Xray NT1
#1501
Tech Rookie
Question. Are most of you fellas satisfied with the tension your getting with the middle belt? just curious since I'm still building mine & I tested the adjustment on the belt tension and the tightest position is not sufficient enough or am I wrong?
#1502
I'm satisfied ... my tensioning arm is set at around the mid-point. If I move it to the very back, the belt gets too taut and really tight.
#1503
Tech Rookie
Thanks! I'll go by your word then since it was you who gave me alot of good tips and tricks on your review on the nt1 on your site hehe
#1504
But too loose belt tension cause on-power understeering in corner-exit.
proper tension is good!!
#1505
Tech Rookie
thanks for explaining both sides!
#1506
I set all the belts quite tight. Responsive
You can relax the middle belt ---> more turning power on full throttle.
You can relax the middle belt ---> more turning power on full throttle.
Last edited by asw7576; 07-04-2007 at 02:57 AM.
#1507
#1509
clutch
I'm trying to setup the xray clutch and ran into small problem on the novarossi 353, are you doing any special tricks to get it to fit because it seems like the crank is too short (29.51mm) if you use the nova supplied 7mm collet, and even after filing it down to 5mm I end up with too many shims on the clutch gap to even space the bell off the shoe and then the endplay is non existent with the xray supplied end insert (6mm, vs kyosho's 7mm)
#1510
I'm trying to setup the xray clutch and ran into small problem on the novarossi 353, are you doing any special tricks to get it to fit because it seems like the crank is too short (29.51mm) if you use the nova supplied 7mm collet, and even after filing it down to 5mm I end up with too many shims on the clutch gap to even space the bell off the shoe and then the endplay is non existent with the xray supplied end insert (6mm, vs kyosho's 7mm)
Alternative #2: You can add 0.2mm shim before the collete you have in now. Team Magic has this crankshaft's outer bearing shim.
Alternative #3: If you insist to use 7mm original collete from Novarossi, You can buy Mugen Seiki H0756 ( the last part that hold the thrust bearing ). H0756 is longer than Xray.
BTW, check / read again the Xray manual about clutch gap vs end play before going to alternatives.
#1511
With the 25T side pulley I have been running my side belt at max tension which seems to be barely enough to keep it from skipping under braking.
Mark
Mark
#1512
Alternative #1: You can buy shorter collete from Mugen Seiki or G4S
Alternative #2: You can add 0.2mm shim before the collete you have in now. Team Magic has this crankshaft's outer bearing shim.
Alternative #3: If you insist to use 7mm original collete from Novarossi, You can buy Mugen Seiki H0756 ( the last part that hold the thrust bearing ). H0756 is longer than Xray.
BTW, check / read again the Xray manual about clutch gap vs end play before going to alternatives.
Alternative #2: You can add 0.2mm shim before the collete you have in now. Team Magic has this crankshaft's outer bearing shim.
Alternative #3: If you insist to use 7mm original collete from Novarossi, You can buy Mugen Seiki H0756 ( the last part that hold the thrust bearing ). H0756 is longer than Xray.
BTW, check / read again the Xray manual about clutch gap vs end play before going to alternatives.
#1513
Has anyone tried the new 4mm chassis yet? Especially on a high grip track. If so, how did it handle and did you have to make any changes to your setup?
Anyone tried the 4mm chassis, as well as the standard chassis with the Multi-flex engine mount? I'd be interested to know the differences between each type of *stiff* chassis setup as well.
Anyone tried the 4mm chassis, as well as the standard chassis with the Multi-flex engine mount? I'd be interested to know the differences between each type of *stiff* chassis setup as well.
#1514
Tech Adept
Has anyone tried the new 4mm chassis yet? Especially on a high grip track. If so, how did it handle and did you have to make any changes to your setup?
Anyone tried the 4mm chassis, as well as the standard chassis with the Multi-flex engine mount? I'd be interested to know the differences between each type of *stiff* chassis setup as well.
Anyone tried the 4mm chassis, as well as the standard chassis with the Multi-flex engine mount? I'd be interested to know the differences between each type of *stiff* chassis setup as well.
#1515
I finally got time to paint a new body for the NT1. I'm not a pro painter by any means, but I'm happy with it. I'm just learning to use liquid mask and an airbrush. At least I can get rid of the left overs from the previous car...Now I just need to trim the body posts, and true some tires for the weekend. I get to race Sat and Sun after almost a month off. I'm stoked for sure