1LikesBMI Racing Discussions
11-03-2006, 11:47 AM
#9826
Originally Posted by Tim Stamper
There were a few. I'll get ya a setup.
Tim
Tim
Sweet Thanks!
11-03-2006, 08:34 PM
#9829
Originally Posted by protc3
yes it does. 
11-03-2006, 09:41 PM
#9831
ok n/p
Last edited by ngo8; 11-04-2006 at 01:22 AM.
11-04-2006, 10:32 AM
#9832
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (3)
Originally Posted by Tim Stamper
Here's what I ended up with at the Gate this weekend with the Cyclone. I had traffic and brain fart issues, but all in all the car ran very well.
Thanks,
Tim
Thanks,
Tim
I ran it with no shims, and it was just totally planted. I ran the next-longer ballstud mount on the bulkheads, and I'd like a little more stick, so I'm going to try your location instead. But even as it was, it was the smoothest car I've every driven.
MAJOR bravo to Jason, Tim, and crew.
The T2's I was battiling with last week in my Pro4 were looking at Cyclone-powered BMI dust all last night!!
11-05-2006, 01:48 PM
#9833
Originally Posted by mini-dub
Hey Jason, I got my car yesterday 
. Thanks man, it looks good. I'm excited to get it together and help our 1/12 class a little bit more out here. I'll let you guys know what I think when I have time to get it up and running. Could you post a good starting setup with just shock oil, front springs, caster, caster spacing, batter location, center spring, ect. Thanks 
.
. Thanks man, it looks good. I'm excited to get it together and help our 1/12 class a little bit more out here. I'll let you guys know what I think when I have time to get it up and running. Could you post a good starting setup with just shock oil, front springs, caster, caster spacing, batter location, center spring, ect. Thanks .if so i would start with the following:
30 wt shock oil w/ olive spring(go to silver if you want more steering)
front springs are .020
10 degree blocks w/ both shims in front of arms to start.add castor if needed.
batteries full back.if the car is too aggressive on entry move them forward a little bit at a time.
also make sure you have no more than 1mm uptravel for pod droop.
11-05-2006, 06:25 PM
#9836
so jason, what is your super secret setup for mod asphault?
11-05-2006, 08:07 PM
#9838
for mod i run
Front:
1.5 degrees of camber
.020 front springs with 5000 wt diff oil on the king pins
10 degree castor blocks 1 shim front and rear of arm
4mm ride height front
0mm front uptravel
TRC double pink wraps cut to 1.750
flanged bearing on inside of wheel and non flanged outside(for track width)
Rear:
.063 Tplate
5000 wt. oil in washers
25 wt. losi shock oil w/ olive spring
1mm of uptravel for pod droop
TRC double pink wraps cut to 1.85
track width 168mm
4.5mm ride height
batteries full back position
parma speed 8 body
i sauce the full rear tire and inside 1/2 of front with paragon ground effects.i soak it in for 15 minutes,then i put tire tweak on top until the race.wipe it off real good and you should be set.
Front:
1.5 degrees of camber
.020 front springs with 5000 wt diff oil on the king pins
10 degree castor blocks 1 shim front and rear of arm
4mm ride height front
0mm front uptravel
TRC double pink wraps cut to 1.750
flanged bearing on inside of wheel and non flanged outside(for track width)
Rear:
.063 Tplate
5000 wt. oil in washers
25 wt. losi shock oil w/ olive spring
1mm of uptravel for pod droop
TRC double pink wraps cut to 1.85
track width 168mm
4.5mm ride height
batteries full back position
parma speed 8 body
i sauce the full rear tire and inside 1/2 of front with paragon ground effects.i soak it in for 15 minutes,then i put tire tweak on top until the race.wipe it off real good and you should be set.
11-06-2006, 04:21 AM
#9839
Originally Posted by CarlosG.
Hey theisgroup, are yo going to make it for the remake of regionals? If so you will need Jason's setup for mod. 
11-06-2006, 08:09 AM
#9840
Originally Posted by Johnboy Walton
Tim, I was trying to get your setup going, but it says to use 4mm of shims under the ballstud in the rear hub carrier. I was running Parma foams, and there really isn't room for any shims at all - I put in one 2mm shim and I couldn't mount the tire. Am I missing something?
I ran it with no shims, and it was just totally planted. I ran the next-longer ballstud mount on the bulkheads, and I'd like a little more stick, so I'm going to try your location instead. But even as it was, it was the smoothest car I've every driven.
MAJOR bravo to Jason, Tim, and crew.
The T2's I was battiling with last week in my Pro4 were looking at Cyclone-powered BMI dust all last night!!
I ran it with no shims, and it was just totally planted. I ran the next-longer ballstud mount on the bulkheads, and I'd like a little more stick, so I'm going to try your location instead. But even as it was, it was the smoothest car I've every driven.
MAJOR bravo to Jason, Tim, and crew.
The T2's I was battiling with last week in my Pro4 were looking at Cyclone-powered BMI dust all last night!!
I use Parma foams also, but I use Schumacher ball ends and cut a notch in them so the wheel will not rub. The schuie ends are really tight and can be modified a bunch without worrying about them popping off.
Hope that helps. I think that I have a picture on my home pc. I'll try to remember to post it when I get home.
I usually run it 1 hole longer front and rear on the bulkhead, it just was a little better at this race shorter.
Tim