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Old 11-03-2012, 04:40 AM
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Double post...

Last edited by TryHard; 11-03-2012 at 05:02 AM.
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Old 11-03-2012, 10:27 AM
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Originally Posted by TryHard
And for the last timed run, went to the BD7 style motor mount (V2 side mount, V1 centre, front screw only in bottom, and only front centre into top deck), with the front braced deck. Felt very similar to the above combo, but gained mid rotation in the slower corners, and interestingly didn't seem to suffer in the high speed... best run of the night at 35laps, with a 9.5 fastest lap.
Ed, I'm have a brain fart and cant figure out what the bold means, please explain.

Thanks
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Old 11-03-2012, 02:05 PM
  #4533  
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Originally Posted by Johnny Wishbone
Ed, I'm have a brain fart and cant figure out what the bold means, please explain.

Thanks
Hehe, it was late, and not well worded.

Basically, using the v2/v1 combo, i use five screws in the bottom plate (4 rear & 1 furthest forward), whilst in the top deck, its just mounted with the front screw in the v1 centre piece. I don't use the two at the back of the motor mount.

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Ed
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Old 11-03-2012, 08:07 PM
  #4534  
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Questions?? More Questions?????

Ok after vigorous reserching, I've found that the IDR is 2.0. Since I will be running 17.5 blinky, the FDR should be between 3.8-4.2.

In terms of running 17.5 blinky:

Which is better 48p or 64p?
Best starting FDR for sm-med indoor carpet track? (80x40)
What difference would be noticed between two different gear combo's that create the same FDR or Rollout?

The last time I ran onroad there were a few guys that would just flat out walk away from everyone else. Pretty much everyone was running tekins in blinky mode with either Ballistics or Trinity motors.

Thanks in advance
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Old 11-03-2012, 10:56 PM
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Originally Posted by BigRon
Ok after vigorous reserching, I've found that the IDR is 2.0. Since I will be running 17.5 blinky, the FDR should be between 3.8-4.2.

In terms of running 17.5 blinky:

Which is better 48p or 64p?
Best starting FDR for sm-med indoor carpet track? (80x40)
What difference would be noticed between two different gear combo's that create the same FDR or Rollout?

The last time I ran onroad there were a few guys that would just flat out walk away from everyone else. Pretty much everyone was running tekins in blinky mode with either Ballistics or Trinity motors.

Thanks in advance
64p is where you want to look for carpet. It is smoother and quieter. I'd start with around a 4.0 FDR and check temps, aiming for about 150-160*F. Bigger pinion more more temp, smaller for less temp. As far as differences on gear combos, if you're looking for a more direct feel, smaller pinion with bigger spur. If you're looking to make it more smooth, bigger pinion with a smaller spur.
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Old 11-04-2012, 11:30 PM
  #4536  
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Originally Posted by TryHard
Much lighter than serpent one (in the region of 10g less than a 2gear), which is not just mass, but rotating mass too. Also, feels smoother, none of the notchy ness. By all accounts, should gain rear traction.
I know you can use the Xceed 733lightweight gear diff parts to achieve a similar thing, but they are impossible to get hold of anymore, so this is a good option, IMO.

Recap- VBC Diff, Dogbones and blades, Xray cross joint, Serpent Axles.

HiH
Ed
Sorry for the stupid questions ... but what is the X-Ray cross joint?
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Old 11-04-2012, 11:39 PM
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Originally Posted by FaanP
Sorry for the stupid questions ... but what is the X-Ray cross joint?
Google is my friend Found it !!
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Old 11-05-2012, 01:07 AM
  #4538  
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I tested 4-hole pistons yesterday together with little harder springs and oil. It felt good but the lap times was the same as with 3-hole. Just a different feeling. On really high grip I think 4-hole could be better.

I think I will test another gear diff than Serpent. On track I get no difference between thick or thin oil...
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Old 11-05-2012, 02:33 AM
  #4539  
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Last weekend I was testing some diff and shock settings on a mid to high grip carpet.

V2 Serpent diff with Xceed plastic 4 gears. Works really smooth. First with 1000 cst of throttle the rear was slightly washing out then changed to 2000 cst and the problem was gone now I could push the car.

Tried the RCM with one O-ring (Ehrbar mod) I couldn't get them to 0 rebound no matter what. The car was fast but a little unpredictable or inconsistent as you wish.

I have a set of TRFs and with these the car just felt right. Consistent and fast. Not so much on one lap but in the distance it was a real improvement!

Now i'm thinking to trie the T-shox from Myrberg. Has some one tried them yet?

Regards
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Old 11-05-2012, 04:02 AM
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where i can find xceed plastic gears?
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Old 11-05-2012, 04:25 AM
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Originally Posted by brunelli ale
where i can find xceed plastic gears?
http://www.rc-mushroom.com/product_i...ht-733-p-20492

http://rcmarket.com.hk/product_info....oducts_id=8763
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Old 11-05-2012, 05:10 AM
  #4542  
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ok but i can't use standard outdrives!
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Old 11-05-2012, 05:41 AM
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Originally Posted by brunelli ale
ok but i can't use standard outdrives!
I use the two original big gears and the four small Xceed ones! As it was mentioned a couple of times before by some other drivers.
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Old 11-05-2012, 05:42 AM
  #4544  
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Default s411 qtns

Hey ya’all I was wondering if s411 owners opinions on the Team Edition versus the original s411 I have?

Anyone using the Derlin driveshaft adapters for front spool, what is its purpose?

I have the “soft” rear A-arms, are most people upgrading them to “medium” or “hard” parts?

Thanks. ya'all. This car was the only one that made the a-main this weekend at my local carpet track the rest were T4 XRAYS
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Old 11-05-2012, 06:22 AM
  #4545  
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Originally Posted by locked
Cestaric, since the CRC site is not the easiest to navigate, here's a direct link to the Wildfire gear diff
http://www.teamcrc.com/crc/modules.p...prodID=7719299

I know a few guys that drive an S411. My friend uses an XRAY gear diff in his(I sold him an extra one that I had). They just need to be shimmed a little.
Thanks Lock,
this diff would be a direct change on my S411TE ?
Just take to Stock diff off and use this one from CRC ?

Cestaric
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