Cool Can Fan Talk
08-31-2005, 12:48 PM
#106
alright... I see now. But as far as wiring the fan to the battery wires. Do you splice it into the wire itself or solder it to the battery tabs?
And you say that doing it this way gives the fans the max 11,000 rpm's. How many rpm's does it give it if I ran it through my reciever. The first way you described?
About the screws I will check. I am at my office right now. Thanks...
And you say that doing it this way gives the fans the max 11,000 rpm's. How many rpm's does it give it if I ran it through my reciever. The first way you described?
About the screws I will check. I am at my office right now. Thanks...
08-31-2005, 03:10 PM
#107
Originally Posted by HRCRACER123
alright... I see now. But as far as wiring the fan to the battery wires. Do you splice it into the wire itself or solder it to the battery tabs?
And you say that doing it this way gives the fans the max 11,000 rpm's. How many rpm's does it give it if I ran it through my reciever. The first way you described?
About the screws I will check. I am at my office right now. Thanks...
And you say that doing it this way gives the fans the max 11,000 rpm's. How many rpm's does it give it if I ran it through my reciever. The first way you described?
About the screws I will check. I am at my office right now. Thanks...
What I have done is to solder the wires to the battery wire terminals on the ESC
it makes for a neater wiring finish. The other thing you can do is to run the wires back through the wire/screw hole so that the wire is now below the DCCF plate, and then you can run all 4 wires through a piece of heat shrink tube before you solder the wires to the battery terminals on the ESC.Hope this helps youCool-Can-Fan-Man
08-31-2005, 03:47 PM
#108
alright.. But what about the other question. How much faster do the fans run doing it that way compared to going through the reciever. As to when I turn on my speedo the fans go on?
You said that it gives 11,000 rmp going through the battery.
But what about through the reciever. How many rpm's does it make that go?
You said that it gives 11,000 rmp going through the battery.
But what about through the reciever. How many rpm's does it make that go?
08-31-2005, 04:29 PM
#109
Originally Posted by HRCRACER123
alright.. But what about the other question. How much faster do the fans run doing it that way compared to going through the reciever. As to when I turn on my speedo the fans go on?
You said that it gives 11,000 rmp going through the battery.
But what about through the reciever. How many rpm's does it make that go?
You said that it gives 11,000 rmp going through the battery.
But what about through the reciever. How many rpm's does it make that go?
Cool-Can-Fan-Man
09-01-2005, 05:33 AM
#111
Malc,
Check your mail.
Thanks!
Check your mail.
Thanks!
09-01-2005, 08:18 AM
#112
Malc,
If you want pics of the 415MSX, I have a load on my comp. Would probably help you to get an idea of how to mount a CCF on the car, if not exact dimensions. Let me know where to send them too.
Ed
(P.S. one of these days I will get round to ordering another fan....)
If you want pics of the 415MSX, I have a load on my comp. Would probably help you to get an idea of how to mount a CCF on the car, if not exact dimensions. Let me know where to send them too.
Ed
(P.S. one of these days I will get round to ordering another fan....)
09-01-2005, 09:26 AM
#113
I also run my DCCF / Mi2 set up with the fan wires soldered directly onto the speedo posts. Connect the batteries up with a heat to go, and by the time the heat starts the motor is nice and cool 
The best bit is no matter how cold you get a stock or 19-turn motor before going to the grid, they get warmer as soon as the car drives to the line. The fans then cool the motor and keep it cool - seen lots of quick guys run at least one and sometime two pinions higher than they would without the fan. Actually some of the gear ratios scare me
Seen a number of racers splice a small switch for the fans so they can be turned on and off seprately. I have got a couple but simply haven't got round to doing the soldering
Having run Spektum in my 1/12th it looks possible to run the fans off a plug into what is a four port reciever. But I'd still recommend connecting directly to the servo posts.
Cheers
MarkB
The best bit is no matter how cold you get a stock or 19-turn motor before going to the grid, they get warmer as soon as the car drives to the line. The fans then cool the motor and keep it cool - seen lots of quick guys run at least one and sometime two pinions higher than they would without the fan. Actually some of the gear ratios scare me
Seen a number of racers splice a small switch for the fans so they can be turned on and off seprately. I have got a couple but simply haven't got round to doing the soldering
Having run Spektum in my 1/12th it looks possible to run the fans off a plug into what is a four port reciever. But I'd still recommend connecting directly to the servo posts.
