Losi 8ight building and setup
10-18-2008, 02:07 PM
#7951
Yo Integra, THANKS a lot man!
10-18-2008, 09:51 PM
#7953
When i FIRST got the adjustable's I KNEW something was up when i matched it to the stock plates with the Toe/Anti setting's they had originally printed.....and supposedly these measurements were done by a Machinist...so we can be assured those are the 100% real #'s.
10-19-2008, 11:03 AM
#7954
hi any info on the front braces would be good what dose kick up do?
10-19-2008, 03:42 PM
#7955
Tech Initiate
Stripped Cooling head hex screw!
Hello. I was putting my cooling head back on the motor today after putting some after run oil in the cylinder I accidently stripped the head of one of the hex screws. Luckily it stripped when it was tightened down but now, the next time I have to take off the head I'm gonna be in a jam. The motor is the Mach 27 that came with my 8ight. Any ideas on how to get this thing out now? I have a set of bits and reverse screw heads for things like this but none are small enough to fit down the cooling head hole. It looks like there may be room to cut the screw off between the bottom of the cooling head and the top of the engine block, maybe with a flat copping saw blade. Anyone ever have this happen and if so, what did you do to get the screw out, short of buying a new engine?
10-19-2008, 03:53 PM
#7956
Hello. I was putting my cooling head back on the motor today after putting some after run oil in the cylinder I accidently stripped the head of one of the hex screws. Luckily it stripped when it was tightened down but now, the next time I have to take off the head I'm gonna be in a jam. The motor is the Mach 27 that came with my 8ight. Any ideas on how to get this thing out now? I have a set of bits and reverse screw heads for things like this but none are small enough to fit down the cooling head hole. It looks like there may be room to cut the screw off between the bottom of the cooling head and the top of the engine block, maybe with a flat copping saw blade. Anyone ever have this happen and if so, what did you do to get the screw out, short of buying a new engine?
10-19-2008, 04:32 PM
#7957
Tech Master
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Join Date: May 2005
Location: Having fun racing toy cars in beautiful AZ
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Baja my bad on the inserts for got to add 1's up in the front to get 3 antisquat.
More kick up will go thru the bumps better. It should act a little stiffer and support the front more. This will also change the effective caster. More caster should make the steering imput slightly less aggressive.
If you can't get to the screw head you could always dremel the cooling head off and replace it with another one.
More kick up will go thru the bumps better. It should act a little stiffer and support the front more. This will also change the effective caster. More caster should make the steering imput slightly less aggressive.
Hello. I was putting my cooling head back on the motor today after putting some after run oil in the cylinder I accidently stripped the head of one of the hex screws. Luckily it stripped when it was tightened down but now, the next time I have to take off the head I'm gonna be in a jam. The motor is the Mach 27 that came with my 8ight. Any ideas on how to get this thing out now? I have a set of bits and reverse screw heads for things like this but none are small enough to fit down the cooling head hole. It looks like there may be room to cut the screw off between the bottom of the cooling head and the top of the engine block, maybe with a flat copping saw blade. Anyone ever have this happen and if so, what did you do to get the screw out, short of buying a new engine?
10-19-2008, 10:54 PM
#7958
Tech Adept
The time has come for me to service the diffs in my 8ight. Removing the middle and rear are pretty straight forwards but what is the deal with removing the front diff? I read somewhere that you have to remove that spacer and it makes it easier?
If someone would be so kind as to post the steps for removing the front diff in the most efficient way that would be a great help.
Much thanks.
If someone would be so kind as to post the steps for removing the front diff in the most efficient way that would be a great help.
Much thanks.
10-19-2008, 11:02 PM
#7959
The time has come for me to service the diffs in my 8ight. Removing the middle and rear are pretty straight forwards but what is the deal with removing the front diff? I read somewhere that you have to remove that spacer and it makes it easier?
If someone would be so kind as to post the steps for removing the front diff in the most efficient way that would be a great help.
Much thanks.
If someone would be so kind as to post the steps for removing the front diff in the most efficient way that would be a great help.
Much thanks.
10-19-2008, 11:09 PM
#7960
The front is almost the same as the rear.
Take your front end off, 6 screws on the bottom of the chassis and 1 on the top of the chassis brace.
Then you will need to take the sway bar off like the rear.
After that you'll see there is 6 screws holding the front of the gearbox on.
Also look in your manual for the exploded parts view & instructions on how to assemble the front end.
Take your front end off, 6 screws on the bottom of the chassis and 1 on the top of the chassis brace.
Then you will need to take the sway bar off like the rear.
After that you'll see there is 6 screws holding the front of the gearbox on.
Also look in your manual for the exploded parts view & instructions on how to assemble the front end.
10-20-2008, 05:51 AM
#7962
Tech Master
iTrader: (11)
The time has come for me to service the diffs in my 8ight. Removing the middle and rear are pretty straight forwards but what is the deal with removing the front diff? I read somewhere that you have to remove that spacer and it makes it easier?
If someone would be so kind as to post the steps for removing the front diff in the most efficient way that would be a great help.
Much thanks.
If someone would be so kind as to post the steps for removing the front diff in the most efficient way that would be a great help.
Much thanks.
10-20-2008, 04:49 PM
#7964
Tech Master
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Having fun racing toy cars in beautiful AZ
Posts: 1,716
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
The gearbox will swing out of the way with the swaybar still mounted. I don't like to mess with those tiny screws
Lazyness I guess.
I too like to remove the whole front clip. That way you can inspect everything a little closer (like cornerspeed mentioned).
Lazyness I guess.I too like to remove the whole front clip. That way you can inspect everything a little closer (like cornerspeed mentioned).
10-29-2008, 02:01 PM
#7965
hey guys, anyone having problems with the fuel tank on the 8ight-t? I know they have the spring and lid on ebay for replacement, but is it a problem point?
Mine won't go to WOT. Gets to a bit less than half RPM and dies. Tried everything, then swapped in a different tank off my ofna, and it revved full throttle fine without issues
Fuel filter is good - used pipe tape, no leaks. Tested tank underwater, I may not be blowing hard enough but it was ok. I used a pressure vacuum thing (mity-vac) and got some bubbles at the lid, but that may have been too much pressure.
So far things point to tank (tubing is new..). Anyone else have issues with it? Just replace cap and spring and good to go? Opinions?
Thanks!
Mine won't go to WOT. Gets to a bit less than half RPM and dies. Tried everything, then swapped in a different tank off my ofna, and it revved full throttle fine without issues
Fuel filter is good - used pipe tape, no leaks. Tested tank underwater, I may not be blowing hard enough but it was ok. I used a pressure vacuum thing (mity-vac) and got some bubbles at the lid, but that may have been too much pressure.
So far things point to tank (tubing is new..). Anyone else have issues with it? Just replace cap and spring and good to go? Opinions?
Thanks!