mazmo

iTrader: (4)

sorry. that is for 13.5 blinky (no timing).
for 17.5 would you run blinky or boosted?

svndayNZ

iTrader: (20)

Hi all, i'm busy building my first ever Serpent kit the S411 FF that I plan to run in 21 Blinky here in Sydney, so far i'm really impressed by the kit the build quality is impeccable (having owned Tamiyas my whole life i was still impressed). One thing I am finding on my turn buckles is the rod ends fit very snug onto the ball studs, so much so that i feels very binding in the rear a-arms. has anyone else experienced this and have they found any potential fixes for it?

dan_vector

iTrader: (27)

Hi. Yes they are quite snug. A simple fix is to squeeze the sides of the track rod end while installed on the ball with soft face pliers. That'll free it up somewhat. Or you could just run the car and after a couple runs it'll free itself up anyway.

The is a 411 FF specific thread as well if you'd like to check it out for any other build tips etc specific to the FF. You can find it here http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...-s411-fwd.html

svndayNZ

iTrader: (20)

thats awesome thanks very much mate. I'll check out the FF forum.

Chiefy 707

Hey guys I've been searching, is there a one way diff available for this chassis?

I haven't seen one listed under the option parts for any of the variants of the S411. Can a one way from another similar type TC be easily adapted?

Thanks in advance!

dan_vector

iTrader: (27)

There is one for the S400. Not sure if it would fit the S411. If you search the serpent site for 'one way' it'll come up.

Johnny Wishbone

iTrader: (6)

So I have been meaning to post this shock build that seems to work pretty good so far for me. Unfortunately, I had a few picsw to go with this, but the quality isn't very good and then the size was tto big to actually get them on here.

Reguardless, here is the build. I use the blue orings that come in the Traxxas #2362, along with these I use the shims from Yokomo ZC-S40 and finally I use the Tamiya bladders, (sorry no part number).

I only run one of the orings in each shock and use a spacer to take up the spacing difference as the Traxxas oring is quite a bit thinner. The spacer I use can be made up of either nylon shock spacers or washers, I use the nylon part to cut down on loose parts. The thickness should take up the thickness of one of the stock orings that you are eliminating.
Below the blue oring I use the Yokomo shim(s) and then the lower shock cap. The shims do a couple of things and allow you to do a bit of leak control and drag control. Because the shims outer diameter is a perfect fit for the outside but has a little larger inner hole for the shaft to slide thru. By doing this it will squish the oring on the outer diameter and tighten the inner hole, thus giving a better seal. I started off using a 0.5mm shim which worked very good. The nice thing is that the other thickness shims allow you to add or subtract to get a controlled tightness on the oring.

If you feel that a single oring isn't enough you can double up on the blue oring. Running a guide washer, oring, shim, oring, shim. The nice thing about these orings are that they are like a xring, or two small lips for seal. They also are quite a bit thinner than a normal oring so it gives you some room to play with the shims. I have also found they don't seem to swell or harden up as bad as some of the alternates.

I use the Tamiya black bladders just beacuse I like the feel of them a little better and the rounded lip on the outer ring make them easier to put the cap over them. I also have the Yokomo clearsh blue bladders, but haven't tried them out yet, but I think they can be a good substitude for the Tamiya ones. The one thing I find with the Tamiya bladders is that I can get a shock with less rebound than when using other bladders. I may try the bladders that come with the Traxxas oring kit above, but again haven't had the chance to try them yet.

Chiefy 707

So now that leads to my next question. How different are the bulkheads between the S400 and S411?

Thanks!

tiago890

iTrader: (8)

Hey Guys,
Cracked my top deck at this past weekends race, managed to glue it together along with some fiber tape to let me finish the day, but hurt me in the long run as car was getting to much flex, in need of a new top deck and was wondering what you guys would suggest to get, local track is small, 80' x 40' and technical, was running the stock top deck that came with the TE. Suggestions are greatly appreciated.
Cheers,

tiago890

iTrader: (8)

double post

Byronf1

What kind of surface you are running on? is it high grip or low?

tiago890

iTrader: (8)

its carpet, and usually takes a spray of sxt before we run, so usually high grip especially when the temp starts warming up through out the day

Byronf1

Does someone is using hudy servo horn on the Eryx?

Byronf1

may be you should try the hard wishbones... and the hard top deck 401431 if you are experimenting too much flex...

JAM Racing

iTrader: (2)

S400 is about 4 to 5 mills wider across the bulheads ..havnt measured the rest
all the best