amhobby

iTrader: (6)

I have both but run on carpet. They are both very competitive. The LD has easy access to the diff and is fairly easy to work on and uses standard offset wheels (Associated). It will probably be harder and slower to obtain parts for the LD especially if it is on backorder. I could not find a slipper eliminator anywhere and finally one showed up on eBay. It is still not available from any of the suppliers and it's been that way over a month. Common items are usually not a problem. Get the Klinik battery mount, Schumacher aluminum front yokes, hubs and brass radio plate before the build. Discountrcstore.com is a good source for parts. I think I prefer the LD but like both cars. I also have a Serpent Gen 3 that may end up being awesome. Same parts issues as the LD but worth a look.

jonski

iTrader: (380)

Looking for a complete slipper setup for the Cougar Laydown. If anyone has one they are not using, please let me know.

tobamiester

iTrader: (360)

Hey guys, any specific tips on keeping the oil in the gear diff. Seems to leak pretty bad and i've built a few diffs in my time. Maybe I'm doing something wrong ?

amhobby

iTrader: (6)

Make sure you put the grease on the O rings and thread screw holes before assembly. Tighten evenly. Trish from Schumacher has a diff building video on YouTube that is very helpful. Check it out

celt

iTrader: (5)

Whenever this has happened to my diffs, it has almost always been a case of overfilling...better to be a little shy on oil than to overfill. Once you overfill, the oil must go somewhere...like all over your car or gearbox.

tobamiester

iTrader: (360)

hmm, yeah but ALL of it?

tobamiester

iTrader: (360)

Another question. What are you guys doing for
motor fan mount? (For stock racing)

amhobby

iTrader: (6)

Clean chassis with alcohol and 3m tape the fan behind the motor against the transmission. I have 2 cars with fans mounted like this with no problems. I did trim the rear of the body for fit and airflow.

tobamiester

iTrader: (360)

So your just attaching a motor direct to the chassis I assume? I just wondering if you guys had any specific mounts and such. Cheers.

amhobby

iTrader: (6)

Yes. this is the one i am using taped directly to the chassis. https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-...k-2112/p996578

BelknapCrater

Sure, you could go the simple and lightweight route of chassis tape. OR you could go the heavy and complicated route I took: cut down a wallowed out rear A-arm, screw the fan to that, and attach to the two transmission housing tabs above the motor, so the fan blows down onto the can. I'd post pics, but I'm nowhere near the minimum post count.

RazorRC

iTrader: (5)

I'm just running an Associated servo mount above the motor. It only fits a 7.5mm thick fan though, 10mm is a little too tall for the stock body.

mbailie

iTrader: (7)

I lost my battery orings for the klinik hold down. Any chance someone with the same battery holder would be able to measure an o ring for me? I'm assuming I can find them at Lowe's/home depot.
Thanks!

amhobby

iTrader: (6)

They are about 1 3/4" across the middle when they are round and uninstalled. I would just take the battery holder and a battery to the store with you and make sure they fit. Good luck.

Raul Garcia

iTrader: (79)

I use the TLR 22 5.0 orings on both my Laydown and EVO Klinik battery tray.