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Old 03-03-2002, 01:17 PM
  #46  
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Danny, What tray do you recommend. I have some smh's that are 6 months old and they not good at all. I'm only getting 2200 to 2400 mah discharging them on my turbo 35BL. I don't know what to do. The voltage seems okay but there is no run time. Let me know. Also, I have noticed that the Turbo does not tell you the mah's that has been put in to the batteries during charge but the millenium does and I think the integy 16 x 5 does. Is that something that I want in a charger? What do you recommend?

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Old 03-04-2002, 09:43 AM
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picco007: I use Integy trays that have no cutoff diodes.

As far as chargers that have mAh readings on the charge it's just bells and whistles. You can't really judge the true capacity of a pack by the amount of charge it accepted. The only tru way is on a constant amp discharge. Then way these companies get the mAh reading is by doing a formula which consists of charge time in seconds and amps at which the pack is charged.

The CE chargers have the time a pack took to charge in seconds so basically it has the same features.
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Old 03-04-2002, 04:52 PM
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Thanks Danny, can I buy the integy trays like that or do i have to modify them. I noticed that integy has many different types of trays. I'll look into getting a couple. As far as run time on the 3000 smh's. Is there something I can do to help the run time increase from 2200 mah's. thanks for your help
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Old 03-05-2002, 07:57 AM
  #49  
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Yes Integy has way to many models of trays. Just get one they should all be similar.

As far as SMH's go they tend to lose runtime and once it's gone it seems like there is nothing to do about it.
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Old 03-05-2002, 01:50 PM
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Danny: I've got a question on batteries and there #'s. Why do some companies show #'s at 20 amp discharge and others show #'s at 30 amp. I've been told that cells that have been tested at 20 amps will have lower #'s at 30 amps. The reason I'm asking is jsut bought 2 packs at 30 amp rates that are lower #'s than some I have at 20 amp's. Whitch are better?

Mike
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Old 03-06-2002, 08:44 AM
  #51  
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mwaeracer: Matching at 30 amps weeds out the cells better especially for todays racing where we use better tires , motors and cars.

Because the cells get discharged at 30 amps this equals to 50 % more load than 20 amps so the capacity and voltage will be lower because the current is being pulled from the cell faster.

Here is a way of comparing but it's not 100% accurate especially for voltage because the internal resistance has allot to do on how much voltage a cell will have from one amp rate to the next.

For runtime you can multiply it by the amps at which it was discharged and then divide by the amps you want to compare to.

Example: 355 @ 30 = what @ 20

355 x 30 = 10650 divide by 20 = 532.5


Voltage is not as precise and it all depends on the voltage and resistance of the cells.

On lower voltage cells the difference between 20 and 30 amps is higher than on higher voltage cells.

Examples: This would roughly be the difference with RC3000HV's.
Different cell types will react differently.

1.12 = 1.17

1.13 = 1.175

1.14 = 1.18

1.15 = 1.185


As you can see the higher voltage cells don't have as much difference from 20 to 30 amps this is because they have better internal resistance so the voltage drop isn't as much.
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Old 03-19-2002, 08:03 PM
  #52  
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Danny/SMC,


Hello. I am going to be taking a break from r/c racing for a while, and have some 3000 HV's that I use for Mod 1/12 scale. I am wondering what the best method is to store them so when I take them out of hibernation, they'll be just as kick-kiester as before. Currently, I am rotating them in with my brother's packs in his car every other week to keep them up. During their off week I discharge them on a Real Time 2 discharger only until the bulbs get really dim, but don't go out. Is this a good practice? Some advice that I have had from other people with the same batteries includes anywhere to leaving them fully charged to discharging them completely. I don't have a meter or anything to measure voltage, and the really dim bulbs on the discharger seem to be working for now, My brother's car has the same performance and runtime as his batteries. I just don't want to mistreat them, you know? They have been a godsend since day one.

Thank you in advance for any help.
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Old 03-20-2002, 08:37 AM
  #53  
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Dave: So far the HV's have proven to have good shelf life. I would store them discharged and once every 4-6 weeks I would cycle them as a precaution.
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Old 03-20-2002, 08:37 PM
  #54  
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Hi Danny,

Have you replied to my recent e-mail? I seem to be having trouble?


[email protected]
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Old 03-21-2002, 05:08 AM
  #55  
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Danny, do you have any comments on the new battery the big "T" just anounced yesterday?
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Old 03-22-2002, 09:08 AM
  #56  
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I'm starting to get into drag racing where the battery requirements are different that that of my sedan, since runtime is now not really a concern what are my best choices for cells my runtime is now in the 2-3 second range so i am looking for the most amperage and voltage that i can get....any ideas or imput?
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Old 03-22-2002, 10:43 AM
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Kraig: No comments until I can test them.

myclod: I would suggest the RC-1700 which is a cheaper cell with good voltage.
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Old 04-03-2002, 06:00 PM
  #58  
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Default 3000HV

... in your testing and experience with the HV, is their any signs of changing in voltage and runtime? do they improve, hold up or degrade over time? if any, how much? what should we expect from a new cell over time ( like after 3 months or 6...)?

thanks
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Old 04-04-2002, 09:55 AM
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stik: I have yet to see a cell improve over time. That being said we have seen many different scenarios with the HV's. I have some drivers who have reported that their packs have stayed relatively stable and others have reported that theirs have degraded. In the end I think that it all depends on maintenance and racing conditions. Example: mod Sedan should be allot harder than stock Sedan.

I hope to have a maintenance update on our website up by the weekend.
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Old 04-19-2002, 01:37 AM
  #60  
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Default DANNY, WHAT DO YOU THINK OF THIS ROUTINE?

I have been cycling my pack using the formatting routine done by the orbit microlader charger with great success.

First, I cycle my packs when I am unable to race for two weeks or more. I try to cycle every two weeks hence.

Secondly, the system I use is as follows:

300ma for charging with .04 threshold
5 amp discharge (lower up to 300 ma if your discharger will allow it)

I do one cycle on my turbo 30. The reason I have adopted this routine is because it does not stress my packs to much at the same time conditioning the cells. I am banking on the fact that nimh cells do not have memory and thus the low charge and discharge rate will not affect the performance of my cells.

I still charge at 5-6 amps .04v for my races.

thus far, my orion hv packs have kept their capacity, IR and voltage.

By the way, one cycle takes about 8 hours. I just leave the turbo to do it while I'm sleeping or when I go to work in the morning.

Your thoughts on this routine requested.

Thanks!

Rgds JT
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