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Newbies Queries - Ask and you shall be answered!

Old 06-23-2003, 09:34 PM
  #16  
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Here's one other newbie question.

What's the "best" motor out in the market that the mechanical spd control that comes packaged with the Tamiya car can tahan?
Some 23t motors or the Tamiya sport tuned?

Saw the Eagle stock motor at rotor's, Is it any better than the stock 540s or the Tamiya sport tuned.
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Old 06-24-2003, 08:25 PM
  #17  
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Originally posted by Tronky
What's the "best" motor out in the market that the mechanical spd control that comes packaged with the Tamiya car can tahan?
Some 23t motors or the Tamiya sport tuned?
Tamiya MSC boleh tahan just about any motor, AS LONG AS you don't drive slow!

Have used motors in the mid-teens with MSC, just keep it clean and it'll keep working well. Just don't play your car indoors or lend it to any beginner to practise with; drive at full speed all the time and it'll survive.

(btw... "2nd speed" heats up the resistor the Most!! )

Oh ya... important warning to watch out for is "runaway car". You know, when your pack is dumping the motor can draw enough amps to drop the voltage enough to stop your RX & servos working. With hotter motor this happens earlier... and your car will runaway at a higher speed too.

Eagle stock ... Is it any better than the stock 540s or the Tamiya sport tuned.
Stock 540 and SportTuned motors give very good torque... you can gear them sky high for some pretty impressive top speeds. And they're very low maintenance.

23t "Jap stock" is really a mild-mod... real ROAR stockers are 27t with 24 deg timing. The 23t will give a little better performance than a SportTuned certainly, if you gear them correctly. But they will complain about being overgeared and will suck a lot of juice but not make much 'go'.
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Old 06-25-2003, 06:39 PM
  #18  
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Hey WC, thanks for the enlightenment!! Had lost touch with electrics after all these years.

Learnt my lesson on Tue! I'm currently "powering" the RX with a rx battery pack. Though it weighs the car down, it provides an added insurance. Gosh, luckily the stock motor's very slow, managed to run after the car when I first ran it.

I made some enquiries yesterday on motors. In ur opinion, are the Tamiya stockers, the type Rs or Type Ts comparable to the 23t "Jap stock" ?
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Old 06-25-2003, 07:14 PM
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I made some enquiries yesterday on motors. In ur opinion, are the Tamiya stockers, the type Rs or Type Ts comparable to the 23t "Jap stock" ? [/B][/QUOTE]

yes, they are comparable to the 23t 'Jap stock'. remember tamiya is also from japan, so they have to comply to JMRCA 23t motor rules as well.
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Old 06-25-2003, 08:19 PM
  #20  
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re Tamiya motors, it gets a little more complicated than that, you need to check the exact model number you're talking about.

These are all the Tamiya 23t motors:


53476 Super Stock Type-R 23x1 lay down

53477 Super Stock Type-T 23x1 normal

49247 Super Stock Type-S 23x1 normal REBUILDABLE

49260 Super Stock Type-RR 23x1 lay-down REBUILDABLE

53272 Dyna-Run Racing Stock 23x1 normal



There is also differences in opinion whether or not the SportTuned is a 23t. Most common consensus is that the Euro guys get 23t, Asia-Pacific gets 27t.
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Old 06-26-2003, 01:57 AM
  #21  
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I'm actually looking at both the:

53476 Super Stock Type-R 23x1 lay down
53477 Super Stock Type-T 23x1 normal

Best price I got was $47 bux which is pretty expensive relative to other stockers. That's why I'm seeking opinions on the motors. I dun want to invest in those cheaper alternatives only to buy a Tamiya motor few days later.

Made the mistakes years back with my nitros, shd had juz gone for OS and Novas, but I wanted to be cheap, had refused advice and got 2 diff brands of Taiwanese engines instead to save a few bucks. Thot all 12 size, shd prob offer the same performace, boy was I wrong! Finally ended after some trial and error, I still ended up with novas.

Now I'm trying to be cheap again. Am looking at the Eagle 23t stock.
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Old 06-26-2003, 06:41 AM
  #22  
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Default Best Delta Peak?

