market for 5mm versions like the tekno uses.
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Old 11-12-2015, 02:31 PM
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May have missed it but what is the low down on the "drilled extra row" on a few of the setup sheets out there from Ryan & Joe's setups.. I know they don't run these much... are there some really tuned setups for a hard packed w/ loom and a good base for clay?

Also has anyone tried the carbon eb48 towers the holes are slightly higher than the stock .3 positions.. would this give a mimic to the 'extra row'

Thanks,
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Old 11-12-2015, 03:03 PM
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What cutouts would you guys recommend for the jconcepts f250 body besides the spoiler to start with?
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Old 11-13-2015, 08:37 AM
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Originally Posted by 8ight-e
May have missed it but what is the low down on the "drilled extra row" on a few of the setup sheets out there from Ryan & Joe's setups.. I know they don't run these much... are there some really tuned setups for a hard packed w/ loom and a good base for clay?

Also has anyone tried the carbon eb48 towers the holes are slightly higher than the stock .3 positions.. would this give a mimic to the 'extra row'

Thanks,
The extra row being referred to was for camber link positions, not shock positions. They drilled out an extra row of holes towards the middle to do testing with really long links. The end result of the testing is that the recommendation for most to start with is short links up front and medium length links in back (neither of which require the extra row of holes).
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Old 11-13-2015, 07:30 PM
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So in what way or when should a person start to consider the longer links with the change in roll center with the second row your talking of?

Off topic-but cool!
Was playing with the fresh built lasersaur and cut and etched these yesterday out of leather.

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Old 11-13-2015, 08:12 PM
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Lasersaur?
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Old 11-14-2015, 09:07 AM
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Quick question

I just purchased the 410.3 should be here next week, what are items you guys would suggest to upgrade immediately truck parts wise? I've been reading that the hexes are sensitive to over tightening is that something that I can upgrade? Just looking to make this thing as good as possible before I run into issues at the track.

Also I'm running a super high bite track what would be correct oil weights for my difs and in what order?

Any other suggestions would also be greatly appreciated, I don't know anything about shortcourse 4x4
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Old 11-14-2015, 09:22 AM
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Originally Posted by LiL CeeZ
Quick question

I just purchased the 410.3 should be here next week, what are items you guys would suggest to upgrade immediately truck parts wise? I've been reading that the hexes are sensitive to over tightening is that something that I can upgrade? Just looking to make this thing as good as possible before I run into issues at the track.

Also I'm running a super high bite track what would be correct oil weights for my difs and in what order?

Any other suggestions would also be greatly appreciated, I don't know anything about shortcourse 4x4
IMO the only must haves is the alum servo horn and the upgraded aluminum wheel hex's. The aluminum A-B-C-D blocks are nice to have and I really think the CNC machined shock parts help in the smoothness of the shock package. Truck is a tank, doesn't need much and the wear is VERY good on everything from what I see. Stock kit setup is a decent place to start at for indoor high bite.
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Old 11-14-2015, 09:52 AM
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Originally Posted by LiL CeeZ
Quick question

I just purchased the 410.3 should be here next week, what are items you guys would suggest to upgrade immediately truck parts wise? I've been reading that the hexes are sensitive to over tightening is that something that I can upgrade? Just looking to make this thing as good as possible before I run into issues at the track.

Also I'm running a super high bite track what would be correct oil weights for my difs and in what order?

Any other suggestions would also be greatly appreciated, I don't know anything about shortcourse 4x4
Servo horn is the only absolutely necessary upgrade you'll need. After that I'd get the aluminum A and C blocks. They're both great durability upgrades and the aluminum C block allows a lower RC and antisquat settings.
The metallurgy hexes were over hardened on the first batch and had a tendency to crack when the setscrew was tightened down, all current kits should be fine.
For your diffs I'd try 10-10-7 , F-C-R. That's what I'm currently running in my SC and SL at my local indoor clay track.
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Old 11-14-2015, 10:35 AM
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Originally Posted by LiL CeeZ
Quick question

I just purchased the 410.3 should be here next week, what are items you guys would suggest to upgrade immediately truck parts wise? I've been reading that the hexes are sensitive to over tightening is that something that I can upgrade? Just looking to make this thing as good as possible before I run into issues at the track.

Also I'm running a super high bite track what would be correct oil weights for my difs and in what order?

Any other suggestions would also be greatly appreciated, I don't know anything about shortcourse 4x4
After building the kit,, the cnc shock insert package and a good 6 hole piston is first need, then just grab the eb48.3 alum hangers off ebay,, think I paid 35 for all four, but that can be hit or miss. The .3 kits come with aluminum hex's, not sure what that guy is talking about.. and aluminum servo horns are a given.. in any vehicle.
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Old 11-14-2015, 10:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Dan.J
IMO the only must haves is the alum servo horn and the upgraded aluminum wheel hex's. The aluminum A-B-C-D blocks are nice to have and I really think the CNC machined shock parts help in the smoothness of the shock package. Truck is a tank, doesn't need much and the wear is VERY good on everything from what I see. Stock kit setup is a decent place to start at for indoor high bite.
Originally Posted by Matthew_Armeni
Servo horn is the only absolutely necessary upgrade you'll need. After that I'd get the aluminum A and C blocks. They're both great durability upgrades and the aluminum C block allows a lower RC and antisquat settings.
The metallurgy hexes were over hardened on the first batch and had a tendency to crack when the setscrew was tightened down, all current kits should be fine.
For your diffs I'd try 10-10-7 , F-C-R. That's what I'm currently running in my SC and SL at my local indoor clay track.
Originally Posted by 8ight-e
After building the kit,, the cnc shock insert package and a good 6 hole piston is first need, then just grab the eb48.3 alum hangers off ebay,, think I paid 35 for all four, but that can be hit or miss. The .3 kits come with aluminum hex's, not sure what that guy is talking about.. and aluminum servo horns are a given.. in any vehicle.

Hey guys I really appreciate the feedback. I don't want to get it all tricked out right away I just want to avoid any potential problem areas from the start. I've been reading through this thread and I saw the talk about the wheel hexes so that's why i asked about that. Just want the truck to be solid and steady as we have a pretty good shortcourse turnout at my local track-Coyote Hobbies. All and any info is highly appreciated thanks again
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Old 11-14-2015, 11:40 AM
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Originally Posted by LiL CeeZ
Hey guys I really appreciate the feedback. I don't want to get it all tricked out right away I just want to avoid any potential problem areas from the start. I've been reading through this thread and I saw the talk about the wheel hexes so that's why i asked about that. Just want the truck to be solid and steady as we have a pretty good shortcourse turnout at my local track-Coyote Hobbies. All and any info is highly appreciated thanks again
I listened and bought before I even started the kit so I have an extra set of alum hex's to sell as they are alum in the .3 kit and honestly those plastic hangers are pretty darn beefy, I already ordered the alum ones and the alum is super nice.. but if you don't crash a lot or don't have any really ridiculous features on your track those plastics should be good enough,, and for $10 you can keep a spare set in the box. The shock parts are must do's in my book... maybe nice to have yellow springs as well *f/r
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Old 11-14-2015, 01:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Rob4607
Lasersaur?
It's an (open source) home built 100 wat co2 laser cutter. Runs with g-code inputs and uses SVG files from any vector program. Capable of cutting upto 3/4 plywood or other materials except metal. But it can etch metal and anything really.

Lasersaur materials rundown
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Old 11-15-2015, 02:48 PM
  #2565  
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anybody try these? http://www.prolineracing.com/accesso...heel-adapters/
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