Cheers
MarkB
09-01-2005, 04:33 PM
#114
Originally Posted by MarkBurgess
I also run my DCCF / Mi2 set up with the fan wires soldered directly onto the speedo posts. Connect the batteries up with a heat to go, and by the time the heat starts the motor is nice and cool
The best bit is no matter how cold you get a stock or 19-turn motor before going to the grid, they get warmer as soon as the car drives to the line. The fans then cool the motor and keep it cool - seen lots of quick guys run at least one and sometime two pinions higher than they would without the fan. Actually some of the gear ratios scare me
Seen a number of racers splice a small switch for the fans so they can be turned on and off seprately. I have got a couple but simply haven't got round to doing the soldering
Having run Spektum in my 1/12th it looks possible to run the fans off a plug into what is a four port reciever. But I'd still recommend connecting directly to the servo posts.
Cheers
MarkB
The best bit is no matter how cold you get a stock or 19-turn motor before going to the grid, they get warmer as soon as the car drives to the line. The fans then cool the motor and keep it cool - seen lots of quick guys run at least one and sometime two pinions higher than they would without the fan. Actually some of the gear ratios scare me
Seen a number of racers splice a small switch for the fans so they can be turned on and off seprately. I have got a couple but simply haven't got round to doing the soldering
Having run Spektum in my 1/12th it looks possible to run the fans off a plug into what is a four port reciever. But I'd still recommend connecting directly to the servo posts.
Cheers
MarkB
Thanks for those kind words of appreciation, just a little comment though, you did mean Speedo posts on your last paragraph didn't you
09-01-2005, 08:54 PM
#115
Cool-Fan-Man
Malc,
The fan that is over the motor, do you know if people have been spacing the fan a little bit? Just wondering because of the magnetic field.
Thanks, Doug.
The fan that is over the motor, do you know if people have been spacing the fan a little bit? Just wondering because of the magnetic field.
Thanks, Doug.
09-02-2005, 01:07 AM
#116
Originally Posted by Doug D
Malc,
The fan that is over the motor, do you know if people have been spacing the fan a little bit? Just wondering because of the magnetic field.
Thanks, Doug.
The fan that is over the motor, do you know if people have been spacing the fan a little bit? Just wondering because of the magnetic field.
Thanks, Doug.
With regards to the spacing of the fan that sits over the motor can, it will be evident when you fire them up, if the fan over the can looks slower then space it, if not leave alone. To be absolutely sure the fan is not slowing try the following even though its a pain the *** UN-screw the top deck and lift the complete integrated top deck and you will notice if the fan becomes slower, as it will sound (mind your hair if you have any lol) and you can see it slow down and speed up, if this is the case then the magnets are interfering with the fans, then this is the time to space it.
Regards CCFM
09-07-2005, 04:06 PM
#117
Hi
To all that have that have kindly purchased Cool-Can-Fan's for their cars. We now have a NEW L
K website
Cheers Malc (The-Cool-Can-Fan-Man)
www.coolcanfan.com
To all that have that have kindly purchased Cool-Can-Fan's for their cars. We now have a NEW L
K websiteCheers Malc (The-Cool-Can-Fan-Man)
www.coolcanfan.com
09-14-2005, 04:15 PM
#118
What's the deal with that drill shaft tool on your site? Does it only work with MIP-style CVD's or does it also work with wheel axles like on the tamiya axles and japan-style HPI axles (that use 2mm pin)?
Any more info (the write-up on the site isn't very clear)?
Any more info (the write-up on the site isn't very clear)?
09-15-2005, 01:10 AM
#119
Originally Posted by Arun
What's the deal with that drill shaft tool on your site? Does it only work with MIP-style CVD's or does it also work with wheel axles like on the tamiya axles and japan-style HPI axles (that use 2mm pin)?
Any more info (the write-up on the site isn't very clear)?
Any more info (the write-up on the site isn't very clear)?
Hi
The Drill-Shaft-Tool covers the following drive shafts only, as the tool is set up for drive shafts that use 1.5 or 1/16 holes
Losi XXX-S/XXX4/XXXT/XXX/NEW JRX-S TC3/4 PRO 2 PRO3 PRO4 New Corally RDX
Hope this helps you
TCCFM
09-22-2005, 01:54 PM
#120
Hi Malcolm,
hope you have some spare fans... need a new one after a racing incident broke one last weekend at Snett. Will try and catch up with you at WLRC on Sat if you are there.
Measured up for the Stinger yet???? Mine will be available at some point if you need to do a bit of measuring.
Gaz
hope you have some spare fans... need a new one after a racing incident
broke one last weekend at Snett. Will try and catch up with you at WLRC on Sat if you are there.Measured up for the Stinger yet???? Mine will be available at some point if you need to do a bit of measuring.
Gaz