BMI Racing Discussions
#7113
Originally posted by fjm9898
i have been having problems with my bmi Tc3. every time i so much a tap a wall the steering becomes unallined. now i know its not my servo because i have put in a new one and it does the same thing and the servo doesnt do that with my FT tc3. i made sure all the screws on the servo and stearing rack were tight and its still doing it. does anyone have an idea as to what is going on and have a solution?
i have been having problems with my bmi Tc3. every time i so much a tap a wall the steering becomes unallined. now i know its not my servo because i have put in a new one and it does the same thing and the servo doesnt do that with my FT tc3. i made sure all the screws on the servo and stearing rack were tight and its still doing it. does anyone have an idea as to what is going on and have a solution?
#7114
Originally posted by fjm9898
i have been having problems with my bmi Tc3. every time i so much a tap a wall the steering becomes unallined. now i know its not my servo because i have put in a new one and it does the same thing and the servo doesnt do that with my FT tc3. i made sure all the screws on the servo and stearing rack were tight and its still doing it. does anyone have an idea as to what is going on and have a solution?
i have been having problems with my bmi Tc3. every time i so much a tap a wall the steering becomes unallined. now i know its not my servo because i have put in a new one and it does the same thing and the servo doesnt do that with my FT tc3. i made sure all the screws on the servo and stearing rack were tight and its still doing it. does anyone have an idea as to what is going on and have a solution?
I've also heard of people:
A) stripping the servo horn as mentioned above
B) having a stripped ball cup that compresses when you hit stuff
C) having a ball stud on the steering rack that has oblonged it's hole (happened to me once)
good luck... let us know what you find.
#7115
Originally posted by Jon Kerr
The BMi2 runs $110. You get the bottom and top deck. The quality of the machining is awesome.
The BMi2 runs $110. You get the bottom and top deck. The quality of the machining is awesome.
I am currently using the Teemu Chassis, but the front is starting to delaminate after a major head on hit when a marhsall put another competitors car on the track right in front of mine as I was going flat out.
Is the chassis a narrow version, like the Teemu Chassis and are the battery slots in a fixed position a la Teemu or to take the ladder and therfore adjustable?
That's why I would like to see a pic
#7117
Tech Champion
iTrader: (17)
The BMi2 has the fixed battery like Tim said and is very slim. The battery cut outs are pre beveled and the workmanship is great. The top deck is very stiff and really makes the car much more stiff than the stock chassis. I never ran the Teemu chassis so I'm not sure how it compares to it. Unfortunatly I don't have a picture of the BMi2 car. It's got a stock chassis on it right now along with a BMi top deck I'm testing for Jason. I'll take a picture of the bare chassis and top deck for you when I get home.
#7118
Thanks guys,
by the sounds of it a couple of these chassis's could be on their way over the sea for my team mate and me.
by the sounds of it a couple of these chassis's could be on their way over the sea for my team mate and me.
#7119
Xray05 chassis...
Jason to be honest, why would you pay another $100-140 for a chassis that is not much different than the stock one. Personally, I would rather see a mix between a RDX and a Xray05. Imagine a conversion kit with a RDX upper deck knockoff having the belts over/under the upper deck so that it could be lower. Then imagine having new aluminum front/rear bulkheads simple like a Xray but more like a RDX that are lower, revamp it with a removable spur like the RDX, make it with two peice bulkheads (like a XXX-S) so that you could remove the diffs quicker, have vertical camber plots (like a TC4) in the bulkheads, 3mm titanium color chassis, upper deck and shock towers. Now that would be worth getting in my book. Otherwise why not just spend the extra $35 and get the wider Xray upper deck. If you want to sell more of these things make it worth wild. My two cents.
Last edited by RCknight; 05-11-2005 at 11:50 PM.
#7123
RC Knight,
the top deck can not be any lower because of the steering rack for starter.the rdx is a nice car but it is a rdx.i dont want to make all new bulheads,steering rack and so on. neither would i like to do the same for the xray.the name coversion kit is just that.a chassis conversion kit fits the stock parts while enhancing performance.yes it would be cool to do what you are talking about but after people spend alot of money on a car they are not gonna be happy with spending a ton of money to upgrade to a conversion that only utilizes a few things from the origional.now if you consider the price of my kits compared to the rest of the kits,its not very expensive.i try to keep my prices as low as possible and finest quality.i did make a few changhes to the xray kit,i didnt make it an rdx but i did make a few changes.thanks for the interest and info though.
the top deck can not be any lower because of the steering rack for starter.the rdx is a nice car but it is a rdx.i dont want to make all new bulheads,steering rack and so on. neither would i like to do the same for the xray.the name coversion kit is just that.a chassis conversion kit fits the stock parts while enhancing performance.yes it would be cool to do what you are talking about but after people spend alot of money on a car they are not gonna be happy with spending a ton of money to upgrade to a conversion that only utilizes a few things from the origional.now if you consider the price of my kits compared to the rest of the kits,its not very expensive.i try to keep my prices as low as possible and finest quality.i did make a few changhes to the xray kit,i didnt make it an rdx but i did make a few changes.thanks for the interest and info though.
#7124
no problem...
Yea, a guy would have to put a little effort into it. It's not a quick, easy, buck, as copying a chassis and changing the upper deck some. New bulkheads would make most of the changes I talked about, other than the upper deck. I'm sure it wouldn't be hard to make some sort of steering device. I'm just bringing up a product idea. I think a customer could buy the conversion kit around $170- $200 and have $200 left over for diffs, bearings, arms, wheel hubs, cvds and wheel hexes. Never priced it all, but it could be cheaper. I just wish someone would gather all the good points about each chassis design and make a super kit. I guess I'll have to go to schpool for auto CAD, start my own business and make it myself. Yea it's work, but I don't think taking a good design and making it better is so bad. I can swallow my pride and laugh my way to the bank.
Anyway, just a thought, its your business and I'm just tring to help.
Anyway, just a thought, its your business and I'm just tring to help.
#7125
Tech Regular
Re: no problem...
Originally posted by RCknight
Yea, a guy would have to put a little effort into it.
Yea, a guy would have to put a little effort into it.
Originally posted by RCknight
I'm just bringing up a product idea. I think a customer could buy the conversion kit around $170- $200 and have $200 left over for diffs, bearings, arms, wheel hubs, cvds and wheel hexes. [/B]
I'm just bringing up a product idea. I think a customer could buy the conversion kit around $170- $200 and have $200 left over for diffs, bearings, arms, wheel hubs, cvds and wheel hexes. [/B]
Originally posted by RCknight I guess I'll have to go to schpool for auto CAD, start my own business and make it myself. [/B]
why dont you just right xray or losi etc, heckle them and tell them to get it right from the start and jason wouldnt have to come up with his chassis.