rmdhawaii

iTrader: (4)

Cool! Let us know how that chassis works out.

Artificial-I

iTrader: (17)

Welp just let my trigger finger get the best of me. Just spend $240 on upgrades and updates to the chassis. Oh well guess its safe to say when the prospec comes out I wont be jealous.

Got the rest of the needed mugen parts as well as quite a few hop-ups. So pretty much all my above questions are moot at this point.

Heres what I got:
MTX-4 Front Universals
MTX-4 4mm rear shock tower
MTX-4 Rear Upright
MTX-4 A & B TI screw kit
3racing 4mm Chassis
3racing ti turnbuckle set
3racing Aluminum one piece engine mount
3racing alloy brake disk
3racing cf upper bumper plate
Kfactory alum front body posts
Kfactory hard aluminum threaded flanged ball
Sato LW aluminum front shaft

Pretty hard to believe that small list = 240...oh well. Gotta love RC.

--

The only question I have now from you guys is what is the best way to get a spool in front?

Thanks.

jaykay

Itīs funny to read these list of not really needend hopup parts.

My 2007 car get only titanium screws (lost weight), yellow clutch shoe (better clutch performance) and front cvd (true running).

Its more important that everything runs free and smooth, good engine performance and last but least, improve your driving

rcfoolz

iTrader: (22)

Yes, I can agree with that. I have 1 Kawahara hopup on the car (rear front hinge pin holder) besides the carbon fiber I cut myself. I will use 1 other for the winternats and that is only because of endurance, not performance. When I took all the others off, it seemed to me that I got faster.

rmdhawaii

iTrader: (4)

Kawahara has a one-way/spool combo. You can switch between the two by inserting and removing pins. I haven't tried it, but it's a Kawahara.

http://www.kawahara-racing.co.jp/ZAC...artslist..html

Use this to translate: http://babelfish.altavista.com/

Canuck

iTrader: (25)

No problem, as soon as the friggin snow melts here and spring arrives I will let everyone know more about the BTECH-RC chassis.

I've been getting good feedback from Europe on these products.

For now I an looking for dealers in the USA because we are the North American distributor for BTECH-RC.

itchy b

iTrader: (2)

Welcome to Mugenville Artificial I
Great to see that you got hold of an Mtx4 sooner than expected
I'll have to back up Rainer on the Kawahara front oneway,spool,locker combo is the best out there
Also something to consider would be the Kawahara rear blade swaybar for easier setup changes

Canuck

iTrader: (25)

The ajustable rear blade sway bar si sweet ! A must ...

itchy b

iTrader: (2)

I almost forgot to mention the Kawahara make a new type of side belt tentioner that is mmounted the other way so that it is out of the way when you are changing engines in and out

jaykay

thats right, i just have it in my new mugen mtx4 kit

Seisick

no need for that, just reverse the actual, dremel just a little bit the radio tray and use button head screws instead of the flat head on that part.

arificial
the key to not strip gears is the alignment of the pinions, should be perfect that's it, and the space between the 2 speed shoes should be the maximun possible without touching the 2 speed hub.

I could say my track is mugen land and from the several mtx4 owners, no one strips gears, mine are several gallons used and I used 58 52 and I have tried even 60 52, with 17 23- 18 24-17 24,18 23 up to 8 teeth split, no strip gears!

Artificial-I

iTrader: (17)

The parts I got are parts that help improve the weight or unsprung weight of the cars suspension and transmission.

Also yes if you read I noted needed and then hop-up parts. Im just shooting for a lightweight car or helping tweak a few things. This helps in more ways than one , if you want a list of benefits , look into lowering the weight in a race car.

Also your order of things to me is a bit skewed, but thats just IMO. I would place driver first , runs free and smooth isnt that big of a deal except for acceleration and gas mileage as well motor is something thats only needed on larger tracks and if the driver is strong enough to handle the power of the motor.

But thanks for trying to give me some tips. Some stay stock , some dont. I think a lot of it has to do with prefrence , the mind telling you its faster and the other is some win pretty much no matter what , at that point they really only modify whats needed.

Artificial-I

iTrader: (17)

Cool I didnt know if they did. Still tackling all the mtx-4 parts sites. Havent really come across the kawahara stuff yet. Ive seen an atomic front diff that was one-way/spool in one. Didnt really know bout their quality , but kawahara is the tops on the stuff ive come across.

Thanks again.

Artificial-I

iTrader: (17)

Also another thing is the battery. Now I might be wrong as im new and coming across as much information as I can. But it seems from nitrokb and such that the larger 2/3A flat battery pack is favored over the AAA hump pack (would be cool to have AAA flat pack).

Anyhow, Im wondering who is running the AAA packs? Better yet , do they even fit? What did you think? I know with my older kit swapping out the 2/3A flat pack to a AAA pack made quite a improvement in handling and weight loss overall for the chassis.

madbeats

Artificial-I check my car its a Kawahara MTX4

http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...hmentid=194210
http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...hmentid=194211