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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 12-06-2014, 12:54 PM   #11206
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Just wondering if drilling the 17.5mm hole would help on a rear motor??
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Old 12-06-2014, 02:21 PM   #11207
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phillypete View Post
Fellow RB6er's,

I have a tremendous problem with my usually well behaved RB6. As of late I cannot finish a heat without something in my transmition failing. It is mostly spur gears and idlers. I did also have an axle come apart as well, but that may have been unrelated.

This started when I made the move from a very small indoor track with very small jumps to a decent sized indoor track with some nice jumps.

I've replaced everything in the transmition system several times, new pinions new spur gear, new slipper, new top shaft, new idlers, new bearings, switched between ball diff and gear diff as well.

I am in desperate need of help. My kyosho has been very good to me in the past, but I my next move is to try a different brand.

Thanks!
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Originally Posted by phillypete View Post
I'm running a 7.5, but I turn it down depending on the grip.

I'm an 1/8th scale nitro buggy guy at heart, so I might be guilty of being hard on the throttle when I land. Is it that I can't be on the throttle at all at landing or just not full wood. I usually like to jump nose down and then use the throttle to push the rear tires down on landing. Like I said at our old track we didn't have jumps that were big enough to even worry about flying the buggy, so I'm new to this.

I'm running the stock slipper, but I'm thinking of upgrading whats the best avid or schelle?

The new facility is so much fun. The track is so much fun to drive. That's why I hate having these issues. I love the way it all flows together.

We did run our usual club race last night. Turn out was decent, but we didn't expect too many folks to make it out because of the race this weekend at the badlands. We did have a bunch of racers stop by to check it out. Adam Drake stopped in for a tour and hung out in the pits for a little while. He even posted up some photos on his FB page!

There should be an announcement going up very soon about the weekend of March 21st and 22nd... so you might want to keep that weekend open... wink wink!


Based on the above and what others have posted,

I'd for sure be looking at a few things.

Check the spur/pinion gear mesh. If it's too tight, or too loose it can be the cause of part of your issue.

Check the slipper. If you're running it locked down or close to it, that there could be a big part of the issue. It'll transfer all the shock and stress right to the tranny gears and drive lines. The slipper's main job is to allow for some slip so that the load forces aren't directly applied to the gears. Like when landing off a jump at full wood or near full wood. If it's too loose, it'll for sure kill the spur.

Tranny case. Could be cracked, could have over heated the plastic and caused there to be too much slop where one or more of where the bearings seat or possibly wallowed out one of the idler shaft spots and may be the cause for the gears themselves to move/chatter just enough to skip[ a tooth or two a is causing the gear to fail. Kind of a long shot on that, but is a possibility. Also check that the tranny case isn't bound up because it's over tightened or cross tightened to the motor plate. If that has been done, it'll likely cause overheating and could soften the gears enough to fail easier. Simple fix is a new tranny case. If you have already checked the tranny case and all checks out/looks good, then make sure it's tightened down just enough to keep the motor plate snug/tightish. May need a little Loctite on the motor plate to keep the tranny screws from backing out. If all that checks out, recheck/reset the slipper.

Rear end shims for antisquat. This is more for the MM setup. Make sure you have the right shims in the right places for the antisquat you want/need. If you have too many shims in the wrong place, it could cause the tranny to sit in the wrong position. Once it's tightened down in the chassis, it could cause to tranny case to flex/warp and cause part or most of the issue you are having.

Driving. If all is set/built right you should be able to land on power and not kill the gears most of the time. Even landing full wood, it should last a while, though it's not good for the car and will eventually fail at some point. Simple solution is to change the way you're landing the jumps by letting off the throttle just a tad before you actually land and then roll back on if possible. Don't land a little off power and hit full throttle the instant your tires hit the ground. The car will like you a lot more for being a bit smoother with the throttle. Might not always be the fast way to go, but could save you some headaches, although there could be times where you have to land on power or at full wood, in which case, if everything is right, it should be able to handle it most of the time.

