xevias

iTrader: (1)

1) Cut a square piece of bag
2) Lay it over the steering rack
3) Place bearing on bag and push into rack hole
4) Laugh, knowing your high end toy car is rigged like a Chinese rickshaw hauling goat poop to the dump.

It works very well.

BardSmith

iTrader: (64)

Thanks for the awesome description, I'll give it shot.

snuvet75

iTrader: (16)

I think the writer means this,
1. lay down the steering lever(upside down)
2. put a layer of plastic bag inside the package over the lever.
3. put the 2 bearings over the bag where the bearing holes are.
4. Push'em down into the holes
5. 4. will cut the bag as they go into the holes but leave a ring of the plastic bag between the bearings and steering lever.
I just checked his thread too. I will try that and leave a feedback.

Regarding servo saver, the guy basically confirms that it's a design flaw. I will have to trim the servo mount then.. It's just annoying that many parts have to be altered out of box. H arms, ball links, sway bar mount, servo mount, steering rack, etc.. To me, serpent in electric world has a long way to go to live up to their nitro reputation.

Johnny Wishbone

iTrader: (6)

If your referencing the actual steering rack bearings, then yes these can be a problem. There have been several fixes posted for this for both the V1 and V2 rack since they both use the pressed in bearings and have been known to loosen after a while.

Why did the flanged bearings not work? I thought this would be the ulitimate fix for this problem.

The posted fix is as follows;
Using a few of the shims that used to be used on old brushed motor armatuers, build up the space between the steering lever and the rack baering so it has a small amount of clearence. On the top side of the rack, again, use the shims to take up the gap between the rack bearing and the top of the rack. Now find a slightly oversized thin washer, as long as its bigger than the bearing diameter, to cover the bearing. Now put the screw thru the assembly of washers, but make sure that you use blue locktite on the screw. This should capture the rack and the bearing allowing for a little float so there is no bind, and keeps the bearing in the rack. (Final assembly should be, screw, big washer, small shim(s), rack bearing, small shim(s), into the steering lever.

I have used this for over 2 years with no rack problems.

Johnny Wishbone

iTrader: (6)

I use either a plastic bag or saran wrap, depending on how much gap has to be made up. When you use it on any of the aluminum pieces the sharp edges pretty much cut the plastic as you press the parts together. I also will use the same process if I have a loose bearing in the plastic hubs or rear uprights, especially if there is a small amount of movement in the final assembly. Its more of a picky thing for me, but prefer to have as little slop as possible in the final build. The thing is that no matter what as the car ages, the plastic will loosen up and this is a cheap way to keep the car tight.

A lot of what was written for the "tips" was mentioned to make your build easier, taking into account that your components may vary in the final build process. Things to take into account but may not neccesarily require attention, but I thought it was better to mention it to watch out for, then to not say anything at all. Other things mentioned where more due to being on the picky side of putting a kit together (It would have assembled ok without the tips).

As far as the serfo saver goes, remember that the actual car is supplied with no servo saver and was intended to be run with the solid servo arm off the servo, so the fit probably wasn't even considered. Of course most of us tend to bang boards, so savers are the norm for the rest of us.

gearhead_22

iTrader: (10)

put all the new parts in my shocks and they worked out just right. thanks for all the help guys.

wwddww34

iTrader: (9)

Thanks for doing the research and finding a fix for the slop in shocks. I have ordered these parts so I can fix mine too.

tiago890

iTrader: (8)

Hey Guys,
Just wanted to know if any one has a good setup sheet i can start from other than the one the kit comes with.
Thanks,

Johnny Wishbone

iTrader: (6)

What surface are you running on? Lots of setups here, http://www.petitrc.com/reglages/serp...ntS4112.0.html

valk

iTrader: (13)

still rocking my Team edition mostly stock. cleaned the bearings last week and did all i can to reduce driveline friction. played around with wheelbase settings, moving the central mass foward and both axles back for more turn in and finally a little bit of anti squat. turn in was SUPER aggressive, but the rear end wouldnt let go unless i totally let off the throttle. this is in 17.5 blinky.

Managed double TQ in stock and nitro, finishing second in stock but on same lap as guy who has a loooot more exp so happy. won nitro.

friend is not going to be running in our big annual summer race so he loaning me his T4 to run in touring stock. gonna run the s411 in modified but as our track is parkinglot size im going to put in my 10.5 and hope to compete lol.
whats a good starting rollout for a 10.5 will full boost? ill be running a softer 10.5 from my pancar on a tekin rs. the mod cars last year werent doing more than a half second faster on average than our amain stock drivers so speed isnt super important. I just want it smooth in the infield, using the boost on the straight just to keep up to the 4.5 cars.

funny that people have issues with the stock setup? im running 90% of the box stock te setup. above i mentioned moving the axles rearward 1mm. Car is fast but almost too safe? maybe ill try a stiffer top plate depending on the layout at speedweekend.

tiago890

iTrader: (8)

Hey, running on carpet, small technical track.
Thanks,

Phoenix82

iTrader: (5)

Hey guys, I am the proud owner of a S411. I have been reading the posted since about page 180. Wow. Lots of great info so far. I'm looking forward to getting the car and going through as its used, once it get it home. ill post a few pics and like some advise on upgrades, and mods.

I do have two questions I can ask now. Anybody running Aluminum C-hubs, knuckles or rear uprights or would you say to stick with all the stock plastic? Second, what would guys say to pick up for shim's,springs, and general extras?

Thanks. Nick K

valk

iTrader: (13)

Hey Nick.K. Nick.K here welcoming you to the family lol.

browsing around most setups, the car is very close to kit stock with very subtle changes. most people seem to like the black springs so id probably get a pair of those. very similar to the yellow springs just a tiny bit stiffer.

the stock car is very fast but maybe pick up all the hard suspension parts for the 2.0 eryx.
i picked these up http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...3x5mm-Shim-Set
to help with some of the slop in the suspension/chub pins but the stock car comes with all the shims you really need. a set of 3x5x1 shims would help to have around but not critical. had my TE since november and left the shimming largely alone.

Aluminum is good if you hit things. the hard parts are just as good and lighter. if you do hit things, watch the bearings. clean them out regularly. doesnt take a lot to screw them up ive noticed.

Phoenix82

iTrader: (5)

Thanks for the Welcome: I have known Johnny Wishbone for 15 years now and he knows me as a racer better then anyone. I am not a bad driver but, when im off. I drive like that plinko game. real bad. here are 2 pics of the car i bought, tell me what you think. What you see is what I got.

Thanks
Nick K

Timbo99

iTrader: (14)

Hey Nick,another welcome to the forum!
Pics are pretty small but it looks like there's plenty of spares to see you through for a while.
This car is so adaptable to many,many different tracks,high and low grip.
Is it a 411,or a Team Edition?
Either way it will surprise you with how well it drives,out-of-the-box.
Look forward to answering any questions,the guys here are all great and very experienced.
Wish you the best of luck!
Regards
Tim