172LikesKyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
12-21-2016, 08:46 AM - Wikipost
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10-08-2012, 09:34 AM
#1218
why keep it a secret????
please post for everyone
please post for everyone
10-08-2012, 09:47 AM
#1219
Love the attention to detail. 
I know the 22 and RB6 are 2 different animals, but I have been noticing folks have been mounting the battery (fullsize) a lot more forward than what can be done in the 22. The 22 wheelbase is 286mm and RB6 is 285mm.
Curious the results with this configuration. Lot of steering? Less traction?
I know the 22 and RB6 are 2 different animals, but I have been noticing folks have been mounting the battery (fullsize) a lot more forward than what can be done in the 22. The 22 wheelbase is 286mm and RB6 is 285mm.
Curious the results with this configuration. Lot of steering? Less traction?
I wouldn't compare "perceived" battery placement between the two cars directly... two different cars, two different static weight bias, two different designs. Overall though, up to a certain point, whichever end has more weight, will have more traction.
10-08-2012, 10:10 AM
#1220
Thanks... Well, this battery isn't mounted a lot more forward... this is actually the standard full sized lipo mounting position for the RB6. How the RB6 drives compared to the 22? Not sure... i don't have any wheel time with my RB6. But I can tell you that I am not a fan of how the 22 drives in ANY configuration... personal preference thing.
I wouldn't compare "perceived" battery placement between the two cars directly... two different cars, two different static weight bias, two different designs. Overall though, up to a certain point, whichever end has more weight, will have more traction.
I wouldn't compare "perceived" battery placement between the two cars directly... two different cars, two different static weight bias, two different designs. Overall though, up to a certain point, whichever end has more weight, will have more traction.
obviously according to ROAR (IFMAR?) the car has to be built to take the long sticks but in offroad less and less are in buggies, but the diesigners at Kyosho know its better with the short pack
10-08-2012, 10:34 AM
#1221
looking at your picture and looking at the 22 with a full sized lipo, the rb6 does have the full sized lipo further forward, but i wonder if that is because the RB6 is 100% built to run the shorty, i doubt we'll see too many, if any pros running the long batts (the Orion WTS counts as a shorty IMO).
obviously according to ROAR (IFMAR?) the car has to be built to take the long sticks but in offroad less and less are in buggies, but the diesigners at Kyosho know its better with the short pack
obviously according to ROAR (IFMAR?) the car has to be built to take the long sticks but in offroad less and less are in buggies, but the diesigners at Kyosho know its better with the short pack
10-08-2012, 10:39 AM
#1222
looking at your picture and looking at the 22 with a full sized lipo, the rb6 does have the full sized lipo further forward, but i wonder if that is because the RB6 is 100% built to run the shorty, i doubt we'll see too many, if any pros running the long batts (the Orion WTS counts as a shorty IMO).
obviously according to ROAR (IFMAR?) the car has to be built to take the long sticks but in offroad less and less are in buggies, but the diesigners at Kyosho know its better with the short pack
obviously according to ROAR (IFMAR?) the car has to be built to take the long sticks but in offroad less and less are in buggies, but the diesigners at Kyosho know its better with the short pack
Having said THAT, there is something else to consider, and that is pack voltage drop over time. If I am running a 6500 mah battery, and you are running a 4000 shorty... what will the voltage difference be between the two packs at the end of a heated run? I did quite a bit of testing between a 4000 shorty, and a 6500 full pack in 17.5 buggy (RB5 WC), and the car was noticeably faster towards the middle and end of the race with the larger MAH pack. The shorty would come off the track at like 7.7 volts, and the full pack was coming off at 8.15 with the same run. Having said that, the RB5 is a lighter car so the heavier pack was no big deal... on this car im not so sure yet. All I know is I hate the "feel" of the smaller mah packs because of how fast the voltage tanks compare to the larger MAH pack.
Sorry for the ramblings!
10-08-2012, 10:45 AM
#1223
no, that is useful information
Every time I've shed weight in previous cars I've run quicker. i like the car to feel a little on edge. as long as the bias is right.
when i do get to race, the tracks i run on are typically higher traction and the added weight isn't the most beneficial. i'm looking forward to testing a few different options
Every time I've shed weight in previous cars I've run quicker. i like the car to feel a little on edge. as long as the bias is right.
when i do get to race, the tracks i run on are typically higher traction and the added weight isn't the most beneficial. i'm looking forward to testing a few different options
10-08-2012, 11:01 AM
#1224
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Good info. Mine is going to be built to run a full size stick and ran that way and also ran with a shorty pack and tuned with different sized foams.
10-08-2012, 11:17 AM
#1225
Hi guys - I'm finding the information that everyone is posting to be very useful. Thank you for sharing. I'm currently in the process of building my RB6 and will be placing another order to finish off the buggy to my personal taste and liking. I came up with the following list of hopups and spares and would appreciate any feedback and advice. Some items are strictly for 'bling' purposes but I feel that the majority of items are critical upgrades and/or spares.
Kyosho Hopups
- Alum Battery Post Set
- Alum Rear Hub Carrier Set (0.5 degrees)
- Vented Slipper Disk Set
- Alum Wide Rear Outer Susp Holder
- Alum Wide Rear Inner Susp Holder
- 'Type B' Middle Suspension Arm Set
Kyosho Spares
- Front Susp Arms
- Rear Susp Arms
- Front Hub Carrier Set
- Front Knuckle Set
- Front Shock Stay
- Rear Shock Stay
- Crank Arm Set
- Front/Rear Inner Susp Shafts (44mm)
- Front Outer Susp Shaft (25mm)
3rd party Hopups/Hardware
- Blue shims/spacers (various sizes)
- Blue lock nuts (various sizes)
- Ceramic diff balls
- Lunsford 1 1/8" Ti Turnbuckles
- STRC Alum Front Bulkhead
In Tebo's ROAR Nats (WCRC) setup sheet, do you guys know what brand shock oil he is referencing? I know that they use Losi shock oil on their 1/8 buggies but didn't want to assume that was the case for 1/10.
Kyosho Hopups
- Alum Battery Post Set
- Alum Rear Hub Carrier Set (0.5 degrees)
- Vented Slipper Disk Set
- Alum Wide Rear Outer Susp Holder
- Alum Wide Rear Inner Susp Holder
- 'Type B' Middle Suspension Arm Set
Kyosho Spares
- Front Susp Arms
- Rear Susp Arms
- Front Hub Carrier Set
- Front Knuckle Set
- Front Shock Stay
- Rear Shock Stay
- Crank Arm Set
- Front/Rear Inner Susp Shafts (44mm)
- Front Outer Susp Shaft (25mm)
3rd party Hopups/Hardware
- Blue shims/spacers (various sizes)
- Blue lock nuts (various sizes)
- Ceramic diff balls
- Lunsford 1 1/8" Ti Turnbuckles
- STRC Alum Front Bulkhead
In Tebo's ROAR Nats (WCRC) setup sheet, do you guys know what brand shock oil he is referencing? I know that they use Losi shock oil on their 1/8 buggies but didn't want to assume that was the case for 1/10.
10-08-2012, 11:38 AM
#1226
Tech Initiate
10-08-2012, 12:58 PM
#1230
Tech Master
iTrader: (27)
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: im 4rm a far away place called 1st
Posts: 1,849
Trader Rating: 27 (100%+)
I do believe i just got the last rb6 speedtech has!!!! 
its the sign of a good day lol
its the sign of a good day lol