Drag brake. If you are running a ton of drag brake, that could also be part of the issue, as you have to stay on the power to keep the car from slowing down too much or almost stopping. More so when it's in the air, which makes you have to land on power all the time. It's somewhat extreme to have a tranny gear failure just from too much drag brake, but it can happen. Again like above, if things are built/set up right, it should handle it most of the time, but can be a cause or partial cause for your failures.
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Old 12-06-2014, 07:39 PM   #11208
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Something is not put together correctly. I've broken just about everything you can on a buggy, but never had problems with a Trans or diff the way you describe. I would get a new case ,top shaft. Maybe your missing the spacer or you tighten your diff too much. Show us a picture if it happens again.
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Old 12-07-2014, 09:46 PM   #11209
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Hey guys thought I would post this link to a video up for anyone interested in seeing the difference in running your battery Inline vs. Sideways in a 2wd buggy. Hope this helps answer some question anyone may have on the subject.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2vhitSrKBeg
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Old 12-07-2014, 10:44 PM   #11210
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Nice, thanks for sharing!
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Old 12-08-2014, 01:01 AM   #11211
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Enigma R/C View Post
Hey guys thought I would post this link to a video up for anyone interested in seeing the difference in running your battery Inline vs. Sideways in a 2wd buggy. Hope this helps answer some question anyone may have on the subject.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2vhitSrKBeg
Interesting...I've been running the sideways battery with my 17.5 simply because that is how the previous guy (bought used) had it set up. Planning on giving it a try inline just to see what I prefer.
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Old 12-08-2014, 12:02 PM   #11212
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Default mid motor 3 gear tranny

Considering putting the 3 gear tranny in my mm 17.5 car. Anyone done this have advice? What all will i need to do aside from just changing the box/removing a gear
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Old 12-08-2014, 01:51 PM   #11213
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I asked about that and got no response. I'm interested in a three gear mm as well
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Old 12-08-2014, 06:19 PM   #11214
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Ok I am working on my roller that i bought. I got it and noticed that the front body does not have a hole and it does not have a pin. ??? Has the pins on the left and right rear but no front? Is this a mod or just a mishap? Thanks
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Old 12-08-2014, 06:31 PM   #11215
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The previous owner cut it off. When you buy a new front top plate it will have the spot for the body clip. Most of us cut it off, it messes the paint job up man.
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Old 12-08-2014, 06:33 PM   #11216
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How do you get it to stay on and not flip up?
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Old 12-08-2014, 06:38 PM   #11217
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Quote:
Originally Posted by katoom007 View Post
How do you get it to stay on and not flip up?
most use something like velcro. Actually even with body clips, Velcro is still popular so the body doesn't rattle.
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Old 12-08-2014, 06:40 PM   #11218
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Originally Posted by mdwaeracer View Post
I asked about that and got no response. I'm interested in a three gear mm as well
Keep me posted if you see anything... I'll keep watching the thread cuz I'm planning on rebuilding my stock buggy this week
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Old 12-08-2014, 07:05 PM   #11219
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thank you for the help with the body. What is the benefit of the 1 degree aluminmum hubs. ???
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Old 12-09-2014, 01:17 AM   #11220
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 8RC View Post
Considering putting the 3 gear tranny in my mm 17.5 car. Anyone done this have advice? What all will i need to do aside from just changing the box/removing a gear
I tried that (before the B5M ones!). The idea was to get more on-power steering from the RB6 on tight astro tracks.
When using the rear-motor 3-gear tranny, fitting is easy but the motor ends up on the wrong side, you have to get it to run backwards. AFAIK, even the best ESC available now don't have a proper "backwards" CW motor setup, you lose all the timing adjustment, it is like running a sensorless ESC. This may be less of a problem on a blinky class though.

So I went one step further and drilled my tranny case in order to have the motor on the correct side. It is not an easy task as you have to shim the slipper shaft precisely (as it only sits on the edge of the bearing) and build a custom tranny spacer. I tried it back to back on my home track but the grip was low (wet astro) and TBH I didn't felt any difference . I will try it again when the weather gets better and the grip comes back. It won't be before april though.
HTH
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