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Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread

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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0°/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 11-06-2014, 08:54 PM
  #11056  
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Done. 737 pages down.
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Old 11-06-2014, 09:55 PM
  #11057  
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Edit.

Nevermind I figured it out.

Last edited by 3srcracing; 11-07-2014 at 09:33 AM.
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Old 11-08-2014, 11:47 AM
  #11058  
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Whats up guys. Will be running this car on carpet. Just assembled a gear diff and it seems to be sweating a bit. Ive read thebdiff has a few leak issues. Hows the ball diff holding up on carpet I know the K Ball diffs are pretty awesome and never had a problen on dirt. I do have ceramic and carbide balls to play with.
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Old 11-08-2014, 12:17 PM
  #11059  
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Originally Posted by tonyv2382
Whats up guys. Will be running this car on carpet. Just assembled a gear diff and it seems to be sweating a bit. Ive read thebdiff has a few leak issues. Hows the ball diff holding up on carpet I know the K Ball diffs are pretty awesome and never had a problen on dirt. I do have ceramic and carbide balls to play with.
Can't speak to much for the ball diff but so far it's been flawless for a couple weeks. I tried the gear diff and found it leaked like crazy. Lasted about a race then leaked everywhere and made a huge mess. Threw it in the part box and never looked back.
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Old 11-08-2014, 01:27 PM
  #11060  
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Originally Posted by dpcardoza
Can't speak to much for the ball diff but so far it's been flawless for a couple weeks. I tried the gear diff and found it leaked like crazy. Lasted about a race then leaked everywhere and made a huge mess. Threw it in the part box and never looked back.
Ok cool. This is on carpet?
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Old 11-08-2014, 05:01 PM
  #11061  
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Originally Posted by tonyv2382
Ok cool. This is on carpet?
No, high bite indoor clay. Not saying the gear diff won't work for ya. I just could never get it to seal properly. It lasted 1 6min run and was nearly empty by the end. Took it apart and changed gaskets, same result.
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Old 11-08-2014, 06:22 PM
  #11062  
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Originally Posted by dpcardoza
No, high bite indoor clay. Not saying the gear diff won't work for ya. I just could never get it to seal properly. It lasted 1 6min run and was nearly empty by the end. Took it apart and changed gaskets, same result.
Yup. All I did was assemble it and it isnt sealing. Noticed it starting to sweat around where the two halves meet. Hopefully kyosho fixes this issue in the near future.
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Old 11-08-2014, 06:33 PM
  #11063  
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Ok... So just looking for a general answer/opinion. If I'm looking for more foward bite coming out of turns what would I be looking at to change first and so on. Running in rear motor 17.5.
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Old 11-08-2014, 06:40 PM
  #11064  
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Originally Posted by Potoczak
Ok... So just looking for a general answer/opinion. If I'm looking for more foward bite coming out of turns what would I be looking at to change first and so on. Running in rear motor 17.5.
More rear toe
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Old 11-09-2014, 01:04 AM
  #11065  
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Originally Posted by tonyv2382
Yup. All I did was assemble it and it isnt sealing. Noticed it starting to sweat around where the two halves meet. Hopefully kyosho fixes this issue in the near future.
I've been running a gear diff (7k oil) at OCRC with great success.

To prevent leaking I used these gaskets http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/Diff-Ca...-S_p_4659.html and I put green slim on them to help seal the diff. Also put some green slim in the screw holes, and be sure not to over tighten the diff screws, I tightened them a little at a time in a cross pattern. If you over tighten the screws it will distort the plastic and diff will leak.

Also don't forget these o rings, http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/Silicon...15_p_4307.html for the outdrives.

The last thing is do not use too much diff fluid. I fill mine just below the cross shafts, basically put a few drops in each corner, work it in, and the level should be just at or below the cross shafts.

Hope this helps.
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Old 11-09-2014, 01:32 AM
  #11066  
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Originally Posted by Jason.Dias
I've been running a gear diff (7k oil) at OCRC with great success.

To prevent leaking I used these gaskets http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/Diff-Ca...-S_p_4659.html and I put green slim on them to help seal the diff. Also put some green slim in the screw holes, and be sure not to over tighten the diff screws, I tightened them a little at a time in a cross pattern. If you over tighten the screws it will distort the plastic and diff will leak.

Also don't forget these o rings, http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/Silicon...15_p_4307.html for the outdrives.

The last thing is do not use too much diff fluid. I fill mine just below the cross shafts, basically put a few drops in each corner, work it in, and the level should be just at or below the cross shafts.

Hope this helps.
Will gove it a go. Thank you!
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Old 11-09-2014, 04:10 AM
  #11067  
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+1 what Jason said

the biggest think is not to over fill the diff, I filled just over half way, use the cross pin as a guide. Been running 5k on carpet for 3 months no leaks but I have stripped a plastic idler gear.
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Old 11-09-2014, 05:35 AM
  #11068  
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I used gasket sealant either side of the paper gasket and no leaking what so ever
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Old 11-09-2014, 11:48 AM
  #11069  
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Tried this. I think overfilling is definitely the issue. Seems leak free as of now time will tell. I guess the proper oil level would be just above the bevel gear under the cross pins. On my TRF diffs which are pretty much bomb proof and leak proof, the trick was sanding each half of the diff case. I did that so that it is a more rough surface where thet meet instead of a "finished" slippery surface which I believe may help contain more oil.

Last edited by tonyv2382; 11-09-2014 at 03:08 PM.
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Old 11-09-2014, 03:41 PM
  #11070  
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My new electronic set up. . Mr clean status
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After
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