Hi,

Anyone able to advise on the Best Delta Peak setting for Sanyo 3000 HV cells (6) ?? Best as in the compromise of optimum runtime, battery life and punch...... btw I using the LRP Pulsar Comp charger...........

Thanks!

ps to the post above mine, for stock motor, the Yokomo Tmax is only ard $40 and I think its a good motor and I saw at winnies tamiya stock T $35-39 Goodluck!
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Old 06-27-2003, 12:27 PM
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hey does anyone know how long is a TL01 dogbone for the front and rear? how about a TB01? i need replacement dogbones/universals for my TA01 so i looking around....

btw anyone know if i can use a TL01 prop shaft also? anyone know the length?
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Old 06-27-2003, 06:51 PM
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Default hovercraft

i made a hovercraft that if r/c
it is really fast for something not made from a kit and built by a beginner sorry amatuer.
it uses dual lrp 15t mod motors 1 for lifft and 1 for thrust.
a quantum super reverse by lrp is my thrust speed ontroller and for lift i use a maxx flying 30A speed control from rotor.the whole craft if 105 cm by 52 cm.
it uses nylon ground sheet for the skirt.
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Old 06-28-2003, 08:31 AM
  #25  
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Hi all,

This my first post and as I dont know much please excuse me... I wanted to get into R/C and got this car from someone... Its a MP6 with .oz rbz like what he said without any electronics for $170.. I would like to know whether its a good deal or wad? Erm, if possible can anybody like meet up and tell me wad i need to change or like tell me whether its a good buy or wad? Its been lying here quite some time already liao... I want to start the car soon but i dont know what i need to do.. I bought the car without thinking much actually..
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Old 06-28-2003, 09:36 AM
  #26  
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Hi,

is it a buggy MP 6 and engine??

But for this MP 6 ..it quite sometime back...
It don't have any spare parts....if you break something...ur MP 6 will be up to the shelf for display....

And moreover for the engine... do it got compression?

Advice is buy something that have parts...if you break it ..you can still get parts from local LHS....

This is my 2 cent of thinking.

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Old 06-28-2003, 10:45 AM
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Originally posted by Newguy
Hi all,

This my first post and as I dont know much please excuse me... I wanted to get into R/C and got this car from someone... Its a MP6 with .oz rbz like what he said without any electronics for $170.. I would like to know whether its a good deal or wad? Erm, if possible can anybody like meet up and tell me wad i need to change or like tell me whether its a good buy or wad? Its been lying here quite some time already liao... I want to start the car soon but i dont know what i need to do.. I bought the car without thinking much actually..
Can say is a good deal, provided the engine is still workable...becos the engine new one is already 350.

As for MP6, I think that was about 4 years back model...If you intend to play for fun, I still got alot of spare for this kit.
I got 2 MP5 EVO which share the same parts is only MP6 chassis slightly longer.

DO contact me if you one for further discuss.....96177217
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Old 06-28-2003, 08:29 PM
  #28  
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Default Car pulls to right

Hello folks

Got a V1S. The problem I have is that whenever I accelerate fast, the car pulls to the right. It runs straight if I drive it slowly.


Anyone gurus out there got the answer?

Thanks!
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Old 06-29-2003, 09:08 PM
  #29  
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Originally posted by renben
hey does anyone know how long is a TL01 dogbone for the front and rear? how about a TB01? i need replacement dogbones/universals for my TA01 so i looking around....
I think TL01, TB01 & TA04 all use the same length dogbone.

Not sure if TA01 can use same parts.

btw anyone know if i can use a TL01 prop shaft also? anyone know the length?
TA01 uses "MantaRay" propshaft (looks like Boomerang's wire thingy with hooked "?" ends).

TL01 propshaft is totally different, this is a solid 5mm steel rod. No way it can be interchanged.
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Old 07-02-2003, 09:19 PM
  #30  
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Hi there,
I am breaking in my new RB12T engine pretty soon. Just whether how many % of nitro should I use and which brand of fuel should I use that can give me both performance & protection!
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