Mugen MTX-4
07-08-2006, 07:39 PM
#5296
Originally Posted by Glenn
when is the ProSpec comin'?
Shouldnt be too far away now before the worlds Id say
07-09-2006, 11:19 PM
#5297
Originally Posted by bshy1
Hey Roger, congrats on the race. Sounds like you was hooked up. Since you are my hero now. 
Any thoughts on the use of purple springs vs light blue on a parking lot track that has a 180 straight with a technical infield. Bite is good using 40 to 37 shore.
Any thoughts on the use of purple springs vs light blue on a parking lot track that has a 180 straight with a technical infield. Bite is good using 40 to 37 shore.Roger Serafin
07-09-2006, 11:24 PM
#5298
bshy1:
Photos before the pass
Photos before the pass
07-10-2006, 09:54 AM
#5300
Originally Posted by Adim_X
What are the best things to do to lighten the car. I dont wanna sacrifice a lot of durability, but my car was like a 100grams heavy without the body at my last pro series race.
07-10-2006, 09:58 AM
#5301
Originally Posted by Adim_X
What are the best things to do to lighten the car. I dont wanna sacrifice a lot of durability, but my car was like a 100grams heavy without the body at my last pro series race.
1. Titanium parts - pivot balls, turnbuckles, steering rods, mid-shaft, screws, etc.
2. Optional engine mounts
3. Ceramic bearings
4. Cross-drill out pulley adapters - be careful not to take off too much
5. Check you bodies - some are heavier than others, remove as much as possible
6. Lipo battery (I've nevered tried this but I hear it works well.)
There are plenty of other things you can do, but they may compromise the integrity of the parts/car.
07-10-2006, 10:07 AM
#5302
In addition to what Roger said there are plenty more things that you can do to lighten your car without sacrificing durability.
Hollow/lightened 2 speed shaft from skyline or kfactory
Lightened 1st gear oneway and 2nd gear housing. Kawahara or kfactory
Skyline has a titanium front middleshaft
Remember when you replace plastic parts with metal ones normally the part will add weight to the car. Replacing metal parts with lighter metal parts will lighten it. There is also a difference in what the different engines weigh. I weighed 4 cylinder heads one time (some stock and some aftermarket) and found a 22 gram difference just in the weight of the cylinder heads!!
Hollow/lightened 2 speed shaft from skyline or kfactory
Lightened 1st gear oneway and 2nd gear housing. Kawahara or kfactory
Skyline has a titanium front middleshaft
Remember when you replace plastic parts with metal ones normally the part will add weight to the car. Replacing metal parts with lighter metal parts will lighten it. There is also a difference in what the different engines weigh. I weighed 4 cylinder heads one time (some stock and some aftermarket) and found a 22 gram difference just in the weight of the cylinder heads!!
07-10-2006, 10:38 AM
#5303
Also, if you need to make legal weight limit, just replace the screws with the Ti screw set A to lighten up the top and keep the heavier screws at the bottom.
I personally would start with the drive train. Get the car to spool up faster. Especailly cross-drilling out pulley adapters like Sohlman mentioned. And light weight shafts and 1st & 2nd spur gear housings that Scott listed. If you still hit stuff, I would suggest only replacing the rear pillow balls with Ti, only because I'm not familiar with Mugen's Ti quality. Does anyone have experience with these? As for the stock pb's, they are way way stronger than Kyosho's. About as strong or stronger as Kyosho's 1/8 Evola black pb's, but with even less material.
Scott, who makes the light weight 1st and 2nd gear housings on TeamTaylor's aftermarket section of their site? They look pretty trick and seem to keep material down to a minimum. I currently have the Kawahara ones.
I personally would start with the drive train. Get the car to spool up faster. Especailly cross-drilling out pulley adapters like Sohlman mentioned. And light weight shafts and 1st & 2nd spur gear housings that Scott listed. If you still hit stuff, I would suggest only replacing the rear pillow balls with Ti, only because I'm not familiar with Mugen's Ti quality. Does anyone have experience with these? As for the stock pb's, they are way way stronger than Kyosho's. About as strong or stronger as Kyosho's 1/8 Evola black pb's, but with even less material.
Scott, who makes the light weight 1st and 2nd gear housings on TeamTaylor's aftermarket section of their site? They look pretty trick and seem to keep material down to a minimum. I currently have the Kawahara ones.
07-10-2006, 12:37 PM
#5305
Are those high torque replacement belts on ebay any better than the mugen belts?
07-10-2006, 01:13 PM
#5306
I could not find the belts on ebay. I can say this. Mugen makes urethane belts (stock) and rubber optional belts. I had the original urethane belts on my car for months and they still look brand new. I changed to the rubber belts as they free up the car a bit. I have stripped a side belt and a rear belt, but even that is after quite a bit of running. The stock belts are just fine.
07-10-2006, 01:52 PM
#5308
Originally Posted by Osiris 75
Is anyone using the 3 Racing aluminum front diff. housing?? I'm having a very tough time getting it in the car.. It seems to be a tight fit with the belt, and when I do squeeze it in, it has a difficult time turning..
07-10-2006, 03:25 PM
#5309
Originally Posted by Osiris 75
Is anyone using the 3 Racing aluminum front diff. housing?? I'm having a very tough time getting it in the car.. It seems to be a tight fit with the belt, and when I do squeeze it in, it has a difficult time turning..
07-10-2006, 03:34 PM
#5310
Originally Posted by Scott Fisher
I could not find the belts on ebay. I can say this. Mugen makes urethane belts (stock) and rubber optional belts. I had the original urethane belts on my car for months and they still look brand new. I changed to the rubber belts as they free up the car a bit. I have stripped a side belt and a rear belt, but even that is after quite a bit of running. The stock belts are just fine.