How is the SG Drifting Scene?
07-03-2013, 10:32 PM
#16
https://www.facebook.com/Hobbyspacerc
http://www.youtube.com/watch?gl=SG&h...xMQ&nomobile=1
07-03-2013, 10:42 PM
#17
Not only our gear vintage, driver also vintage.
Yes YIDM in singapore should be a big event depending on how it is going to be arrange. I may be wrong on this info that i going to quote but is from what i heard. "there is only 50 seats for local racer" therefore you are seeing many fighting to climb in the rank and stay afloat within the 50s.
Yes currently only Yokomo kit must have the ID sticker due to PROVE OF ORIGIN purchase in the region of Malaysia, Singapore, Indonesia etc. meaning all having the stock from Hobby Haven (Main Distributor) will have this sticker.
Yes currently only Yokomo kit must have the ID sticker due to PROVE OF ORIGIN purchase in the region of Malaysia, Singapore, Indonesia etc. meaning all having the stock from Hobby Haven (Main Distributor) will have this sticker.
As for the gearing, you may have started like me. cause all the while in our mind is Kyosho, tamiya etc etc therefore i do not really think into 3rd parties.
Setting up is a bit similar to touring. the setting for for grip theory is the same. the alignment is almost the same.
the most important thing is on touring u set ur kit not to twit but drifting u need it to twit.
What kit u had bought that cause your dilemma?
Setting up is a bit similar to touring. the setting for for grip theory is the same. the alignment is almost the same.
the most important thing is on touring u set ur kit not to twit but drifting u need it to twit.
What kit u had bought that cause your dilemma?
From researching forums, it seems different people have different settings for the same chassis. It is all very confusing.
Some run their suspension thick oil hard spring front, thin oil soft spring rear. Some exactly the opposite! Some need alot of steering lock, some say steering mods for more lock is unnecessary. The list goes on and adds to my confusion.
I have rebuilt my shock a few time to try different settings but still can't get the car to behave how I think it should.
So now at this turning point, seeing that this chassis is not "official" for race. I am wondering should I spend more time and $$ on it, or just get a "official" chassis.
Below is the chassis, 3Racing Sakura Zero S
hxxp://i43.tinypic.com/2mounw3.jpg
(Can't post picture)
I am thinking of going into comp but there is too many things and reason that i tell myself i am not going into it again as in singapore this thing will forever there and no way to resolve that is why i just play with friends and the key word is to have fun and more fun. that all.
07-03-2013, 11:04 PM
#18
07-03-2013, 11:36 PM
#19
Bro u staying which part of boonlay?
07-04-2013, 12:02 AM
#20
07-04-2013, 12:21 AM
#22
07-04-2013, 12:26 AM
#23
Oh Co's my fren stay nearby u can try play at hobbyspace
07-04-2013, 12:32 AM
#24
07-04-2013, 08:23 PM
#25
Titan75 <---- U had shown yr age here i believe keke
joke aside. your answer in red
Street Revo used to hold races at their Bt Batok track? Now moved to Funan no more track.
Not only our gear vintage, driver also vintage.
Well although the track is gone. Street revo did not give up on us. although is a shop in funan center, there is no track, but they are still focusing on carpet track as before. so far 2 or 3 times comp for open chassis at funan center near the mcdonald event area.
they had even have their comp at the latest Japan Salon event.
So those using Enroute and MST will be able to take part in YIDM when they place top 50?
Well this is not a answer that i can answer but the distributor. Rules are set by them. After all is YIDM, is stated yokomo international normally we will feel only yokomo kits are allow only. as you can see many of the taking part person are using yokomo kit after all.
I can set the basic settings, Toe-in/out, camber, ride height, droop, etc. I understand their functions individually, but as a whole, what does a well tuned CS chassis feel like, I have no idea. Thus, no benchmark to aim for. I see the YouTube videos on the CS drifters, very fluid and smooth. I want my car to behave like that but no idea how.
Many times you find it smooth and easy to drift and it may not when you are handling the controller. basically is we normally set to individual end user style instead of one type.
this is the different between because different style behave differently. just like those heavy trottle like me, i have to set my kit like under power in order to run smooth. the most important on drifting is spring and shocks setting after all.
From researching forums, it seems different people have different settings for the same chassis. It is all very confusing.
Do not confuse as different style of playing there is different setting.
surface to run, tires etc
Some run their suspension thick oil hard spring front, thin oil soft spring rear. Some exactly the opposite! Some need alot of steering lock, some say steering mods for more lock is unnecessary. The list goes on and adds to my confusion.
for the shocks thing, commonly using is rear soft and front medium or hard.
what i do is thin oil front and thick oil rear. reason is to make the rear shocks when drifting on one side the rebound slower. because if the rebound is fast the tail tends to try to counter back the drift and you will be like a snake moving side way.
I understand is hard to understand over this thing but this is more of a trial and error thing to see which u realli prefer. there is no restriction on this.
for me I love chassis balance front and rear almost same weight or the rear heavier with the battery. is easiler to set and control. that is for me. the rest i do not know.
