syndr0me

iTrader: (32)

Cone washers in the diff: (((((( ?

Out of curiosity, what's the advantage to using cone washers over a spring?

smoke81

My point wasn't that they failed.. Just saying if they do... They are there to fix it... "FAIL" on my part... My bad

Internet ftw

syndr0me

iTrader: (32)

Same issue here. Otherwise, things are great.

I notice the "wings" seem like a pretty snug fit between the bulkheads. Think we should file the ends slightly so they can flex freely?

DZ

iTrader: (4)

syndrome, that is correct, only use 4 washers instead on the given 7.

dz

Besercoe

iTrader: (9)

I wouldnt necessarily touch up the wings, as long as they are snug, but not sitting tight in between the 2 sets of bulkheads.

In the old car you needed to trim the top deck as it would bow the chassis. I have not tried to remove them again, but they were in a later step, and they all just slipped in nice.

E.J. Evans

I run the servo in the forward position. To do this you have to run spacers on the servo mount so the servo sticks out a little more, file the bell crank arm, and file the servo case. You don't have to do this if you run the servo in the rearward position. I do it because I like to get as much space between the speedo and motor (help with cooling the motor).

5.02 with a Hurricane Trinity Duo (10 degrees of timing) and 7 or 8 on the speedo (LRP SPX) I'll have to go check. I also ran two fans on the motor.

When you find out let me know! LOL I would ask Josh but he's not in the country right now.

2.5mm screws are not bad, it's the fact that you have to use a 1.5mm tip to tighten them. We are working on a 2.5mm screw that uses a 2mm wrench. We'll see how it works, I'll keep everyone posted about it.

Dustin and Chris, your kits are on the way. I believe Michael got them out today.

Couple other things: Run a servo saver with the car. I use a kimbrough black medium but there are other good ones out there. There might be some reaming required with the C hubs and also shaving from the top to make sure the insert comes all the way through.

E.J. Evans

the wings should have a somewhat snug fit. If you are having to force them in then some filing is necessary.

We over 4 different types of these wings.

TC-PCHC09 Wing Soft 2.0mm - Rubber Spec. Standard with rubber kit

PO-PCHC005 Rubber Wing Medium Set this is one piece it connects the two pieces together ("U" shape)

TC-PCHC10 Wing Hard 2.0mm - Foam Spec. Standard with foam kit

PO-PCHC006 Foam Wing Extra Hard Set this is one piece and has wings

syndr0me

iTrader: (32)

EJ,

Thanks for answering all the questions, I appreciate it. I just got done reaming out the c-hubs a bit so the steering was smooth. Glad to come here and see I'm on the right track.

Another issue I encountered is that the grub screws that go into the CVD cross-joints wouldn't work well with any of my wrenches, and didn't really want to thread. I grabbed some from the Tamiya parts bin and they worked like a charm.

I notice you guys don't mention running any kind of grease on the CVD assembly. Is it assumed you should grease them, or do you guys really run them dry?

Do you guys not run a thin washer between the hub and the CVD pin? I noticed there were two thin ones in that parts bag, but didn't see mention of them in the manual.

E.J. Evans

That's the first I've heard of the grub screw, but I've heard a lot of firsts lately. LOL I'll ask Michael to send you some.

I run light grease on the CVD's. I use this stuff called X gear, not sure where you can get it here. I've also used some of the mugen stuff, that's pretty good. Just as long as you don't use anything too thick you'll be fine.

I don't really know if it makes that big a difference if you run them on the inside or the outside of the block. I run them on the outside.

That reminds me, everyone run the thin axle spacer in the rear...you don't need any in the front. The thin axle spacer is included in the kit.

E.J. Evans

for the sway bar assembly, I glue the ball and setscrew together and not run the 2mm spacer. This make is easier to adjust the sway bar.

E.J. Evans

Picture of the servo in my car in the forward position.

mrrcguy

iTrader: (25)

Whew! What a week it has been. I have personally built or (heavily helped build) FIVE Photons so far this week.

One for me, and the rest are local racers.

So far things are going great. No real issues. Ill leave a build tip or two tomorrow after getting some sleep.

Thanks to Josh and all of the T.O.P. Team who has helped to get this car together. I am truly impressed. And whats even better is when the price of this kit and it's parts are considered, Im even more impressed.

CraigM

iTrader: (34)

I just got back from doing some testing at the track and I'm pretty happy with the results. I got to try all 3 ackerman settings, some front and rear RC changes, and I also tried running hole 1 on the front arm (which worked great). By the time I was done I really had the car hooking. The cars first event is this weekend, I'll post a setup if it goes well

John St.Amant

iTrader: (1)

I think the cone washers are more cost effective and are not subject to coil bind. Where as the washers can be stacked accordingly to load conditions and adjustibility. Or something like that

Rod M

iTrader: (4)

all my electrics are in and did not need to double stack anything,