302LikesR1 Wurks brushless motors
05-13-2018, 08:52 AM
#692
Tech Initiate
05-14-2018, 07:51 AM
#694
having some issues with the 1700+ rotor on an indoor astroturf track. Current setup is a b6 17.5T, geared 78/34, can timing is 50, WTF fan keeps it cool around 110-120* after a 5 minute run, hobbywing justock XR10 and SMC 115C true spec extreme lipos, spektrum dx5r,.There is a huge neutral range on throttle to the point where i have to pull the trigger all the down just to get the thing to move. I have tried calibrating the TX, the esc, set the punch to 9, set neutral range to 6*. Nothing seems to work. Everything was real smooth and responsive before i put the HT rotor in.
Anyone use the 12.3mm rotor in a 17.5t? wondering if this is an option for me.... should i go back to stock rotor or the 1650?
Anyone use the 12.3mm rotor in a 17.5t? wondering if this is an option for me.... should i go back to stock rotor or the 1650?
05-15-2018, 04:31 PM
#695
Rotor Ron
Just a heads up for potential new Rotor Ron customers...
I purchased one of his R1 Full Monty 17.5 motors. Communication through e-mail was so excellent, I had replies within minutes. Received the motor about an hours or so ago and attempted to tear down the motor to document the shims in preparation for the upcoming Reedy Race. It has to be my luck or something but one of the screws fails to budge. Rather than break the aluminum screw, I e-mailed Ron for assistance.
His first reply was "I don't know what to tell you". So I e-mailed him a video of me trying to unscrew it, making horrible metal noise in the process. His next reply, "If it breaks I'm not sure what i can do for u other than refund ya. Sold 100s of motors and this is certainly a first...It's gotta be bound up. Think about it. It went together just fine. Just return it. It's already been too much time over an rc motor. ..."
Had this been a steel screw, I would have just pulled it out no problem. Time is an issue, there is one weekend left for practice, I still need to get my baseline for gearing and such. I don't care much for the IDGAF attitude, after all it's $159. I can understand if he was having a bad day, no big deal. But for those expecting support from this individual, I wouldn't hold my breath.. As I've said, great communication from Ron, that is of course you don't have a product issue. Your mileage will vary. In the event that the stick is removed out of his ass and he offers assistance, I may edit this post to reflect the current status of support.
I was able to remove the screw, it was not cross threaded . The tolerance of one hole in the stator is pretty tight. The standard steel screw drops in just fine, the aluminum screws are a tad bit larger in diameter by 7 1/100ths.
I purchased one of his R1 Full Monty 17.5 motors. Communication through e-mail was so excellent, I had replies within minutes. Received the motor about an hours or so ago and attempted to tear down the motor to document the shims in preparation for the upcoming Reedy Race. It has to be my luck or something but one of the screws fails to budge. Rather than break the aluminum screw, I e-mailed Ron for assistance.
His first reply was "I don't know what to tell you". So I e-mailed him a video of me trying to unscrew it, making horrible metal noise in the process. His next reply, "If it breaks I'm not sure what i can do for u other than refund ya. Sold 100s of motors and this is certainly a first...It's gotta be bound up. Think about it. It went together just fine. Just return it. It's already been too much time over an rc motor. ..."
Had this been a steel screw, I would have just pulled it out no problem. Time is an issue, there is one weekend left for practice, I still need to get my baseline for gearing and such. I don't care much for the IDGAF attitude, after all it's $159. I can understand if he was having a bad day, no big deal. But for those expecting support from this individual, I wouldn't hold my breath.. As I've said, great communication from Ron, that is of course you don't have a product issue. Your mileage will vary. In the event that the stick is removed out of his ass and he offers assistance, I may edit this post to reflect the current status of support.
I was able to remove the screw, it was not cross threaded . The tolerance of one hole in the stator is pretty tight. The standard steel screw drops in just fine, the aluminum screws are a tad bit larger in diameter by 7 1/100ths.
