wangcc61

Hot plug will give you more stable idling.
But there are many reasons keeping the engine from starting. Such as low battery glow starter, rich bottom setting, engine flooded, idle too low...etc.

Since you found lots of oil coming out of the pipe, you can try this. Make sure the fuel is in the fuel line. Pinch the fuel line when you start the engine. If you can feel the engine wants to start, then, your bottom end setting is abit rich. you can either lean the bottom out of raise the idle.

Hope this helps.

NitroOB4You

iTrader: (36)

Ok...over the past w/end...I tried to start the break in process on my LD3/STS D5. I believe my carb may be messed up.It seems to be "gritty" if I try to open/close it and sometimes it doesn't even close with the servo movement. I know I shoulda stopped dead in my tracks and maybe posted then and see if I could get some help/info...but Im impatient
Anyhoo....I fiddled a bit with it and the linkage and got it to what seemed a happy medium. Once I got it started, it seemed ok for a minute or two. Now after that, the idle gets very erratic. Mostly it '
gets extremely high and doesn't want to come down unless I fiddle with the Th/Trim on the radio. A friend helped some, and again we thought it was ok.I started the engine and for a lil bit longer, the idle stayed fine.Then again, it slowly got higher and higher...really screaming. I decided to try a new plug and still the same problems. I am using Wild Cat 15 % which I believe has 18% Castor, and Rex 7-go5tf plugs.Also, I have only the copper .3 shim on the head. Any help/info is greatly appreciated.
On the positive side of things....the engine starts right up almost instantly.

TOEBSTER2

iTrader: (6)

I don't know all this is starting scare me. I ran a STS last year and it worked great til I threw a rod. I thought I would give them another try this year with the new D5 but it doesn't sound much better. My friend and I both got the D5 and he said his carb was also gritty and didn't run fer S@$t! Now I'm going to run my old carb or a different motor. I didn't even break it in yet and don't want to if I have to fix it after.

wangcc61

First of all, you should have a silver (0.3mm) head shim.
The copper one is only 0.1mm thick.

My suggestions are:
1. Put the silver head shim back.
2. Rich up the Low Speed Needle a little bit (You might need to also raise the idle screw after you rich up the LSN.)

If you idle the engine for a period of time (let's say after 30 seconds), then, the RPM gets higher and higher when time goes by, that's a sign of a lean bottom end setting. If you have temp gun, check the temperature and let us know how high it is.

au_Nightmare

as wangcc61 said run the copper one, earlier instructions said to remove the silver shim and thats what I did (though I got here in my notes its .2mm ?)

TOEBSTER2, D5 is shimmed for 30% nitro, you must do the above if running on 16%. Also my Sirio .12 trp pro (acc) had that same carb feeling when new. I think its when the needle is not perfect aligned, after some normal use it became smooth. Just went and checked a brand new Novarossi carb, its not silky smooth either though im sure with some use it would be

The sirio said hello to a fence so I got the D5, I have no negitive comments on this engine ATM It goes a lot better then the sirio ever did.

Manticore

it certainly does !!

burger

The D3 arrived in the mail yesterday. Geoff at Project Zen hooked me up with the order and was very helpful. Thanks Geoff!

The motor looks good. Carb is smooth, nice header gasket. Can't wait to break it in and see what this thing will do.

J

Marcos.J

iTrader: (239)

you are lucky i cant wait to buy another sts , i had the old version the sts 3 and it was awsome , very fast,

jscamry

iTrader: (5)

could you please post some pics of the mods that are done to the Project Zen D3 when you get a chance?

I would love to see their work...

thanks Jason

wangcc61

I just talked to Dino on MSN again. Sorry for the previous post. The copper shim is 0.2mm and the silver shim is 0.3mm. Dino confiremd that. Dino also did not suggest removing the silver shim. He said at least keep the silver shim in the engine. If only the copper shim is installed in the engine, the piston might hit the bottom head....

The head shim is to adjust the compression ratio and ignition timing. The silver shim is good for 16% and 20% fuel in my opinion. All you need to do is to choose a hot plug for 16% fuel. No need to reduce the head shim, especially when the engine is new.

stefan

My D3 was shimmed to 0.6mm (0.4 alu +0.2 copper) which is way too much.

The engine wouldn't make ANY power unless it was leaned out drastically. I stopped tuning when she was starting to detonate.

I then shimmed it like a Novarossi (0.4mm total for 30%) and now she makes power even when she's slightly rich.

Too less compression is Baaaad.

Marcos.J

iTrader: (239)

thats the same way that i had my sts 3 with 30% and it ran like a jp modified!!

au_Nightmare

Running .4mm for 30% hmm Wonder what I can do for 15% then <grin>

burger

I didn't get the Projet Zen Modded version. Sorry. I probably wouldn't post pics if I did, since it's kind of an intellectual propery thing that could be reproduced if you saw the pics.

J

dino.tw

How much shims is based on altitude;barometric pressure;air density. More close to sea level you need more shims. When atmospheric depression coming you may need to take some shims off.....etc. There is no final answer. You need to try it yourself. Sometime you may run 0.4mm in the morning but 0.5mm in the afternoon......hope you can understand my poor english.