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Old 11-23-2005, 11:37 AM   #2251
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Originally Posted by BSchorr
Hey, how hot do you want a monster/epic pro in stock sedan? when im done, i can hold my hand on it forever, is it ok to run i hotter, lets say 3-5 holding you hand on your motor? Because i think im running alittle slower then the top driver at our club i run a monster, 767's, Red Green, Shimmed pretty acturatly, and a 8.82 on my Yokomo SD Black Special..

WHat will a Red + and a Red - do to my motor then?
Running red red will give you more torque and less RPM's,On a small carpet track it will give you a lot more punch out of the corners.From what i have seen the best brushes to use on a monster are the stock 4499 E brush and the 769's(Reedy)all the 769's are is a 767 with a hole.For Temp my motors are in the 150deg range.
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Old 11-23-2005, 11:52 AM   #2252
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springs really don't have a lot to do with the temp,that's mostly gearing,but if you really want to get technical,don't go by the color of the springs either get a fiddle stick or even better an integy digital spring checker, with some practice you'll get good with the fiddle stick it's what I use to use,this way you can rate your own springs and tweak them also.it's actually kinda fun to sit down and play with your motors and keep track of things like spring tension, brush type,comm size and other stuff that you can keep a little notebook on.Also, keep track of motor temp after each run and when you get a really good run in make sure you write down what gear you were running and the temp of the motor after you pull it off the track,measure the arm temp, not the can temp.the majority if the custom tuned monsters I've bought come with a red, green combo.
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Old 11-23-2005, 12:07 PM   #2253
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xxxkat
Running red red will give you more torque and less RPM's,On a small carpet track it will give you a lot more punch out of the corners.From what i have seen the best brushes to use on a monster are the stock 4499 E brush and the 769's(Reedy)all the 769's are is a 767 with a hole.For Temp my motors are in the 150deg range.
769's with *new* Purple(+) and Red(-) springs works very well on monsters. Gear it up until its temp reaches between 150F and 190F, depending on the track layout, after a 5 minute run. Worn out springs won't have enough tension.
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Old 11-23-2005, 12:17 PM   #2254
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I went to the LHS and bought a spring set purple and red, ok, so, i get home, going to install the dam springs, and here is is red + and purple -, wat the heck is with this $hit lol
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Old 11-23-2005, 02:38 PM   #2255
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who's the local fast guy?
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Old 11-23-2005, 02:45 PM   #2256
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BSchorr
I went to the LHS and bought a spring set purple and red, ok, so, i get home, going to install the dam springs, and here is is red + and purple -, wat the heck is with this $hit lol

DOH! Eh we have all had Brain Farts
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Old 11-23-2005, 03:01 PM   #2257
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hyper1
springs really don't have a lot to do with the temp,that's mostly gearing,but if you really want to get technical,don't go by the color of the springs either get a fiddle stick or even better an integy digital spring checker, with some practice you'll get good with the fiddle stick it's what I use to use,this way you can rate your own springs and tweak them also.it's actually kinda fun to sit down and play with your motors and keep track of things like spring tension, brush type,comm size and other stuff that you can keep a little notebook on.Also, keep track of motor temp after each run and when you get a really good run in make sure you write down what gear you were running and the temp of the motor after you pull it off the track,measure the arm temp, not the can temp.the majority if the custom tuned monsters I've bought come with a red, green combo.
Going to a stiffer spring can increase motor temp by a few degrees,But I do agree that motor temp has everything to do with gearing.Out of all the custom tuned Monster Stocks out their right now their might be 3 or 4 that are actually custom tuned.For the most part they skim the com,dyno it it and call it good.The green/red combo is an all around set up.The fiddle stick is the way to go on spring tension but not everyone has one or really knows how to use one.Heavy springs are the way to go on a monster stock..this is for touring cars.
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Old 11-23-2005, 03:23 PM   #2258
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I agree about most of the large custom build tuners out there,trinity fantom ETC ETC but I generally stick with the smaller builders when I'm buying custom builds.RC4LESS has generic motors for a lot less than a custom build but I haven't tried that route yet,I mostly look for someone that has a balancer and balances their arms,there are very few tuners that do this,and it is a very important step imop.
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Old 11-23-2005, 03:36 PM   #2259
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hyper1
I agree about most of the large custom build tuners out there,trinity fantom ETC ETC but I generally stick with the smaller builders when I'm buying custom builds.RC4LESS has generic motors for a lot less than a custom build but I haven't tried that route yet,I mostly look for someone that has a balancer and balances their arms,there are very few tuners that do this,and it is a very important step imop.
I have had good luck with Fantom Motors as far as a good starting point goes.But it's all in the details with stock,batteries,gearing.The motors from Putnam,EA Motorsports have also been very fast with little or no work needed..
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Old 11-23-2005, 03:54 PM   #2260
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EA,Putnam and Brood are the main ones I buy from,Brood has had the best stockers I've ever bought as far as track performance.And as far as rebuilding, the Broods seem to come right back to great performance after a rebuild,not sure what the difference is.
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Old 11-23-2005, 06:46 PM   #2261
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hyper1
EA,Putnam and Brood are the main ones I buy from,Brood has had the best stockers I've ever bought as far as track performance.And as far as rebuilding, the Broods seem to come right back to great performance after a rebuild,not sure what the difference is.
I have never tried one..in fact in the area where i live i have never seen one for sale..I guess I should try and get them in my shop..
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Old 11-24-2005, 10:48 AM   #2262
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Has anyone used the Trinity XXX brush yet ..I have a Fantom dyno and ben building my motors for years now useing Putnam,767 etc and wow the XXX seems to be KIller say taking a max power motor from a 59 to a high 61.8 I well see what it does on the track...Motor temp 150 to 190 too hot
I found 130 to 142 143 range is best I ran motors at 150 to 190 and the lap times didn't get any better but the other way gearing wise they got way better..
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Old 11-24-2005, 12:31 PM   #2263
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Hi GUys.... many of you mentioned taking a temp reading of the motor after a run, has anyone of you got an idea what type of temperature i should be looking at for a 19t with upright brush hoods at 24 deg ...... thanks
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Old 11-24-2005, 06:46 PM   #2264
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I have never used temp as a guide line in 19T,The reason for this is the gearing that i have to run to be competitive at the local tracks.Reedy 19 quad final ratio is 5.7 to 5.9..motor is smoken hot..but fast.They dont last long at the temps we run them at.. For a C2 the final is 6.1 to 6.4.This is with 130 ft. straights,flowing infields.
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Old 11-24-2005, 08:53 PM   #2265
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Regardless of what you have been told...

A stifffer spring increases RPM, not torque.....a lighter spring will increase torque....

I know it sounds backwards, but thats the way it is....

Later EddieO
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