Last edited by zerius; 05-15-2018 at 05:25 PM. Reason: update
05-16-2018, 05:17 AM
#696
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (3)
Just a heads up for potential new Rotor Ron customers...
I purchased one of his R1 Full Monty 17.5 motors. Communication through e-mail was so excellent, I had replies within minutes. Received the motor about an hours or so ago and attempted to tear down the motor to document the shims in preparation for the upcoming Reedy Race. It has to be my luck or something but one of the screws fails to budge. Rather than break the aluminum screw, I e-mailed Ron for assistance.
His first reply was "I don't know what to tell you". So I e-mailed him a video of me trying to unscrew it, making horrible metal noise in the process. His next reply, "If it breaks I'm not sure what i can do for u other than refund ya. Sold 100s of motors and this is certainly a first...It's gotta be bound up. Think about it. It went together just fine. Just return it. It's already been too much time over an rc motor. ..."
Had this been a steel screw, I would have just pulled it out no problem. Time is an issue, there is one weekend left for practice, I still need to get my baseline for gearing and such. I don't care much for the IDGAF attitude, after all it's $159. I can understand if he was having a bad day, no big deal. But for those expecting support from this individual, I wouldn't hold my breath.. As I've said, great communication from Ron, that is of course you don't have a product issue. Your mileage will vary. In the event that the stick is removed out of his ass and he offers assistance, I may edit this post to reflect the current status of support.
I was able to remove the screw, it was not cross threaded . The tolerance of one hole in the stator is pretty tight. The standard steel screw drops in just fine, the aluminum screws are a tad bit larger in diameter by 7 1/100ths.
I purchased one of his R1 Full Monty 17.5 motors. Communication through e-mail was so excellent, I had replies within minutes. Received the motor about an hours or so ago and attempted to tear down the motor to document the shims in preparation for the upcoming Reedy Race. It has to be my luck or something but one of the screws fails to budge. Rather than break the aluminum screw, I e-mailed Ron for assistance.
His first reply was "I don't know what to tell you". So I e-mailed him a video of me trying to unscrew it, making horrible metal noise in the process. His next reply, "If it breaks I'm not sure what i can do for u other than refund ya. Sold 100s of motors and this is certainly a first...It's gotta be bound up. Think about it. It went together just fine. Just return it. It's already been too much time over an rc motor. ..."
Had this been a steel screw, I would have just pulled it out no problem. Time is an issue, there is one weekend left for practice, I still need to get my baseline for gearing and such. I don't care much for the IDGAF attitude, after all it's $159. I can understand if he was having a bad day, no big deal. But for those expecting support from this individual, I wouldn't hold my breath.. As I've said, great communication from Ron, that is of course you don't have a product issue. Your mileage will vary. In the event that the stick is removed out of his ass and he offers assistance, I may edit this post to reflect the current status of support.
I was able to remove the screw, it was not cross threaded . The tolerance of one hole in the stator is pretty tight. The standard steel screw drops in just fine, the aluminum screws are a tad bit larger in diameter by 7 1/100ths.
Interesting enough. The newest batches of 25.5 didn't meet what was turned in for ROAR approval and they are not the same; Illegal. RR is not standing behind these either. So their now $125 paper weights.
Last edited by freebird; 05-16-2018 at 05:18 AM. Reason: spelling
05-16-2018, 07:15 AM
#697
Just a heads up for potential new Rotor Ron customers...
I purchased one of his R1 Full Monty 17.5 motors. Communication through e-mail was so excellent, I had replies within minutes. Received the motor about an hours or so ago and attempted to tear down the motor to document the shims in preparation for the upcoming Reedy Race. It has to be my luck or something but one of the screws fails to budge. Rather than break the aluminum screw, I e-mailed Ron for assistance.
His first reply was "I don't know what to tell you". So I e-mailed him a video of me trying to unscrew it, making horrible metal noise in the process. His next reply, "If it breaks I'm not sure what i can do for u other than refund ya. Sold 100s of motors and this is certainly a first...It's gotta be bound up. Think about it. It went together just fine. Just return it. It's already been too much time over an rc motor. ..."
