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Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread

12-21-2016, 08:46 AM - Wikipost

R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread

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Last edit by: tobamiester

RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:

Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:

Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:

MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
- MM3 bulkhead
- Laydown bulkhead
- Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):

Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
- transmission cases
- spacers
- caps
- plastic FR & RR suspension hangers
Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):

Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
- transmission cases
- spacers
- caps
- required extra hardware
- pastic FR suspension hanger
40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:

Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:

Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0°/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).

Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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11-20-2013, 11:02 AM

#8716

motor home

Tech Rookie

Join Date: Oct 2012

Location: Praha, Czech

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Quote:

Originally Posted by KalEl63

Well that throws my 2.5mm out and means 1.5mm would give about .25 pro squat

K King Anti squat is where the front hanger is higher than the rear hanger and Pro is where the rear hanger is higher than the front hanger

Where are these images to see?

11-20-2013, 11:47 AM

#8717

Kraig

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Quote:

Originally Posted by motor home

Where are these images to see?

In this post, http://www.rctech.net/forum/12734506-post8694.html

or click here.

11-20-2013, 01:18 PM

#8718

KalEl63

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Quote:

Originally Posted by FallenAllDay

Hey guys, ive bought an rb6 and have almost finished the build. Do you guys actually grease the cvd end into the diff outdrive? Wouldnt that just attract dirt and promote wear?? And also in the kits instructions it doesnt say what shock oils run front or rear!? Do you have a base line starting point for me?? The info is much appreciated, im a nitro dude and this is my first electric kit im just wanting to do it right.

I started with 30Wt in the front and 27.5Wt in the rear but I'm now running 32.5Wt in the front with the GHEA 4x1.3mm pistons and like it.

11-20-2013, 03:55 PM

#8719

jamesbernatchez

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My two. Just got the new blue one tonight as setup currently:

Blue:
RS Pro
17.5 Tekin Gen 1
Protek 230T servo
Shorty setup
MyLaps

Black:
RS Gen 1
Tekin 7.5 Gen 2
STRC aluminum rear hubs
Jconcepts front hinge pin brace
Exotek steering rack
Savox 1257
MyLaps

11-20-2013, 04:27 PM

#8720

skengines

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Location: SoCal

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Do I sense a RB6 WC coming soon?

11-20-2013, 04:46 PM

#8721

Holmberg418

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Quote:

Originally Posted by skengines

Do I sense a RB6 WC coming soon?

No you don't. Why would they come out with one. There is nothing different besides some aluminum option parts

11-20-2013, 05:35 PM

#8722

E73

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I'm thinking a SCT is next in line….…which is no good because I will have to buy it.

11-20-2013, 05:52 PM

#8723

mlinder

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Hello!

I wish to try running my RB6 in stock class. It was suggested to run an AVID 69 tooth spur and 33 tooth pinion. So upon install, the gears ( I think the pinion) rub on the gear cover. Is there a different gear cover available? Run without (yikes), or change to a different gear ratio setup?

Sorry noob beginner stock racer here.

Thanks

Mark

11-20-2013, 06:03 PM

#8724

E73

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Quote:

Originally Posted by mlinder

I run 69/31 and it has enough speed and torque for stock 17.5 class and does not rub the cover. Gearing such as you are increases top speed but reduces acceleration (torque) for the infield. Since only a small amount of time is spent on the straight, I suggest you gear down. Doing so will also reduce the temperature of the motor. My .02.

11-20-2013, 06:30 PM

#8725

mlinder

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73,

Thanks for your reply. Makes a lot of sense. I will change the gearing first.

Mark

11-20-2013, 08:18 PM

#8726

Kraig

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Quote:

Originally Posted by mlinder

There is one spot on the gear cover that rubs the gear if I remember correctly. What I did is I took a silver sharpie and colored where the gear cover would cover the pinion gear. I then installed it, turned on the car and gave the throttle a couple of short blips. I then removed the gear cover and I could see where the gear wore the silver sharpie away. I then to a sanding drum on the dremel and lightly went over that area of the cover. I repeated that process a couple of times until the gear didn't rub the cover anymore.

11-20-2013, 10:31 PM

#8727

Speedychris22

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Quick question, on a low grip bumpy track should I stick the regular rear arms or try the 521-1 arms? I'm running rear motor

11-21-2013, 12:15 AM

#8728

Rcdudes3475

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Speedychris22

Quick question, on a low grip bumpy track should I stick the regular rear arms or try the 521-1 arms? I'm running rear motor

I've got the same question except I'm running mid-ship...What do the arms do exactly? and do you have to have anything for them to be compatible?

11-21-2013, 07:46 AM

#8729

Jochim_18

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Quote:

Originally Posted by MikeXray

Thanks for the list, I have to do more testing with the rear link. In onroad I would do like you said and lengthen, raise it, but so far it seems that lower/shorter has produced more rotation on my car. I do feel that the weight might be transferring too fast, or possibly not enough right now which is why the car gets into the corner well, but then struggles.

Longer link = lower roll center (It will give you more traction overall but you will loose some steering)

Shorter link = Higher roll center (cars is more reactive and rotates better)

Roll center has big impact on how you want the buggy to react in certain section of the track. "You add some you loose some" when changing your roll center. Rule of thumb you want your front and rear roll center as close as possible to have a good balance car...