86LikesHpi Pro 4
03-15-2004, 10:03 PM
#2371
Originally posted by RandyB
hey steve do you have the tobee main shaft?? and how close does their anodize match the hpi purple??
hey steve do you have the tobee main shaft?? and how close does their anodize match the hpi purple??
They are coming in on our next shipment from Tobee Craft, so we'll have to wait and see
Steve Wang
03-15-2004, 10:10 PM
#2373
Hi Guys,
Our high speed Ceramic bearings set comes out to be $99.99, which is very close or cheaper than other companies ceramic bearings kits. As you all know, ceramic bearings drastically reduce friction and improves acceleration, top speed, and efficiency of the car, and also last a lot longer than standard grade bearigns. We decided to omit the steering and the bearing inside the ball differential as they do not have nothing or little to do with the freeness of the drivetrain, and thus also help reduce cost.
These bearing kits are avaialble right now, and here's a direct link to it
Thanks
Steve Wang
Our high speed Ceramic bearings set comes out to be $99.99, which is very close or cheaper than other companies ceramic bearings kits. As you all know, ceramic bearings drastically reduce friction and improves acceleration, top speed, and efficiency of the car, and also last a lot longer than standard grade bearigns. We decided to omit the steering and the bearing inside the ball differential as they do not have nothing or little to do with the freeness of the drivetrain, and thus also help reduce cost.
These bearing kits are avaialble right now, and here's a direct link to it
Thanks
Steve Wang
03-16-2004, 12:50 AM
#2374
Tech Initiate
Originally posted by RCBuddha
Try this dreambrother:
Loosen ALL the top deck screws, including the two in front of the shock towers. Put your racing batteries in, and secure down with the battery brace or tape. Then tighten...see if that makes a difference. I don't think it'll be ABSOLUTELY perfect, cause mine isn't.
Buddha
Try this dreambrother:
Loosen ALL the top deck screws, including the two in front of the shock towers. Put your racing batteries in, and secure down with the battery brace or tape. Then tighten...see if that makes a difference. I don't think it'll be ABSOLUTELY perfect, cause mine isn't.
Buddha
Well I took apart the car, and the chassis isn't warped
I just finished putting it back together, and I got the same problem again..ouch. So it must be the screws. Actually it's really not that bad, but I'll try that method. I'm getting to the point where I just want to see it run
03-16-2004, 12:51 AM
#2375
dreambrother - why did you take off the front bumper to read the ride height gauge? If you have a gauge like the new HPI aluminum one or the plastic one that comes with the kit, you read the numbers from the top. Put the car on a clean flat surface, push in the gauge gently until it touches the chassis and read the number. If you check the height between the bumper and the arm you can see the gauge from above.
03-16-2004, 12:58 AM
#2376
Originally posted by dreambrother
Well I took apart the car, and the chassis isn't warped I just finished putting it back together, and I got the same problem again..ouch. So it must be the screws. Actually it's really not that bad, but I'll try that method. I'm getting to the point where I just want to see it run
Well I took apart the car, and the chassis isn't warped
I just finished putting it back together, and I got the same problem again..ouch. So it must be the screws. Actually it's really not that bad, but I'll try that method. I'm getting to the point where I just want to see it run
I have a feeling you won't even notice a thing. It's probably not even tweaked.
03-16-2004, 06:32 AM
#2377
Remember to use the same
1 - 4
3 - 2
method on the screws on the bottom of the chassis on the bottom diff cases, ect.
1 - 4
3 - 2
method on the screws on the bottom of the chassis on the bottom diff cases, ect.
03-16-2004, 06:34 AM
#2378
Tech Adept
Just a comment on the chassis tweaking.
I have built two PRO 4 kits. Mine which was one of the first batch form the UK distributor Mirage, and my Nephews which he got form a racer at the local club a couple of weeks ago (Still sealled).
While building the second one I noticed how flat all the screws seemed on the bottom of the chassis. When compared to mine which were raced quite a bit. This always made my chassis lift up one corner when put on a level surface and know matter how I retightened the top deck it would never sit perfect. I have now countersunk all the holes slightly deeper and the chassis sits perfectly flat, in fact both of the cars have no tweak. (even after some heavy crashes.).
I have built two PRO 4 kits. Mine which was one of the first batch form the UK distributor Mirage, and my Nephews which he got form a racer at the local club a couple of weeks ago (Still sealled).
