Mugen MTX-4
05-02-2006, 12:11 PM
#4546
i would suggest using 25t pulley. you could also check the chart for the gearing ratio. this should solve the loose belt issue and you'll also notice you could run same tire diameter for front and rear. Easier to put overdrive on the car also... just an opinion 
about the small clutch bearings, they don't last as long compared to the mtx-3 type clutch bearing. however, we've tried aftermarket bearings and they seemed to last longer. try AVID RC BEARING (they did last the whole week racing and an hour main in Vegas
) . We also tried ceramic bearing, and boy they're smooth! Try to look on ebay. Last longer too. Take note on meshing the gears; very important! 
about the small clutch bearings, they don't last as long compared to the mtx-3 type clutch bearing. however, we've tried aftermarket bearings and they seemed to last longer. try AVID RC BEARING (they did last the whole week racing and an hour main in Vegas
) . We also tried ceramic bearing, and boy they're smooth! Try to look on ebay. Last longer too. Take note on meshing the gears; very important!
05-02-2006, 12:26 PM
#4547
Originally Posted by rcfoolz
In the clutch, the 3 bearings I havn't had a problem with them there, but the ones in the break and in the steering servo saver, I've lost 4 of the little buggers in this area. I lost breaks this past weekend and I tried everything, then I finally pulled the rear section off the chassis and found that the lower bearing was completely shot. Anybody else have this happen?
Probably you crushed it without knowing it ?
05-02-2006, 12:28 PM
#4548
Originally Posted by rcracerdude
i would suggest using 25t pulley. you could also check the chart for the gearing ratio. this should solve the loose belt issue and you'll also notice you could run same tire diameter for front and rear. Easier to put overdrive on the car also... just an opinion
05-02-2006, 02:13 PM
#4550
take your time setting the gap/play of the clutch bell. the bearings, since they are smaller than the mtx-3, require a little more attention and checking.
i like checking and replacing (if necessary) the clutch bearings every about 2 hours of runtime. replacing them don't hurt too bad because i get them from www.avidrc.com and they are only a buck each (the same price goes for all the other bearings for the car, by the way).
i also do some extra steps before installing new clutch bearings that make them roll faster/more free. and it also avoid excess grease to fly-off to the clutch which can cause slip.
1. blast off the stock grease inside the bearing using air compressor.
2. spray with motor cleaner or denature alcohol to get rid of the grease then blast with the air compressor again.
3. once they dry off, i lightly oil the bearings with light bearing oil.
these steps are pretty easy and quick but you will see the difference. spin the clutch bell with unprepped bearings and then try it with prepped ones. the prepped bearings make the clutch bell spin so much faster and longer.
i like checking and replacing (if necessary) the clutch bearings every about 2 hours of runtime. replacing them don't hurt too bad because i get them from www.avidrc.com and they are only a buck each (the same price goes for all the other bearings for the car, by the way).
i also do some extra steps before installing new clutch bearings that make them roll faster/more free. and it also avoid excess grease to fly-off to the clutch which can cause slip.
1. blast off the stock grease inside the bearing using air compressor.
2. spray with motor cleaner or denature alcohol to get rid of the grease then blast with the air compressor again.
3. once they dry off, i lightly oil the bearings with light bearing oil.
these steps are pretty easy and quick but you will see the difference. spin the clutch bell with unprepped bearings and then try it with prepped ones. the prepped bearings make the clutch bell spin so much faster and longer.
05-02-2006, 03:06 PM
#4551
Originally Posted by asw7576
Do you use 25t or 24t side pulley ? Which one do you feel comfortable driving it ?
However, the 25t pulley gives a better handling for the car since you could easily adjust overdrive without sacrificing too much of tire split, i.e. gives the car better turn-in. I guess, its all up to personal preferences...
05-02-2006, 06:16 PM
#4552
I don't see why rubber shielded bearings in the clutch bell are a problem. Even the front bearing on the crankcase has a rubber shield and that gets more heat than the clutchbell.
Also the 25t pulley does give a more balanced car I noticed when you are looking for more steering because you don't have to run a split to maintain a 1:1 drive ratio and that will mean your rear roll center is higher. This is from having the add more preload to the rear shocks in order to maintain ride height which will flatten the angle of the lower arms.
Also the 25t pulley does give a more balanced car I noticed when you are looking for more steering because you don't have to run a split to maintain a 1:1 drive ratio and that will mean your rear roll center is higher. This is from having the add more preload to the rear shocks in order to maintain ride height which will flatten the angle of the lower arms.
05-02-2006, 09:06 PM
#4553
24 and 25 pulley is mostly matters for overdrive or ez words front tyre vs rear tyre rotation. It depends on which and what track you are running and ofcoz what do you want the car to do.
