2LikesRc10ntc3
10-13-2003, 10:12 AM
#5311
i run a 20-27with a 48-54 ,to make up for that gap,i noticed the same thing,you would think it wouldnt work right but it does.take off your clucht bell,an take out the two two speed and size them up.the mesh is way better with pinions i use.
10-13-2003, 10:16 AM
#5312
hey fuzz,that pipe u got is your whole problem,i got one too.its garbage,throw your stock pipe on it ,an cut bout three eights in off the header
10-13-2003, 10:24 AM
#5313
Thanks for the help with the tires guys. Really appreciate it.
Anyways, I was giving my NTC3 a stare down and noticed that for the first time everything on the car seemed to "fit". I can't see anything else I would need for it other than maybe an RD pipe. You guys figure out any new/tips with the car since this past summer?
Anyways, I was giving my NTC3 a stare down and noticed that for the first time everything on the car seemed to "fit". I can't see anything else I would need for it other than maybe an RD pipe. You guys figure out any new/tips with the car since this past summer?
10-13-2003, 06:17 PM
#5314
gear mesh
InitialD,
still confused if i'll get 20/24 pinions or 20/26 as you mentioned. but our track is technical and just one straight. i wanted low end torque for fast cornering but not sacrificing much top end. i am thinking if i really needed 20/26 since since the straight is not that long(roughly 50 meters). if ever i get 20/26 can i adjust my 2 speed for it to adjust sooner to maximize the 26 pinion in straight? or 20/24 is suitable since by the time the car finish the straight there would be not enough space for it to be used. looking forward to your reply.
intimidator,
i'm considering the pipe too as an option, thanks for the suggestion.
still confused if i'll get 20/24 pinions or 20/26 as you mentioned. but our track is technical and just one straight. i wanted low end torque for fast cornering but not sacrificing much top end. i am thinking if i really needed 20/26 since since the straight is not that long(roughly 50 meters). if ever i get 20/26 can i adjust my 2 speed for it to adjust sooner to maximize the 26 pinion in straight? or 20/24 is suitable since by the time the car finish the straight there would be not enough space for it to be used. looking forward to your reply.
intimidator,
i'm considering the pipe too as an option, thanks for the suggestion.
10-13-2003, 06:55 PM
#5315
Intimidator, 20 tooth pinion on a K Factory Centax?
Originally posted by intimidator
i run a 20-27with a 48-54 ,to make up for that gap,i noticed the same thing,you would think it wouldnt work right but it does.take off your clucht bell,an take out the two two speed and size them up.the mesh is way better with pinions i use.
i run a 20-27with a 48-54 ,to make up for that gap,i noticed the same thing,you would think it wouldnt work right but it does.take off your clucht bell,an take out the two two speed and size them up.the mesh is way better with pinions i use.
If you can lead me to where I might get the 20 tooth pinion for the centax I'd really appreciate it. I used to run a 20/26 pinion and 48/54 spur on my 3 shoe, before I switched to the centax.
Is there a web site? Trinity/K Factory does not make a 20 tooth for the centax.
10-13-2003, 07:04 PM
#5316
Tech Addict
iTrader: (4)
Steering bind
Been very busy lately, never got a chance to try and fix the bind. acutally bought new balls for the hubs, but never put them on. I finally got a chance to mix it up last Sat. Weren't too many tc3s there. One of the locals commenting to his friend about my car, was saying how I didn't have any topend, then put down all tc3 as not being able to run on the large track we were at. That is why belt driven cars are better. All I have to say is I still love this car. We were racing on a hugh lot, set up for the 1/8s. Yes, out of the top touring cars, I did have one of the slower topends there, but once we went into all the turns, I more than made up for the straight with my slow tc3.
. Even was dusting most impacts. I finally got a chance to race with the road domes and road rails. I kind of like them. They do not take up too much space since they are stackable when you take them down.Not as hard on your car as the wood, but you can launch like a rocket when you make a mistake. Have any of you used them and what do you think. Just wish theys were cheaper.
. Even was dusting most impacts. I finally got a chance to race with the road domes and road rails. I kind of like them. They do not take up too much space since they are stackable when you take them down.Not as hard on your car as the wood, but you can launch like a rocket when you make a mistake. Have any of you used them and what do you think. Just wish theys were cheaper.
