STOCK motor forum
#2251
Tech Lord
iTrader: (38)
Originally Posted by BSchorr
Hey, how hot do you want a monster/epic pro in stock sedan? when im done, i can hold my hand on it forever, is it ok to run i hotter, lets say 3-5 holding you hand on your motor? Because i think im running alittle slower then the top driver at our club i run a monster, 767's, Red Green, Shimmed pretty acturatly, and a 8.82 on my Yokomo SD Black Special..
WHat will a Red + and a Red - do to my motor then?
WHat will a Red + and a Red - do to my motor then?
#2252
Tech Fanatic
springs really don't have a lot to do with the temp,that's mostly gearing,but if you really want to get technical,don't go by the color of the springs either get a fiddle stick or even better an integy digital spring checker, with some practice you'll get good with the fiddle stick it's what I use to use,this way you can rate your own springs and tweak them also.it's actually kinda fun to sit down and play with your motors and keep track of things like spring tension, brush type,comm size and other stuff that you can keep a little notebook on.Also, keep track of motor temp after each run and when you get a really good run in make sure you write down what gear you were running and the temp of the motor after you pull it off the track,measure the arm temp, not the can temp.the majority if the custom tuned monsters I've bought come with a red, green combo.
#2253
Originally Posted by xxxkat
Running red red will give you more torque and less RPM's,On a small carpet track it will give you a lot more punch out of the corners.From what i have seen the best brushes to use on a monster are the stock 4499 E brush and the 769's(Reedy)all the 769's are is a 767 with a hole.For Temp my motors are in the 150deg range.
#2257
Tech Lord
iTrader: (38)
Originally Posted by Hyper1
springs really don't have a lot to do with the temp,that's mostly gearing,but if you really want to get technical,don't go by the color of the springs either get a fiddle stick or even better an integy digital spring checker, with some practice you'll get good with the fiddle stick it's what I use to use,this way you can rate your own springs and tweak them also.it's actually kinda fun to sit down and play with your motors and keep track of things like spring tension, brush type,comm size and other stuff that you can keep a little notebook on.Also, keep track of motor temp after each run and when you get a really good run in make sure you write down what gear you were running and the temp of the motor after you pull it off the track,measure the arm temp, not the can temp.the majority if the custom tuned monsters I've bought come with a red, green combo.
#2258
Tech Fanatic
I agree about most of the large custom build tuners out there,trinity fantom ETC ETC but I generally stick with the smaller builders when I'm buying custom builds.RC4LESS has generic motors for a lot less than a custom build but I haven't tried that route yet,I mostly look for someone that has a balancer and balances their arms,there are very few tuners that do this,and it is a very important step imop.
#2259
Tech Lord
iTrader: (38)
Originally Posted by Hyper1
I agree about most of the large custom build tuners out there,trinity fantom ETC ETC but I generally stick with the smaller builders when I'm buying custom builds.RC4LESS has generic motors for a lot less than a custom build but I haven't tried that route yet,I mostly look for someone that has a balancer and balances their arms,there are very few tuners that do this,and it is a very important step imop.
#2260
Tech Fanatic
EA,Putnam and Brood are the main ones I buy from,Brood has had the best stockers I've ever bought as far as track performance.And as far as rebuilding, the Broods seem to come right back to great performance after a rebuild,not sure what the difference is.
#2261
Tech Lord
iTrader: (38)
Originally Posted by Hyper1
EA,Putnam and Brood are the main ones I buy from,Brood has had the best stockers I've ever bought as far as track performance.And as far as rebuilding, the Broods seem to come right back to great performance after a rebuild,not sure what the difference is.
#2262
Tech Elite
iTrader: (74)
monster
Has anyone used the Trinity XXX brush yet ..I have a Fantom dyno and ben building my motors for years now useing Putnam,767 etc and wow the XXX seems to be KIller say taking a max power motor from a 59 to a high 61.8 I well see what it does on the track...Motor temp 150 to 190 too hot
I found 130 to 142 143 range is best I ran motors at 150 to 190 and the lap times didn't get any better but the other way gearing wise they got way better..
I found 130 to 142 143 range is best I ran motors at 150 to 190 and the lap times didn't get any better but the other way gearing wise they got way better..
#2263
Hi GUys.... many of you mentioned taking a temp reading of the motor after a run, has anyone of you got an idea what type of temperature i should be looking at for a 19t with upright brush hoods at 24 deg ...... thanks
#2264
Tech Lord
iTrader: (38)
I have never used temp as a guide line in 19T,The reason for this is the gearing that i have to run to be competitive at the local tracks.Reedy 19 quad final ratio is 5.7 to 5.9..motor is smoken hot..but fast.They dont last long at the temps we run them at.. For a C2 the final is 6.1 to 6.4.This is with 130 ft. straights,flowing infields.
#2265
Regardless of what you have been told...
A stifffer spring increases RPM, not torque.....a lighter spring will increase torque....
I know it sounds backwards, but thats the way it is....
Later EddieO
A stifffer spring increases RPM, not torque.....a lighter spring will increase torque....
I know it sounds backwards, but thats the way it is....
Later EddieO