mes

This one:
TLR332067 - Team Losi Racing Complete 2wd GEAR DIFF, Aluminum: ALL 22

A member of the 22 Empire facebook group measured the above diff, ball diff and the Serpent gear diff and as it turned out, the planetary gear diff is approx. 0.6 mm shorter than the ball diff. It was mentioned that TLR was working on longer outdrives to fix the issue, but I think the problem can be solved with a couple of washers. Of course, experiencing such a failure during the first battery pack was a bummer, but as long as teething problems can be fixed, I am ok with it. I am neither a sponsored driver nor a TLR fanboy, and I am convinced this is the best ST option available right now. The first couple of laps were very promising!

The LOSA2954 diff is a standard bevel gear diff that was originally designed for the RTR vehicles when many people did not consider gear diffs an option for racing kits; I remember a picture of Mike Truhe who seemed to be shocked by the notion of using a gear diff at an EOS race. (report on oOple)
This cheaper diff has been a very tight fit from the 3.0 generation and can have leaking issues with the standard O-rings and can become warped if not assembled correctly. People started to use the Serpent diff for all these reasons. The TLR diff is a planetary gear diff, which works differently and requires thicker oils than a bevel gear diff. I used 15,000 cst Yokomo oil in mine on a tight carpet track and I liked it very much; in my YZ-2 I would probably have used 3,000 to 5,000 cst with all spider gears or 5,000 to 7,000 cst with two spider gears.

mes

Yes Eli, I double checked immediately after the incident. I also did a dry check before running. Unfortunately bench testing and driving, jumping and cornering are not the same. With the 0.5 mm shims things are looking much better, but I ordered some of the 94 mm bones nonetheless. In view of the fact that TLR had included such washers in previous kits like my 22 3.0, I just wonder why they did not include them in their latest kit. Quite a few of my buddies who are regular TLR drivers asked me if I had forgotten the shims. They did not know the shims were no longer included.

billdelong

iTrader: (33)

Best place I know here, great service too!

Just send him your blank chassis and he'll make a custom protector for it:
Chassis Protectors : Dutch Oven Designs

Roken

I just salvaged my 3.0 body to fit. I removed 12mm from front of rear wheel wells to clear front mounted shocks. Put the 3.0 rear body mount on front of 4.0 shock tower so that body posts are in the pickup bed of body. Doing so pulls out the posts so I used the wing angle adjustment shim to pull them back into position. A little bit of body needs to be removed on sides at the shock bleeder screw to clear the top of the shocks. This will have to do until I get the 4.0 body painted.

Potoczak

iTrader: (120)

Any other bodies fit on this truck?? Not a fan of the stock body.

tazz888

iTrader: (26)

Frank, would the steering rack flip mod be beneficial on turf for the truck like it is for the buggy?

mes

Not Frank here, but I found the flip mod necessary to achieve neutral bump steer with the HRC arm mount. In short: yes!

mes

IIRC Paul Wynn mentioned that it was on JConcept's list. As of now, there is no dedicated 22T 4.0 available that I know of. You may be able to fit a T5M or T4 body depending on the rear shock location.

tazz888

iTrader: (26)

Thanks!

One other question since you mentioned the HRC block. If running a brass block and 25 deg kick does the spacer still go between the block and chassis? Or does removing the spacer make the brass block HRC? I haven't been able to find a solid answer...... probably haven't looked in the right place yet! LOL

mes

I haven't done this modification myself, but IIRC you have to remove the spacer to make it HRC and cut off the excess material of the brass block's center guide that protrudes from the chassis on the topside.

Frank Root

iTrader: (25)

It will, but isn't needed with the stock 22T 4.0 spindles.

sgtlt

iTrader: (5)

is there a rear sway bar for this truck ? if so could you post the part #. I can find anything listed.

mes

TLR334040, the same as the buggy one.

RazorRC

iTrader: (5)

Anyone have issues with the front wheels hitting the suspension arm right where it flares out?

I noticed the 4.0 kit setup is 2mm trail and short VLA. But when I tried that combination on my 3.0, the wheels would rub the arm right where the philips screwdriver is pointing at. I actually dremeled it down a bit to clear, but eventually just gave up and went back to 3mm trail.




T4.0 arm on bottom, T3.0 arm on top. Part looks exactly the same, except where I dremeled it down a bit.

jmitchell

iTrader: (3)

Yes, this happened on my 22T 4.0 truck with 3mm and 4mm of trail. But not with 2mm of trail. I filed down my arm in the same area and also trimmed off a little on the inside edge of the wheel.

I am now able to run the 3mm trail setting with no rubbing, but 4mm still has too much rubbing and is unusable for me.