10-13-2003, 07:21 PM
#5317
johnsoa,i have the stock clutch on my car,i just assumed they made a twenty for your clutch.you know though everyone tells me all the centaxes out for the t-c3 arent as good as the stock clutch.id stick with it,just a suggestion.hey fuzz man,you ever use your stock pipe ,i bet you havent ,i noticed right off the bat the pipe your talkin bout is way way slower than the kit.its a joke im tellin you junk it.bout yor gearing,you say its a short straight so stick w a 4 tooth difference,an just run what u prefer for first.6 tooth difference to much for a small straight,itll never wind out,an if u try to make it engage quicker youll be hittin second on the infield.go with a 20-24,an a50-54.
10-13-2003, 07:47 PM
#5318
Originally posted by intimidator
hey fuzz man,you ever use your stock pipe ,i bet you havent ,i noticed right off the bat the pipe your talkin bout is way way slower than the kit.its a joke im tellin you junk it.bout yor gearing,you say its a short straight so stick w a 4 tooth difference,an just run what u prefer for first.6 tooth difference to much for a small straight,itll never wind out,an if u try to make it engage quicker youll be hittin second on the infield.go with a 20-24,an a50-54. [/B]
hey fuzz man,you ever use your stock pipe ,i bet you havent ,i noticed right off the bat the pipe your talkin bout is way way slower than the kit.its a joke im tellin you junk it.bout yor gearing,you say its a short straight so stick w a 4 tooth difference,an just run what u prefer for first.6 tooth difference to much for a small straight,itll never wind out,an if u try to make it engage quicker youll be hittin second on the infield.go with a 20-24,an a50-54. [/B]
10-13-2003, 08:58 PM
#5319
Originally posted by thefuzzclub
20/24 @ 50/54 was really my choice, i just thought that i will be left behind down on the straight, but again its not that long straight. thanks again.
20/24 @ 50/54 was really my choice, i just thought that i will be left behind down on the straight, but again its not that long straight. thanks again.
You should be comfortable with 20/24.I mentioned 20/26 because you mentioned earlier that you use 21/27 and that was why I thought you ran a long track.
10-13-2003, 09:01 PM
#5320
Originally posted by InitialD
50 m straights is very short ! You should be comfortable with 20/24.
I mentioned 20/26 because you mentioned earlier that you use 21/27 and that was why I thought you ran a long track.
50 m straights is very short !
You should be comfortable with 20/24.I mentioned 20/26 because you mentioned earlier that you use 21/27 and that was why I thought you ran a long track.
10-13-2003, 10:27 PM
#5321
Re: K Factory CENTAX GEARING
Originally posted by johnsoa
Has anyone experienced gear mesh problems when using the K Factory centax with the following gearing:
21/27 pinion with a 48/54 spur
The problem I've experienced is that the diameter of 21 tooth pinion for the K Factory centax is a little too large, causing the gear mesh on the 27 pinion 48 spur to be way too loose. Actually the teeth on the 27/48 barely come together.
Actually the gear mesh problem occurs when using the 21 tooth pinion with in any combination.
I wrote Trinity and anticipate a response soon, Joel is usually pretty good at responding, but just wanted to canvass you guys to see if anyone besides me has experienced this problem.
Has anyone experienced gear mesh problems when using the K Factory centax with the following gearing:
21/27 pinion with a 48/54 spur
The problem I've experienced is that the diameter of 21 tooth pinion for the K Factory centax is a little too large, causing the gear mesh on the 27 pinion 48 spur to be way too loose. Actually the teeth on the 27/48 barely come together.
Actually the gear mesh problem occurs when using the 21 tooth pinion with in any combination.
I wrote Trinity and anticipate a response soon, Joel is usually pretty good at responding, but just wanted to canvass you guys to see if anyone besides me has experienced this problem.
I'd say forget about the 6 tooth and stick to 4 tooth until K-Factory solves the problem. I'm currently using 23/27-50/54 with a RodyRoem X12 5 port and find the acceleration pretty decent provided the centax is shimmed and adjusted accordingly. Thread lock the retaining nut once you find the sweet spot coz the nut has a tendency of tightening itself after a couple of tanks causing slippage and over revving....
10-14-2003, 04:14 PM
#5322
Originally posted by intimidator
hey fuzz,that pipe u got is your whole problem,i got one too.its garbage,throw your stock pipe on it ,an cut bout three eights in off the header
hey fuzz,that pipe u got is your whole problem,i got one too.its garbage,throw your stock pipe on it ,an cut bout three eights in off the header
10-14-2003, 04:38 PM
#5323
too bad he doesnt have the rd pipe oldskool,he only mentioned considering it.he said hes got that dynamite pipe that lets you use a regular tuned pipe.
10-14-2003, 04:45 PM
#5324
heres what i believe hes got.
10-14-2003, 05:22 PM
#5325
Originally posted by intimidator
heres what i believe hes got.
heres what i believe hes got.