Had this been a steel screw, I would have just pulled it out no problem. Time is an issue, there is one weekend left for practice, I still need to get my baseline for gearing and such. I don't care much for the IDGAF attitude, after all it's $159. I can understand if he was having a bad day, no big deal. But for those expecting support from this individual, I wouldn't hold my breath.. As I've said, great communication from Ron, that is of course you don't have a product issue. Your mileage will vary. In the event that the stick is removed out of his ass and he offers assistance, I may edit this post to reflect the current status of support.
I was able to remove the screw, it was not cross threaded . The tolerance of one hole in the stator is pretty tight. The standard steel screw drops in just fine, the aluminum screws are a tad bit larger in diameter by 7 1/100ths.
I purchased one of his R1 Full Monty 17.5 motors. Communication through e-mail was so excellent, I had replies within minutes. Received the motor about an hours or so ago and attempted to tear down the motor to document the shims in preparation for the upcoming Reedy Race. It has to be my luck or something but one of the screws fails to budge. Rather than break the aluminum screw, I e-mailed Ron for assistance.
His first reply was "I don't know what to tell you". So I e-mailed him a video of me trying to unscrew it, making horrible metal noise in the process. His next reply, "If it breaks I'm not sure what i can do for u other than refund ya. Sold 100s of motors and this is certainly a first...It's gotta be bound up. Think about it. It went together just fine. Just return it. It's already been too much time over an rc motor. ..."
Had this been a steel screw, I would have just pulled it out no problem. Time is an issue, there is one weekend left for practice, I still need to get my baseline for gearing and such. I don't care much for the IDGAF attitude, after all it's $159. I can understand if he was having a bad day, no big deal. But for those expecting support from this individual, I wouldn't hold my breath.. As I've said, great communication from Ron, that is of course you don't have a product issue. Your mileage will vary. In the event that the stick is removed out of his ass and he offers assistance, I may edit this post to reflect the current status of support.
I was able to remove the screw, it was not cross threaded . The tolerance of one hole in the stator is pretty tight. The standard steel screw drops in just fine, the aluminum screws are a tad bit larger in diameter by 7 1/100ths.
The best part of all this is that I had to read on this forum what the result of all this was, he could not send another email to me to let me know that he got the issue resolved.... some people would rather just complain and be the victim. Its the internet!
Yes your mileage may vary but I will also do my best I can to work with someone that is reasonable when they have an issue which is more than most people will do for you in this hobby. BTW, I am on vacation responding to this instead of putting up a canned response
Ron
05-16-2018, 09:21 AM
#698
having some issues with the 1700+ rotor on an indoor astroturf track. Current setup is a b6 17.5T, geared 78/34, can timing is 50, WTF fan keeps it cool around 110-120* after a 5 minute run, hobbywing justock XR10 and SMC 115C true spec extreme lipos, spektrum dx5r,.There is a huge neutral range on throttle to the point where i have to pull the trigger all the down just to get the thing to move. I have tried calibrating the TX, the esc, set the punch to 9, set neutral range to 6*. Nothing seems to work. Everything was real smooth and responsive before i put the HT rotor in.
Anyone use the 12.3mm rotor in a 17.5t? wondering if this is an option for me.... should i go back to stock rotor or the 1650?
Anyone use the 12.3mm rotor in a 17.5t? wondering if this is an option for me.... should i go back to stock rotor or the 1650?
05-16-2018, 12:25 PM
#700
having some issues with the 1700+ rotor on an indoor astroturf track. Current setup is a b6 17.5T, geared 78/34, can timing is 50, WTF fan keeps it cool around 110-120* after a 5 minute run, hobbywing justock XR10 and SMC 115C true spec extreme lipos, spektrum dx5r,.There is a huge neutral range on throttle to the point where i have to pull the trigger all the down just to get the thing to move. I have tried calibrating the TX, the esc, set the punch to 9, set neutral range to 6*. Nothing seems to work. Everything was real smooth and responsive before i put the HT rotor in.
