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Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread

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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0°/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 11-04-2014, 09:04 AM
  #11041  
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Originally Posted by CoryD
Have you tried MIP pucks? Gord Tessmann suggested I try them as the RB6 has a lot of dog-bone plunge which he thinks causes extra friction and fights the suspension compression on-power. I switched over to the MIPs and it was a lot better; the car actually squatted.

Give it a try.

Regards,
I will probably in the future but trying to stay close to stock right now. I have a SC6 that is nearly stock and runs very well. It has the kit setup.
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Old 11-04-2014, 12:57 PM
  #11042  
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So how will the MIP pucks system eliminate dog bone plunge?
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Old 11-04-2014, 03:32 PM
  #11043  
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Can someone advise me on bang for your buck weight savings. I'm running stock 17.5 and need to trim some weight. It's pretty obvious that I could easily spend 2-300 dollars in lighter parts so what is the top 3 or so.
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Old 11-04-2014, 05:21 PM
  #11044  
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Originally Posted by dpcardoza
Can someone advise me on bang for your buck weight savings. I'm running stock 17.5 and need to trim some weight. It's pretty obvious that I could easily spend 2-300 dollars in lighter parts so what is the top 3 or so.
Light weight chassis, mip pucks system, titanium screw set.
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Old 11-04-2014, 05:31 PM
  #11045  
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Originally Posted by potatobed409
So how will the MIP pucks system eliminate dog bone plunge?
Doesn't eliminate plunge just the friction. The plastic pucks slide nicely on the outdrives. Noticeable difference in performance. Probably the best investment one could make to a 17.5 buggy.
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Old 11-04-2014, 05:44 PM
  #11046  
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Originally Posted by Vincent_Diesel
Ran last weekend with a shorty battery all the way forward with ESC between motor and shorty pack. I was struggling for traction in MM -- B5Ms seemed to be doing well on same conditions. I do not want to go RM because I feel it doesn't fit my driving style -- besides at our track MM is the rage right now.

I am running the latest Kevin King MM setup with new drilled shock location.
.
I run the shorty and esc motor config myself and my buggy wheelies out the corner at times. Recently went back to mid and added a shim for anti squat (under the front hing pin holder), along with the brass weight on the rear of the bulk head.
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Old 11-04-2014, 10:15 PM
  #11047  
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What setup would you guys suggest running for a damp-wet track, low-medium bite.

Stock setup feel... egh okay, but hard to drive, and feels like you have drive it fragile. My friend said his car sucks up here, but at the other track it's on rails...

Would you go Zach Rogers setup?
I just put the RB5 arms on and it helped a little, but still not the locked in feeling I'm looking for.
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Old 11-05-2014, 12:33 AM
  #11048  
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Originally Posted by Potoczak
Light weight chassis, mip pucks system, titanium screw set.
Does the Lunsford Punnisher Ti Turnbuckle kit offer much weight savings? Can't find any information on it but seems like it should.
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Old 11-05-2014, 03:40 AM
  #11049  
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Originally Posted by dpcardoza
Does the Lunsford Punnisher Ti Turnbuckle kit offer much weight savings? Can't find any information on it but seems like it should.
Yes the Lunsford kit would be another good weight saver.
https://www.lunsfordracing.com/mm5/m...e=CARS-KYULRB6
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Old 11-05-2014, 05:44 AM
  #11050  
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Originally Posted by Potoczak
Yes the Lunsford kit would be another good weight saver.
https://www.lunsfordracing.com/mm5/m...e=CARS-KYULRB6
Thanks. I can't seem to find how much weight it saves but it seems like it should be significant. The punnisher w/o the ball cups is only about $27 at amain. My stock build with shorty lipo is running about 1630g and I'd like to shave off enough weight to hit the mid 1500's to provide some flexibility to run saddle packs if I want. Also not trying to break the bank. If I had about $300 to spend it would be easy but trying to do it for around a hundred is much more difficult. Is 14g wire okay to use on a 17.5 esc/motor? That might be a cheap way to drop some weight as well.
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Old 11-05-2014, 02:31 PM
  #11051  
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Also to try to run the Zach Rogers setup, if I wanted to run cheaper springs..

What spring rate are the:
Kyosho Gold rears
and
Kyosho pink fronts
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Old 11-05-2014, 04:05 PM
  #11052  
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Originally Posted by 3srcracing
Also to try to run the Zach Rogers setup, if I wanted to run cheaper springs..

What spring rate are the:
Kyosho Gold rears
and
Kyosho pink fronts
http://www.petitrc.com/setup/kyosho/...Bore/Chart.pdf

Here's a chart for ya bud.
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Old 11-05-2014, 04:45 PM
  #11053  
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What effect of any does motor size have on a setup? I mostly run stock 17.5 on sticky indoor clay and most setups, even ones with similar track characteristics use 7.5t motors. Just curious if those should get me closer still.
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Old 11-05-2014, 10:04 PM
  #11054  
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Originally Posted by dpcardoza
What effect of any does motor size have on a setup? I mostly run stock 17.5 on sticky indoor clay and most setups, even ones with similar track characteristics use 7.5t motors. Just curious if those should get me closer still.
I run 17.5 but have the same setup as the mod guys: oil, springs, ballast etc. A good setup should serve well in both classes in my limited experience.
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Old 11-06-2014, 05:58 AM
  #11055  
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Originally Posted by dpcardoza
What effect of any does motor size have on a setup? I mostly run stock 17.5 on sticky indoor clay and most setups, even ones with similar track characteristics use 7.5t motors. Just curious if those should get me closer still.
From what I understand, serious mod guys will typically start off with a 13.5 at a new track to make it easier to dial in their setups before switching to the more aggressive motor... so it shouldn't make much of a difference.
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