syndr0me

iTrader: (32)

Whoaaaaa... time to create v2 of the setup sheet!

BlackedOutREVO

iTrader: (67)

Wow 5.02. You must have a rocket ship! Or was that what most guys ran? I thought it was in the 5.6 range

Man that esc is TINY! is that the new keyonce (sp)?

lol I always wondered that. I always ran them ()()() in my wheeler for mod. I never knew you could change the direction like that and make a difference.

Thats cool! Thanks for the info

BagofSkill

Actually, with respect, that's not right.

((() would be a progressive spring, soft then hard.

From soft to hard spring stiffness we would have:
()()() Soft
()()
()
(())((
(())
((
(((
((((
(((((
(((((( Hard


There are other combinations to give progressive springs but this probably isn't necessary in a diff as there is no displacement of the spring during working.

HTH, Chris

RC MARKET

iTrader: (12)

good note !

HenBeav

iTrader: (13)

but i read it on the internet that means it has to be right??

yeah never really thought of the progressive part, i've used the ((() with rubber tires before and it seemed to help give more initial slip, never really thought about why though, i slept through most of the classes that had to do with moving things and springs and such...

Southpaw707

Has anyone tried the Solaris tyres also from TOP racing?

Josh Cyrul

iTrader: (1)

The bevel washers were used for a few reasons. The main of which was space. I wanted to keep the thrust assembly sitting against the differential outdrive so it was packaged close enough to the pulley for the hole/slot in the diff screw to alighn for external adjustment. Also, springs never sit perfectly flat so I did not want the thrust washers to be mis-alighned against the spring face causing any sort of binding from the diff screw dragging on the ID of the spring or the thrust washers sitting crooked and dragging on the inside of the differential outdrive. Also, it was for the space in the short half. As it is now, it's already a bit too close for my comfort if you want to run a narrow rear end with the "C" blade on the universal touching on the screw/nut of the differential. With a spring, there is no way it fits but with the spring washers we have a level of spring tension adjustment with the possibility of using a much smaller package.

Sanding the rings... Some do, some don't... I'm too lazy but my diff works great.

One piece thrust... Some do (EJ), some don't (myself). I like the standard thrust and I'm sure EJ can tell you I kicked his butt in the diff war at the Reedy Race....lol... With the box stock diff!!!

The spur gear assembly locks in pretty solid so you really don't have to over tighten the screws - Remember - there is NO SIDE LOAD on this part that would require a strong assembly to keep them together. We could practically use a "snap" fit assembly that would hold it together and it would work unless you changed spurs a lot from stripping them.

Josh Cyrul

iTrader: (1)

I think someone posted something about the top deck screws - I agree that they are a little soft so I think they are trying to find a better supplier for these. The reason for them was the room around the motor/spur area and still having enough material for strengh with using the double screw per mount to help with tweaking. Really, you don't have to crank on them to keep the car from tweaking though - Remember, there is 4 screws in the back and 4 in the front with a center steering post screw... It has no where to go.

Spur gears - Of course you can run as small as the pulleys...lol.. How big depends. If you use the optional "wings" that connect through the center then a 116 is the maximum. If you take this off I think you can run a 120 (don't quote me as I'm not 100%) and possibly 124 if you slightly bevel the slot under the spur in the chassis. The possible pinion size with this I am not sure but I only recommend this for if you use the car for foam tires to move the motor forward. In rubber - center to back on the motor screw slots will provide the best performance.

Yes, I am in Lostallo Switzerland right now for the 1/8 Pre-WC but I saw so many questions on here I wanted to post what I could to help everyone out with the car.... There's a lot on it that is different so I want everyone to know how it works and why I did what I did.

JamesReilly

iTrader: (59)

That's why I have a torque wrench for all the screws now ...I know it's sick to have a screwdriver torque wrench but what the heck, it's fun! Good Luck, you evil genius LOL!!

Rod M

iTrader: (4)

yea the new Keyence Tachyon,

Size: W31mm D30mm H19mm
Weight: 35g
FET Qty: 36pcs
On Resistance: 0.24mΩ
Applicable Motor: unlimited

I started a thread here but there is still not much discussion, I must of been one of the first outside of Japan to use one? :

http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...hless-esc.html

I have a set and will try them this weekend,

John St.Amant

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for filling us in Captain.
That torque wrench screwdriver is pretty trick James!
I just might have to get one of those. Where was the discounted one you suggested ? All I can remember is the Snap-On one was $200!

syndr0me

iTrader: (32)

There's something sketchy going on with what the manual says about hingpin/toe spacers, and what comes in the kit. Basically, the parts it comes with match the kit setup, not the manual.

L.Fairtrace

iTrader: (24)

Done. Tomorrow for the virgin ride.

All I need is a body

Rod M

iTrader: (4)

I believe the main guts of the manual was completed prior to the kit setup being finalised, and they did not have time to go back and ammend the manual,

vr01

Keep an eye on the screws for the spur gear shaft. I have put some threadlock on mine because one of them came loose under acceleration / braking (10.5) causing the spur gear to be trashed.

Otherwise - all good. Car was reasonable with kit set up and won't need too many changes to get it up to the speed of my Scythe.