skengines

iTrader: (226)

Thanks!

Do you know if the 3racing spur gear uses 3mm balls? tq doesnt stock kawada.

Also what size spurs do most of you guys keep handy? Gonna place my order through tq tomorrow.

Vyger

iTrader: (2)

Thanks man...

Don't you know, words cut deeper than knives...

J-PaP

iTrader: (12)

Should be fine with 3mm having a look at the spurs. 3mm vs 1/8 is only 0.1mm difference.

Just use 93t normally but have 90t as well if i need to really drop the ratio down.

blade072

iTrader: (98)

i think i just realised i was using 2mm balls at the time when it melted......not 3mm..... just found some spares....no wonder it died

skengines

iTrader: (226)

Do you run at TQ?

As for pinions 30-35? Thanks for your help

J-PaP

iTrader: (12)

Yeah that would do it. At 2mm your diff balls wouldn't have actually been touching the diff plates.

Nah I'm not even in the US. If it is 21.5 blinky then 30-35 should be about right. If silver can then 25-30.

blade072

iTrader: (98)

am running 21.5 blinky and i have 72 spur 24 pinion (48p) which is a fdr or 3.0 and the thing flies.....
our track is quite big and flowing though as for diff balls.... also my diff seams to loosen itself after a slight accident.....will sand my diffs for the next meet....also might try 3mm balls

blade072

iTrader: (98)

correction i was using 3mm ceramic balls when it melted......just looked at my order history at the time it happened...i knew i wouldnt be that stupid

J-PaP

iTrader: (12)

The diff will slowly loosen itself over time. Think I need to re-adjust mine every 3-4 meets.

What motor and esc are you using? I'm down to a 2.4 ratio so far on my blinky car. I think I may push it further as it still spins the wheels quite easily.

blade072

iTrader: (98)

using a viper vtx-10 with a lrp x12 with max timing.......no wonder your getting wheel spin......its too low ever thought of going higher??...i dont have that issue....an using an f104X1 with ride supersofts all round

J-PaP

iTrader: (12)

Think you may have it the wrong way around. The lower the ratio the less likely you will spin the tyres.

blade072

iTrader: (98)

think you have.....if thats the case then a 13.5 motor would be slower than a 17.5 motor....

the bigger the spur/pinion the less rip you get out of the corners and would be easier to drive (smoother)....

thats why you are getting wheelspin because you have gone too low and out of curiosity how many years have you been racing and what classes???

in most cases with gear ratios and motor winds.....the lower the number the faster it is usually

J-PaP

iTrader: (12)

You are confusing yourself going into motor winds. That is different to gear ratios.

When keeping the motor and everything else identical, as you lower the gear ratio the car will have a higher top speed and lower acceleration. Lowering your gear ratio does not increase acceleration and top speed.

What does the number of years I have been racing have to do with anything?

blade072

iTrader: (98)

i am not confusing myself mate.....you will see that if you set your car to higher ratio number like 3.0 you will find you wont get as much wheelspin....the closer you go to 1:1 the faster acceleration you will have out of the corners.....

with extra speed comes extra acceleration.......
try it for yourself and see how it goes.....

as for years racing.....let me reword that, what other cars or classes have you run??

also what ratio are you thinking of running???

InspGadgt

A bad rear bearing or a left side hub set too tight against the bearing will also cause the car to pull to one side

3Racing spur gear uses 1/8th diff balls stock.

On the gear ratio Jpap is right...the higher the ratio is numerically the more wheel spin you will get. The closer to 1:1 you get the less wheel spin you get.

almost 20 years racing...over 10 years as a race director...3 years as a contributing author. Other classes (brushed): Stock 27t 1/10th pan car (road course), stock 27t 1/12th pan car, stock touring car, mod 1/10th pan car, mod touring car, Tamiya black can F1, 1/10th stock 2wdbuggy, 1/10th stock stadium truck, mod 1/10th monster truck, mod 1/10th 4wd buggy, oval mod 1/10th pan car. Other classes (nitro): 1/10th 2wd .15 nitro, 1/8th 4wd .21 nitro (on-road), 1/8th 4wd buggy .21 nitro. Other classes (brushless): 17.5 boost 1/12th scale, 13.5 boost 1/12th scale, 10.5 1/12th scale, 17.5 blinky 1/12th scale, 13.5 blinky 1/12th scale, 17.5 boost touring car, 21.5 blinky F1...I think that is it...I might be missing one or 2...it's been a long run and I don't remember them all

This is theoretically true to an extent but not in terms of gear ratio...if you use say a 100 spur and 50 pinion vs say a 50 spur and 25 pinion...the gear ratios themselves are the same but the 100/50 has more rotating mass than the 50/25 so you will lose some punch. However in practical terms the gear ratios being the same the difference in mass has such a small difference in acceleration that the average driver isn't going to be able to tell the difference. Now if you compare the 100/25 to say a 50/25...you now have a 4:1 gear ratio vs a 2:1 gear ratio. Even though the 100/25 are bigger gears they are going to have more acceleration and therefore more wheel spin than the 50/25.

This is true...however more top end does not mean more wheel spin...more acceleration = more wheel spin. Top speed and acceleration have an inverse relationship. Meaning the more top speed you have the less acceleration you will get...the more acceleration you have the less top speed you will have.