minnesh

gentlemen
advise needed on the fastest or best roll out on foam tyres 64mm on a johnstone 540 motor please
thanks

razzor

Minnesh roll out is relative to the type of track you run on.
For touring we have used from 40mm - 45mm on tight to med tracks and i have seen guys run as high as 47/48mm on fast flowing tracks where you carry a lot of speed but motors running these roll outs over heat fast.
The sweet spot seems to be around 43 - 45mm.
Hope this helps.

joe of loath

iTrader: (1)

i guess its bending the rules a little bit too much!

i have a johnson 540 out of an old drill, and after 6 years of use it runs about 25% faster anticlockwise. i ran it in for 5 mins in water (hard brushes) to make better contact, and it seems to be quite a fast motor. i've seen faster. although i dont have a motor tester OR a car to try it out in...

mep

iTrader: (40)

I run an outlaw mini series locally, & it amazes me what some cheaters try to do. The main reason I started the outlaw class was to utilize all of the aftermarket(non-Tamiya) hop-up parts & tires available, but I want to keep it "mini" in essence, so I limit motors to black-cans. Some guys do still use Johnson & Mabuchi silver cans, which I think is cool... but some of the local cheaters have tried to use closed-endbell airplane motors in the Mini class & one fool even tried to sneak a closed-end 12-turn Traxxas Titan past me, like I would not be able to distinquish the endbell from a Mabuchi! I just dont understand the urgent need to cheat, especially in a mini class. A cheater who feels like he proved something by cheating to win, is seriously only trying to overcompensate for other short-comings in life & is proving absolutely nothing. It's pitiful really. I now have to tech my freekin mini class after a heat or main, if someone is drastically fast down the back straight. This kind of stuff kills the fun of racing Minis

Just wanted to vent some frustration I suppose. I'm sure that most of you guys who race with closed motors understand the frustration.

....

For you guys who are simply trying out hot motors just to play around with, please dont take offense, because I have tried just about everything out there in my Minis just for fun! I've even put in a 10-turn Reedy mod for a bash session... which did nothing but spin the wheels horribly BTW! Awesome for jumping vast distances though

Granpa

I couldn't agree with you more. What makes mini racing so much fun is the cars are for the most part evenly matched. Going fast should be with good driving and a good set up. I don't mind being beaten by better driving etc., but it sure pisses me off when someone someone blows by me on the straight when I know i've got a really strong silvercan in the car.

racenut123

iTrader: (32)

This is unfortunately why I think I will not participate in the Mini class this year for TCS.Or I should say any Closed endbell motor class.Too much crap going on and honestly at a National level,to show up thinking you can outdrive people when your NOt cheating and more then likely a good amount of the competition is,SUCKS B@LL$.I am over it.

ChuckWick357

I was just saying to a friend of mine that racing the mini is like going back to racing RS4s in a parking lot 8 – 9 years ago. More about having fun then being serious. Miss those days.
I haven’t raced in a wile, last Wednesday I was turning 17.3-4 on average. I dipped down to 16.7 a couple times. I figure I can clean up my driving and make it to mid 16s but I need a motor to help me past that. My electric motor knowledge is way limited to I am looking for some help to find a good LEGAL motor

Hawk6

iTrader: (52)

David Weir and Scotty Ernst solved this problem for their "Mini Mayhem" race at Trackside in October by having "grab bag" motors.

David bought a bunch of silver can motors, gave them all identical basic break in (2 minute water dip or something), tested them and didn't use the extremely good or extremely bad ones. I think he said all the motors we ended up using tested with 6% of each other on RPM. Every round, each driver grabbed a different motor. At the end of the race event, we each kept the last motor we used.

We are talking about doing this at our local club for mini races.

Another idea is to do what they do at local dirt tracks where there is a rule that any driver can basically accuse someone of cheating by buying that person's engine for $200 or $500. You could do the same with silver cans at the weekly club races -- At the end of any qualifier or race, any driver can exchange motors with anyone else for $15. That would encourage EVERYONE not to put hours and hours and hours into tweaking or tuning one motor.

racenut123

iTrader: (32)

Club racing is one thing,but big dollar{cost to compete}races like TCS at the national level is another.I sincerely hope they can clamp down on the cheating,and define what is cheating clearly.Unfortunately we can't leave it to the racers to do the right thing because it's that small percentage of guys who will do anything to win.I have seen it all too.Running Traxxas motors,Zap advance timing,physical advance timing,cranking the com,Using extra/small rare earth magnets to advance or retard timing.You name it,it's been done and until it is clear what can and can't be done it will continue.Thats why these types of motors that can't be easily teched,suck IMO.Dave has a good idea,but will Tamiya do this?Probably not.And I can't blame them.Too much whining from the racers is what will result.

minnesh

thanks going to try 45 rollout
need to find a decent fan to cool it enough
thanks again

Hawk6

iTrader: (52)

There wasn't any whining at the Mini Mayhem race about the motor grab bag idea.

And guess what? The fact guys were still fast, and me and the rest of the slow guys were still slow. What that taught me was to quit mumbling under my breath "ya they're fast, but they're probably cheating to do it" and just work on my driving.

If someone somehow fixes the motor issue, then all of us will say "sure, they're using the same motor as me, but they must be doing something illegal to their _______ (batteries, tires, ESCs, bearings, gears,....).

My opinion.

A-Ko

iTrader: (2)

I think at regional levels cheating runs rampant, especially the tracks that don't initiate a strong "tech" program. At the Nats I did feel the playingfield and "tech" was somewhat leveled. Other than can crimping, there is not much you can do to a black can motors. If you try twisting, you break the ceramic that connects the stack to the com. Magnet zapping advance well you could try that, with the weak magnetic material I don't really see that making a difference. I also did not see any zappers Nats.

The key has been optimizing your setup, breaking in your motor and use correct gearing. After that, it comes down to details or "secrets" that may or may not work. If I could race the Nats again tomorrow, I think I will be faster than I was in Aug and hopefully finish with 4 wheels. I will apply the new things I learned and hopefully step-it-up a little more like the winner did.

It is sad being a hobby people still justify cheating. If I really wanted to I could buy an aftermarket mini gearset, to make my mini faster, knowing that the track will not check or breakdown my car. If you crank the com or crimp the can, that is easy to check. Many tracks don't seem to check.

I have never cheated or justified the need to. I have wanted to learn what the cheaters do so I know what to check for and also to see how much of a difference their cheat might make. There were people at the nats messing with their batteries and even removing the weight that they added for tech. Fortunately the ones that I know of that did this, did not win.

My conscience is clear I bet theirs is not.

A-Ko

iTrader: (2)

I don't think perfect classes will ever be equal. If we switched to BL and Lipo, I am sure there will be a new way to do something to those systems to give an advantage. Seems the way it goes...

JamesArluck

iTrader: (52)

SAY DAT!!!

Hawk6

iTrader: (52)

So, do a motor grab bag or a "I think you're cheating so I get to give you my motor and take your motor for $15" rule.

One of those rules would end the motor cheating discussion.