Larse

You should be fine by just getting the laydown topshaft and slipper parts.
But new kits are always fun tho...

ChadoSan

iTrader: (4)

trans case is 4 grams lighter

hardijs

hi,
I`m going to get LD for upcoming indoor season. We race on EOS type carpet.
is it any option part which I should add at the very begining to my basket?
and which spare parts you could recomend to have for this kit?

Larse

The cnc idler gear (u7701), alloy front yokes (u4228) and maybe the springsets (cr177, cr178) should be a good start and good for a long while

Arms, hubs (and yokes if you don't get alloys) and upper and lower bulkhead (they usually don't break, but always nice to have just in case). Kinda the same spares as other cars

RazorRC

iTrader: (5)

For carpet, all of the front brass weights IMO.

hardijs

and how about rear roll bar kit?

RazorRC

iTrader: (5)

bustedparts

iTrader: (11)

I have a quick question. I bought a LD stock spec car and I am running on high bite indoor clay track and they track is on the smaller size. Right now I am struggling with setup a bit. I do not have a problem with traction in the rear. More in the front with the steering. First , would it be a wise choice to put the alloy chassis on it to stiffen the car up? Or would be lighter and adding weight to it be a better option? Second question is with the slipper eliminator. As it is a high traction track should I run a slipper instead of the eliminator to smooth out the car.

Raul Garcia

iTrader: (79)

I prefer the aluminum -5 chassis on both carpet and clay surface . If you need more steering simply add the brass weight under the servo, and or the brass esc plate. It will help keep the nose down.
The Stock Spec buggy is very light out of the box to reach minimum weight for 2wd class of 1499g. Some strive to be on the 1500g mark, some prefer heavier wet weights.

As for slipper lockout or slipper, its a preference.

twistert1

iTrader: (2)

Ordering a new lay down stock spec buggy for a high bite clay track, should I order a ball diff, or go with a gear diff? Thanks for your help, Dave.

Raul Garcia

iTrader: (79)

Dave,
in my opinion I would have ordered the V3 ball diff, along with the alloy geared diff conversion. Setting up the gear diff with 2 steel gears, and 2 little steel satellite gears, one thick shim behind the sun gear, and one thin shim between the outdrive and oring. You'll have the best of both worlds for sure, and takes only a minute to exchange the diff. Also in conjunction with either diff, the alloy Hi/Low eccentrics are a nice small upgrade for either setup.

ufoDziner

iTrader: (39)

What is the advantage of the alloy diff for stock? I would think that it has more rotating mass, but have no actual weight info to support that. Thanks.

twistert1

iTrader: (2)

Raul, thanks for the help, I'ii be ordering the stuff you mentioned.

Raul Garcia

iTrader: (79)

the alloy diff is larger fluid capacity, doesn't leak, rotates true as its a machined part, and the shims stay in tact which in turn keeps the diff operation consistent. I've actually tried to run the plastic diff vs the alloy diff in the same race day. The alloy diff felt more planted with same track speed. I run alloy diffs in all my current Schumacher rigs.

Raul Garcia

iTrader: (79)

No sweat!