Centax bearing is very crucial for me to take care,i have to make sure it is nicely place,lubricated and good condition.X3 and X4 bearing are different,i still like then X3 bearing coz it last better compares to X4 but rotation speed turns back to X4 due to the size.Normally i will assemble by using small shim size as inner diameter the bearing to avoid both inner bearing touching while the rotation take place.Vobles?ooo..thats very much giving me worries.So far,i lost 2 centax inner bearing for my 8races.
bearing without seal is more higher rotation,steel cover is better than rubber interms of bearing rotation,more smooth.
Centax bearing is very crucial for me to take care,i have to make sure it is nicely place,lubricated and good condition.X3 and X4 bearing are different,i still like then X3 bearing coz it last better compares to X4 but rotation speed turns back to X4 due to the size.Normally i will assemble by using small shim size as inner diameter the bearing to avoid both inner bearing touching while the rotation take place.Vobles?ooo..thats very much giving me worries.So far,i lost 2 centax inner bearing for my 8races.
bearing without seal is more higher rotation,steel cover is better than rubber interms of bearing rotation,more smooth.
05-03-2006, 06:32 PM
#4557
Originally Posted by Jo Gutierrez
i like checking and replacing (if necessary) the clutch bearings every about 2 hours of runtime. replacing them don't hurt too bad because i get them from www.avidrc.com and they are only a buck each (the same price goes for all the other bearings for the car, by the way).
i also do some extra steps before installing new clutch bearings that make them roll faster/more free. and it also avoid excess grease to fly-off to the clutch which can cause slip.
1. blast off the stock grease inside the bearing using air compressor.
2. spray with motor cleaner or denature alcohol to get rid of the grease then blast with the air compressor again.
3. once they dry off, i lightly oil the bearings with light bearing oil.
these steps are pretty easy and quick but you will see the difference. spin the clutch bell with unprepped bearings and then try it with prepped ones. the prepped bearings make the clutch bell spin so much faster and longer.
i also do some extra steps before installing new clutch bearings that make them roll faster/more free. and it also avoid excess grease to fly-off to the clutch which can cause slip.
1. blast off the stock grease inside the bearing using air compressor.
2. spray with motor cleaner or denature alcohol to get rid of the grease then blast with the air compressor again.
3. once they dry off, i lightly oil the bearings with light bearing oil.
these steps are pretty easy and quick but you will see the difference. spin the clutch bell with unprepped bearings and then try it with prepped ones. the prepped bearings make the clutch bell spin so much faster and longer.
05-03-2006, 06:33 PM
#4558
Originally Posted by GrandeGixxer
I have a 1900 mah Lipo with a VXR regulator(Thanks Rich, got it today). SHould be good to run for a whole day, takes a little longer to charge though.
05-03-2006, 06:40 PM
#4559
Originally Posted by rmdhawaii
If cost wasn't a factor, would you be using ceramics instead?
The prices are beginning to come down a little now with the hybrid bearings. You can get a set of them for about half the price of full ceramics. They should be just as free though. The only ceramics I have on my car are the clutch bearings. I have not raced it with them yet, so I don't have a durability report, but it spins very freely. The first race I will be attending will be next weekend! I am ready.
05-03-2006, 08:18 PM
#4560
hi rmd,
yes i have tried ceramics and they are nice also. but as long as the clutch bearings are "prepped" they will spin
freely even if they are not ceramics.
the cost factor is the big issue. as far as the rotational weight goes, the clutch bearings are so small that it is almost a nonfactor.
the cost for 5x8x2.5 ceramics is around $7 (the average anyway)
the cost for avid 5x8x2.5 is $1
so to have the complete set, which is three bearings in our case, it will be $21 for ceramics and the avid will be $3.
by using the regular bearings, you can replace them 7 times just to match the cost of the ceramics. say you replace them every 2 hours of run, that's 14 hours of runtime. by the time the ceramics get close to even 10 hours of run time they are probably gone already or be gritty and have a lot of wobble anyways.
as for your question, if the ceramics are $1 each like avid, yes, i'll use them. but since i really didn't see performace gain by going to ceramic clutch bearings, i'll stick to my dollar bearings
yes i have tried ceramics and they are nice also. but as long as the clutch bearings are "prepped" they will spin
freely even if they are not ceramics.
the cost factor is the big issue. as far as the rotational weight goes, the clutch bearings are so small that it is almost a nonfactor.
the cost for 5x8x2.5 ceramics is around $7 (the average anyway)
the cost for avid 5x8x2.5 is $1
so to have the complete set, which is three bearings in our case, it will be $21 for ceramics and the avid will be $3.
by using the regular bearings, you can replace them 7 times just to match the cost of the ceramics. say you replace them every 2 hours of run, that's 14 hours of runtime. by the time the ceramics get close to even 10 hours of run time they are probably gone already or be gritty and have a lot of wobble anyways.
as for your question, if the ceramics are $1 each like avid, yes, i'll use them. but since i really didn't see performace gain by going to ceramic clutch bearings, i'll stick to my dollar bearings