I have rebuilt my shock a few time to try different settings but still can't get the car to behave how I think it should.
maybe if you can drop by some famous drift meet, some one to help u on that will be great. Looking at your car picture, it should not be a problem to get this machine drifting.
steering angle play a part. you can have default 35 - 40 degree steering or even wider. there is some playing with small angles but with big angles it also help in terms of more of a choice thing. like mine, 50% but i used max maybe 45 degree or even lesser in fact. Famous DM place i can name a fewlike East side drifter, Longvale and many more.
So now at this turning point, seeing that this chassis is not "official" for race. I am wondering should I spend more time and $$ on it, or just get a "official" chassis.
well, Official or not is no longer important to me. because as long as u got a group of fun pple playing this hobby with you. you will enjoy it. comp is just for a status etc. furthermore is just a additional thing which have is so much better do not have also does not matter. reason for this thinking is hard to explain in word.
Below is the chassis, 3Racing Sakura Zero S
Help you post
joke aside. your answer in red
Street Revo used to hold races at their Bt Batok track? Now moved to Funan no more track.
Not only our gear vintage, driver also vintage.
Well although the track is gone. Street revo did not give up on us. although is a shop in funan center, there is no track, but they are still focusing on carpet track as before. so far 2 or 3 times comp for open chassis at funan center near the mcdonald event area.
they had even have their comp at the latest Japan Salon event.
So those using Enroute and MST will be able to take part in YIDM when they place top 50?
Well this is not a answer that i can answer but the distributor. Rules are set by them. After all is YIDM, is stated yokomo international normally we will feel only yokomo kits are allow only. as you can see many of the taking part person are using yokomo kit after all.
I can set the basic settings, Toe-in/out, camber, ride height, droop, etc. I understand their functions individually, but as a whole, what does a well tuned CS chassis feel like, I have no idea. Thus, no benchmark to aim for. I see the YouTube videos on the CS drifters, very fluid and smooth. I want my car to behave like that but no idea how.
Many times you find it smooth and easy to drift and it may not when you are handling the controller. basically is we normally set to individual end user style instead of one type.
this is the different between because different style behave differently. just like those heavy trottle like me, i have to set my kit like under power in order to run smooth. the most important on drifting is spring and shocks setting after all.
From researching forums, it seems different people have different settings for the same chassis. It is all very confusing.
Do not confuse as different style of playing there is different setting.
surface to run, tires etc
Some run their suspension thick oil hard spring front, thin oil soft spring rear. Some exactly the opposite! Some need alot of steering lock, some say steering mods for more lock is unnecessary. The list goes on and adds to my confusion.
for the shocks thing, commonly using is rear soft and front medium or hard.
what i do is thin oil front and thick oil rear. reason is to make the rear shocks when drifting on one side the rebound slower. because if the rebound is fast the tail tends to try to counter back the drift and you will be like a snake moving side way.
I understand is hard to understand over this thing but this is more of a trial and error thing to see which u realli prefer. there is no restriction on this.
for me I love chassis balance front and rear almost same weight or the rear heavier with the battery. is easiler to set and control. that is for me. the rest i do not know.
I have rebuilt my shock a few time to try different settings but still can't get the car to behave how I think it should.
maybe if you can drop by some famous drift meet, some one to help u on that will be great. Looking at your car picture, it should not be a problem to get this machine drifting.
steering angle play a part. you can have default 35 - 40 degree steering or even wider. there is some playing with small angles but with big angles it also help in terms of more of a choice thing. like mine, 50% but i used max maybe 45 degree or even lesser in fact. Famous DM place i can name a fewlike East side drifter, Longvale and many more.
So now at this turning point, seeing that this chassis is not "official" for race. I am wondering should I spend more time and $$ on it, or just get a "official" chassis.
well, Official or not is no longer important to me. because as long as u got a group of fun pple playing this hobby with you. you will enjoy it. comp is just for a status etc. furthermore is just a additional thing which have is so much better do not have also does not matter. reason for this thinking is hard to explain in word.
Below is the chassis, 3Racing Sakura Zero S
Help you post
07-04-2013, 11:22 PM
#26
Serpent, Thks.
Very informative stuff.
Any idea whr and whenthe East side drifters gather n play?
Very informative stuff.
Any idea whr and whenthe East side drifters gather n play?
07-04-2013, 11:35 PM
#27
of course if you want to find me, I can try my best to help too.
07-05-2013, 12:11 AM
#28
Thanks for the detailed reply. Online forums are good because of people like you.
As you mentioned you heavy on the throttle, I find that controlled throttle drift slow.
Maybe you can share setting for using more throttle for rear motor/side battery chassis like mine?
07-05-2013, 01:13 AM
#29
I want find you!! How?
Thanks for the detailed reply. Online forums are good because of people like you.
As you mentioned you heavy on the throttle, I find that controlled throttle drift slow.
Maybe you can share setting for using more throttle for rear motor/side battery chassis like mine?
Thanks for the detailed reply. Online forums are good because of people like you.
As you mentioned you heavy on the throttle, I find that controlled throttle drift slow.
Maybe you can share setting for using more throttle for rear motor/side battery chassis like mine?
those setting for heavy trottle like me is play more on ratio and also the motor T.
07-05-2013, 02:10 AM
#30
My current electronics are Hobbywing WP60A/4300KV 8.5T
Pinion: 19T/Spur: 81T
Front One Way: 38T / Center Pulley: 16T
Rear Spool: 30T / Center Pully: 22T
If my maths not wrong is CS 174%, CS FDR 7.43