Anyone use the 12.3mm rotor in a 17.5t? wondering if this is an option for me.... should i go back to stock rotor or the 1650?
Anyone use the 12.3mm rotor in a 17.5t? wondering if this is an option for me.... should i go back to stock rotor or the 1650?
i run the 1700 in my b6, but run 26/72 gearing, timing around 50 and it's a rocket ship (high bite indoor clay/slicks).
05-16-2018, 03:51 PM
#703
i have tried the rpm rotor and it feels more progressive.
05-16-2018, 03:55 PM
#704
we have some sponsored R1 drivers us AZ but run TC, one i asked about the 1700 rotor as a option, was told no longer available to stay with the rotor it came with which was in 1650 zone and 12.5 dia. one driver that did offroad outdoor on astro ran the 12.5 rotor too, not sure guass reading, but was rather fast with no issues.
05-16-2018, 05:47 PM
#705
Just a heads up for potential new Rotor Ron customers...
I purchased one of his R1 Full Monty 17.5 motors. Communication through e-mail was so excellent, I had replies within minutes. Received the motor about an hours or so ago and attempted to tear down the motor to document the shims in preparation for the upcoming Reedy Race. It has to be my luck or something but one of the screws fails to budge. Rather than break the aluminum screw, I e-mailed Ron for assistance.
His first reply was "I don't know what to tell you". So I e-mailed him a video of me trying to unscrew it, making horrible metal noise in the process. His next reply, "If it breaks I'm not sure what i can do for u other than refund ya. Sold 100s of motors and this is certainly a first...It's gotta be bound up. Think about it. It went together just fine. Just return it. It's already been too much time over an rc motor. ..."
Had this been a steel screw, I would have just pulled it out no problem. Time is an issue, there is one weekend left for practice, I still need to get my baseline for gearing and such. I don't care much for the IDGAF attitude, after all it's $159. I can understand if he was having a bad day, no big deal. But for those expecting support from this individual, I wouldn't hold my breath.. As I've said, great communication from Ron, that is of course you don't have a product issue. Your mileage will vary. In the event that the stick is removed out of his ass and he offers assistance, I may edit this post to reflect the current status of support.
I was able to remove the screw, it was not cross threaded . The tolerance of one hole in the stator is pretty tight. The standard steel screw drops in just fine, the aluminum screws are a tad bit larger in diameter by 7 1/100ths.
I purchased one of his R1 Full Monty 17.5 motors. Communication through e-mail was so excellent, I had replies within minutes. Received the motor about an hours or so ago and attempted to tear down the motor to document the shims in preparation for the upcoming Reedy Race. It has to be my luck or something but one of the screws fails to budge. Rather than break the aluminum screw, I e-mailed Ron for assistance.
His first reply was "I don't know what to tell you". So I e-mailed him a video of me trying to unscrew it, making horrible metal noise in the process. His next reply, "If it breaks I'm not sure what i can do for u other than refund ya. Sold 100s of motors and this is certainly a first...It's gotta be bound up. Think about it. It went together just fine. Just return it. It's already been too much time over an rc motor. ..."
Had this been a steel screw, I would have just pulled it out no problem. Time is an issue, there is one weekend left for practice, I still need to get my baseline for gearing and such. I don't care much for the IDGAF attitude, after all it's $159. I can understand if he was having a bad day, no big deal. But for those expecting support from this individual, I wouldn't hold my breath.. As I've said, great communication from Ron, that is of course you don't have a product issue. Your mileage will vary. In the event that the stick is removed out of his ass and he offers assistance, I may edit this post to reflect the current status of support.
I was able to remove the screw, it was not cross threaded . The tolerance of one hole in the stator is pretty tight. The standard steel screw drops in just fine, the aluminum screws are a tad bit larger in diameter by 7 1/100ths.