While building the second one I noticed how flat all the screws seemed on the bottom of the chassis. When compared to mine which were raced quite a bit. This always made my chassis lift up one corner when put on a level surface and know matter how I retightened the top deck it would never sit perfect. I have now countersunk all the holes slightly deeper and the chassis sits perfectly flat, in fact both of the cars have no tweak. (even after some heavy crashes.).
03-16-2004, 08:30 AM
#2379
Tech Initiate
Frank- I took off the bumbper becuase I thought the bottom plastic base where the bumper sits wasn't level with the chassis.. I thought it sat lower. Obviously it doesn't. I'm still learning
Beeb- I've been thinking that. I'm almost 100% sure I won't tell the difference. I'm also trying to decide what ESC to get. I have a IPC 7.1 on my old car, but I kind of want to keep it for that car. I may just go with another 7.1. My first one took a beating, and I've never had a problem with it. The size of it is the only downside.
Beeb- I've been thinking that. I'm almost 100% sure I won't tell the difference. I'm also trying to decide what ESC to get. I have a IPC 7.1 on my old car, but I kind of want to keep it for that car. I may just go with another 7.1. My first one took a beating, and I've never had a problem with it. The size of it is the only downside.
03-16-2004, 08:30 AM
#2380
Tech Initiate
sorry double post.
03-16-2004, 08:36 AM
#2381
Originally posted by dreambrother
Frank- I took off the bumbper becuase I thought the bottom plastic base where the bumper sits wasn't level with the chassis.. I thought it sat lower. Obviously it doesn't. I'm still learning
Beeb- I've been thinking that. I'm almost 100% sure I won't tell the difference. I'm also trying to decide what ESC to get. I have a IPC 7.1 on my old car, but I kind of want to keep it for that car. I may just go with another 7.1. My first one took a beating, and I've never had a problem with it. The size of it is the only downside.
Frank- I took off the bumbper becuase I thought the bottom plastic base where the bumper sits wasn't level with the chassis.. I thought it sat lower. Obviously it doesn't. I'm still learning
Beeb- I've been thinking that. I'm almost 100% sure I won't tell the difference. I'm also trying to decide what ESC to get. I have a IPC 7.1 on my old car, but I kind of want to keep it for that car. I may just go with another 7.1. My first one took a beating, and I've never had a problem with it. The size of it is the only downside.
Hope to see you at Sunday's RcCar race..
03-16-2004, 09:25 AM
#2382
Tech Initiate
Originally posted by rc-zombies
next esc... get the Hara Twister!
Hope to see you at Sunday's RcCar race..
next esc... get the Hara Twister!
Hope to see you at Sunday's RcCar race..
I probably would get the Twister, but I've only seen it at Horion Hobby and its out of stock. What race? I'm out of the loop.
03-16-2004, 09:38 AM
#2383
Originally posted by dreambrother
I probably would get the Twister, but I've only seen it at Horion Hobby and its out of stock. What race? I'm out of the loop.
I probably would get the Twister, but I've only seen it at Horion Hobby and its out of stock. What race? I'm out of the loop.
Electric racing is 3rd sunday of every month til oct/nov.
Theses are the classes we will run this year:
Electric:
Sportsman Stock
19 turn Sedan
Expert Stock
Expert Mod
F-201
12th scale
Mini
Nitro:
Novice
Sportsman
Expert
Superten
We will follow the ROAR rules for nitro: Turbo plugs will be allowed.
We will continue to run on the 1st and 3rd Sunday: March-October.
RC Unlimited…Camden and Union.
Feb: 22, A FUN-RUN non-points race. (all classes)
March: 7,21.
May: 2,16.
July, *11*, 18 (not on the 4th).
Sept: 5,19.
Any rain outs may be held on a 5th Sunday.
Speedring:
April: 4th & 18th
June: 6th & 20th
Aug: 1st & 15th
Oct: 3rd & 17th
03-16-2004, 10:10 AM
#2385
Re: HARA'S TOP DECK
Originally posted by rc-zombies
I noticed on Hara's car at the Thailand race that he's not using the countersink screws and turned his topdeck upside down and used countersink washers instead.... maybe he's experierencing some tweaking as well...?
I noticed on Hara's car at the Thailand race that he's not using the countersink screws and turned his topdeck upside down and used countersink washers instead.... maybe he's experierencing some tweaking as well...?