kuruption

iTrader: (24)

Thanks... thought I saw it somewhere...

kuruption

iTrader: (24)

Alright, I updated the first page with the hex information, along with including size comparisons with the Exotek hexes, and notes from Exotek's site on which rims will give what track widths.

Getting a list of all wheel offsets by all manufacturers will be difficult, so I'm not sure it's even worth attempting. I think it's safe to say that if you want the same track width as the 14mm w/ XRAY wheels, you should get the 12mm +0.75mm hexes with XRAY wheels (per Bent's measurements). Your mileage may vary otherwise.

Keep in mind you can still use the pills to change your overall track width, although this will affect other things on the car, too, so keep that in mind.

rcgod

iTrader: (33)

What arm mount and shock positions do you recommend? Ran my 16 today on low bite with ball diffs and it definitely didn't feel as good as my 15 did. Going to order the med flex parts this week.

DIRT DIGGER

iTrader: (4)

hello all im hoping i can get some response's please. i am running a d413 now and not too happy with it. im thinking about getting the xray but curious how it does on med bite indoor small track. please help. thanks

STLNLST

iTrader: (32)

Low/med bite indoor clay/dirt track the 15 is the King but a couple of guys now have the 16 and are getting their legs under the car. I myself have the D413 and will be switching.

gticlay

iTrader: (14)

Looks good, thanks for updating!

BentKa

Remember when comparing the '15 to the '16 that one has medium chassis braces and side guards ('15) and the other comes with the hard parts ('16).

There's a huge difference on these two setups.

For low to medium grip dirt/clay we always use these parts on the '16:

#361265 Medium side guards
#361295 Medium rear chassis brace
#361294 Medium front chassis brace
#368284 1 dot rear springs
#368183 1 dot front springs

With these parts the '16 XB4 excels on low to medium grip just as much as it does on high grip carpet and astro

This also gets rid of the twitchiness many feel that the '16 has running the hard parts and stock springs on lower grip tracks.

If running the ball diffs front and rear for really low grip we always use the stock slipper at loosest setting.

If running center diff with minimum 500.000 cst we usually run 5/3 for the front and rear diffs (and even 3/2 in blown out conditions).

For low grip we also unscrew the shock rod ends 2-3 full turns to add droop.

We usually start with the shocks middle on tower and inside on arm, but also use middle/outside a lot (less twitchy/more stable).

For the hinge pin inserts we primarily use the 1 degree pills on the inside.

Down for more roll and up for less roll depending on track conditions.

Bent

Vincent_Diesel

iTrader: (2)

I just switched from a D413 and just finished my 2016 build. From a build process here is what I noticed right off the bat.

XB4 plastics are way harder especially in the arms. I was always worried about stripping parts on the D413, especially after multiple adjustments like lower shock holes. Also the flex on the D413 was very noticeable which probably explains why the D413 was so tough.

Probably goes without saying but the tolerances are much tighter on the XB4. No need to "shim the slop out" like the D413. These tolerances are up there like my Kyosho's. Although notice some slop on the XB4 gear diffs, but I have read NOT to shim because X-Ray accounts for heat expansion.

Ball cups on the XB4 may be the most difficult to snap on from all the builds I've done. I hope this is a good thing. No wonder there are holes for ball stud removal.

Finally, pulling out differentials on the XB4 is easy breasy. Wow. Reminds of the DEX410 in terms of simplicity. Try that on the D413.

Last words. On low to medium bite indoor clay the D413 manages to find excellent traction. My theory is due to the higher flex by overall design. On astro the D413 was just too difficult to drive for me, so I switched, way too squirrely and unpredictable on astro. Hopefully this changes for me with the XB4.

I'm waiting for my body to come back from the painter, and XB4 will be put to the test on Astro. I sure hope it delivers. This is my first X-Ray and my gut tells me they have a history developing products for higher bite surfaces. Overall I enjoyed putting it together.

rcgod

iTrader: (33)

Thanks for the info BentKa.

randy0025

iTrader: (11)

thanks for your work on this and bent aswell. so just so i am understanding this right, its both .75 xray hexs for the front and rear correct. and if i am understanding the chart right using the exotek hexs the fronts are close with 5mm but the rears with 7.5 are way off, about 3mm off right?? thanks again guys

randy0025

iTrader: (11)

the xray is way way better in my opinion. I had the d413 and the 15spec at the same time as I like to have a backup rtr wheeler, and the d413 was no where near the xray. I even had the Schelle Chassis and it still didnt help. when you build your 1st xray you will see how much better the plastic, carbon fiber, and hudy steel is then the HB stuff. Not to mention the HB sucks to work on, 4 screws and you have the center diffs out of the xray .
also just FYI I now have the 16spec and its so much better then my 15spec was. it did take time to get it this way but I wouldnt trade it for anything out there

LAGuy

iTrader: (5)

Bent had posted track widths based on Xray hexes and 12mm wheels. He’s also posted hex widths in the XB2 forum. That’s been incredibly helpful! As well as all your other setup help. Thanks Bent!

I was in a similar situation when I purchase my ’15 followed by my ’16. What wheels and hexes can I use?

I race on a low to medium outdoor dirt track and wanted to be able to match team widths while I learned how to setup this buggy. No one at my track has an XB4 but me, so I was an island. So I just measured a few wheels at the hobby shop. My caliper makes a small hole in the back of the package and the owner didn’t mind. Now I just use my ruler to measure new wheels and to establish a baseline and adjust from there. I will use different hexes and/or 0.5mm axle shims to adjust.

This is what I have so far:

Xray 14mm Wheels – Offsets: Front - 22mm / Rear - 24.5mm (Haven’t received my 12mm Xray wheels yet, they’re back ordered)

Kyosho 56mm Flush 4wd Front Wheel (ZX5 SP & FS) (W5201) - 24.5mm Offset (HUGE offset! Makes the front-end very narrow)

Proline 2.2" Rears (#2736) - 26mm Offset

DE Racing Speedline Buggy Wheels:

Front - DER-SB-K40 (Laser ZX-5) – 22mm (Same!)
Rear - DER-SB-ARO (B4.2/B44.2/TLR22) - 26mm (This is a flush wheel)
Rear - DER-SB-KRO (Kyosho RB6/ ZX-5) - 26mm (This wheel has a coned in exterior. Lots of axle thread to work with)

I use DE ZX-5 fronts with Exotec 5.5 hexes and a 0.5mm shim on each wheel and DE DER-SB-ARO on the rear with Exotec 7mm for a 244mm front & 243mm rear. Buggy is starting to work decent. I ordered all the medium parts to get a bit more mechanical grip/stability. If you want to match what Bent’s posted, use 9mm rears (247mm) & add an additional 0.5mm shim in front (245mm).

XB4 is a great car. Quality and durability are fantastic! With that said, out of the box, it is more of a high grip car. Ordering all the medium parts in addition to the center shafts to move the motor rear ward makes it more of a “Dirt Version”. Maybe Xray wasn’t expecting how popular their wheeler would be with guys like me running outdoor loose dirt. But they seem to have applied this lesson with the XB2 and releasing two versions.

I expect the XB4 ’17 or ’18 will come in two versions as well or simply include the medium and hard pieces (Like the XB2 Carpet Car) as well as the additional driveshaft’s.

gticlay

iTrader: (14)

Bodies are READY!

UK.hardcore

How are you guys experiencing drivetrain wear? Do you think it's too high?

suby723

iTrader: (21)

On my 14 and 15 I went an entire year without replacing worn shafts or outdrives.