cornerspeed

****** 1000 th post ******

So since the aluminum chassis braces are released, has anyone ran them? Any feedback as to how it affected handling, good or bad?

TonysScrews

iTrader: (13)

It may be thicker but the type of aluminum and where it came from could mean a huge difference.

Briguy

iTrader: (125)

The chassis is made out of 7075 T-6 aluminum . That`s pretty darn strong aluminum and better than some other buggies chassis . You are going to have some flex , if you remove all the flex you will break arms and shock towers . I think if there was a solid or connecting solid top tray that would eliminate some of the issues people are having .

FlyByWire

iTrader: (28)

The flexing isnt killing the servo's... Read Drake's post on the trinity site, fix your linkage.. and be done.

Walt

iTrader: (2)

It should be VERY easy for the servo manufacturer, doing their 'post-mortum' examination on one of these returned servos, to determine if the servo failed due to mechanical stress on the servo case itself, verses a 'burn out' that tends to occur if end points/linkages are set up incorrectly.

Overall, it seems like there are guys here saying they've suffered servo failures who seem to know what they are doing when it comes to linkages. However, I don't know these people, so it could just be that the linkage is a little harder to set up in the 8ight and that's the root cause of these problems.

SCUBA STEVE

iTrader: (89)

The chassis definately flexes but Like I said I'm sure my servo locked up because of how hard I bottomed out, it sounded like two 2x4's getting slammed together and that was the first servo problem I've had and I have put ALOT of miles on this car....... The linkage is probably the most common cause of failure I would have to say.

Walt, I will see what they say about my servo when it get's repaired but I'm sure I probably shattered a curcuit board inside but I will keep everyone posted.....

Solara

iTrader: (17)

What are the different between both 8ight between the KIT version and the RTR version (beside the price and RTR issues...). I am just wondering who to pick.....the KIT version with better optioned car (I assumed) so I can mount better servos and engine/pipe...........or RTR is just good enough to race.

Thanks guys...........

ridgewaybodies

iTrader: (42)

From what I can tell from the pictures, the RTR has different shock towers, shock caps, engine mount and chassis. IMO, if you plan on racing, go with the kit. If you plan on bashing, go with the RTR.

Walt

iTrader: (2)

I recommend that you come out to the track this Friday night and try mine out (you can try my Revo too). What do you say Solara? Are you available? Me and E.S. will be there (unless wife says no )

SCUBA STEVE

iTrader: (89)

The kit. If your gonna race you'll will be alot better off.

Nexus

iTrader: (42)

pick me up too

Walt

iTrader: (2)

Any time Nexus! But I thought you were allergic to nitro or something???

12a_rx2

iTrader: (6)

hye guy's

i just picked up an 8ight yesterday, should finish it somtime today

i was just wondering what i might need to do before hitin the track, like is there anything i should change on it

R40Victim

iTrader: (1)

Just make sure that when you build the shocks, that you lock-tite the shafts, and give them time to dry before filling them with oil. I let mine sit over night, and they haven't come apart. I also put small bits of fuel line in the CVDs to minimize play. Make sure your end points on your throttle and steering are right, and use the rubber gromets that come with your servos for the throttle. Put them under the servo mounts, not in the mounting ears, and don't tighten them any more than you have to.

Other than that, just read through this thread, there are many suggestions, and it's well worth the time to read...

12a_rx2

iTrader: (6)

alright thanks for that i'll have a read through later on today
i just locki-tited the shock shafts so they should be ready when it come's time to put them on