Originally Posted by Razathorn

Flat arms are "firmer" than the kit gull wing arms. The biggest difference is how they roll less in the corners and allow you to corner harder. If you are on a track that has anything resembling traction, you want the flat arms. IF you are constantly on low traction, the kit arms may be better.

On our track, most of us use flat arms. I've tried both and honestly it just feels like you're running a much lower roll center if you run the kit arms. It's just a tuning aid.

The reason the arms do this (in my view) is the difference in progression. Gull wing arms are like laying the shocks down, flat arms are like standing them up.

If you want to run the flat arms (UM521-1), you will need to run the short shock eyelet end and ream out the 'hinge pin capture' on the outside of the arm with a reamer. Takes like just a few twists and it's done. Then use 2mm spacers on each side of the outer hinge pins before the nuts. Alternatively you can purchase the right hinge pins for those arms and get some 1.5 head capture screws, but that requires you buy stuff, so nobody I know does that.

Wayne

Originally Posted by Razathorn

You might try going up to 24mm in the rear if the track is that slick.

Originally Posted by trickedyfz450

nickdawg18 " I think im gonna try 29° of caster this weekend to tame the steering. Has anyone tried 34° of caster? Is it way too much?"

When you say you have too much steering is it more entering a turn or mid to exit? I found a better balance with my rb6 is to lengthen the front camber link to the middle hole with 1mm inside and outside. It took a little away from initial but gave me more mid to exit.

I have tried 30 degrees of caster before and thought the car got lazy up front. I haven't tried 27 degrees yet but have been wanting too.

Originally Posted by trickedyfz450

nickdawg18 " I think im gonna try 29° of caster this weekend to tame the steering. Has anyone tried 34° of caster? Is it way too much?"

When you say you have too much steering is it more entering a turn or mid to exit? I found a better balance with my rb6 is to lengthen the front camber link to the middle hole with 1mm inside and outside. It took a little away from initial but gave me more mid to exit.

I have tried 30 degrees of caster before and thought the car got lazy up front. I haven't tried 27 degrees yet but have been wanting too.

Originally Posted by Razathorn

I'm of the opinion that you should use caster to tune high speed or "total" steering only. "Tameness" is really more of a "initial turn in" type of thing, and that is best adjusted via front camber and front roll center in my opinion.

A lower front roll center will smooth out the responsiveness and aggressiveness of the steering. It will also add some low speed steering mid corner (while you're already deep in the turn and want as much steering as possible to prevent pushing).

Zero front camber gives the most responsive steering. More negative camber makes the car far more plush and smooth up front. -2 is about the most I run ever. In most cases, I run -1 and go up or down a half or whole degree to fine tune initial steering.

I would suggest picking the caster that gives you the most net steering for your layout. From there, add negative camber or lower the front RC (lower link 1mm on spindles or raise 1mm at inside brace) to smooth things out. It's a very reliable way to get a good balance of the best of both worlds.

Originally Posted by Razathorn

I'm of the opinion that you should use caster to tune high speed or "total" steering only. "Tameness" is really more of a "initial turn in" type of thing, and that is best adjusted via front camber and front roll center in my opinion.

A lower front roll center will smooth out the responsiveness and aggressiveness of the steering. It will also add some low speed steering mid corner (while you're already deep in the turn and want as much steering as possible to prevent pushing).

Zero front camber gives the most responsive steering. More negative camber makes the car far more plush and smooth up front. -2 is about the most I run ever. In most cases, I run -1 and go up or down a half or whole degree to fine tune initial steering.

I would suggest picking the caster that gives you the most net steering for your layout. From there, add negative camber or lower the front RC (lower link 1mm on spindles or raise 1mm at inside brace) to smooth things out. It's a very reliable way to get a good balance of the best of both worlds.

Originally Posted by nickdawg18

I'm running on a carpet track, mid motor, shorty. When I would go into a fast turn the body would roll hard. I never lost traction but I'm sure the inside wheels were close to coming off the track. A lower roll center would help fight this?

Originally Posted by B00t13g

What are the wide and narrow equivalents when using the mounting blocks with the plastic inserts? For instance, tebos worlds setup calls for a/ b outside what is that besides 3.5 toe?

Originally Posted by iMarky

so im build my shocks and i notice that the ball shocks dont fit tight/snug is this normal ?

also comes with that crappy plastic nut to hold the shocks..

my losi 22 had a nice snap/tight snug fit but still moved around with no binding ...

Yes. You want the shocks to have a little play in them. This way they don't bind. Also don't replace the plastic nut with metal.