UN4RACING

iTrader: (22)

I'm running the stock RTR kit and converted the electronic.
I'm running 6000mah from max amps.
I had to add 40 grams just to tame the car enough to control it with a 5.5 Novak.
The weight makes a huge difference when running a hot motor.
As long as the packs fit with little or no mods I would recommend 8000 or more just for the weight.
6000 mah on up will make unbelievable run times.
The added weight is unnecessary in mod.

Even an 8000 mah would possibly be lighter? I wonder how many mah's it would take to match the weight of a sub-c?

party_wagon

iTrader: (29)

I was curious if any one has done some testing w/ the astro flight using a power source that doesn't deliver the 13 amps or so to see how much current something like a 10 amp source can deliver.

Doug T

iTrader: (114)

I think Craps is out of town. I can help some of you guys out.

Chrominator- I haven't seen those chargers, Craps might know more about those.

Those are the batteries that Craps is talking about. The Maxamps will fit in the MF2 tray and get the wires coming out the top corner. The Thunder Power 8000 battery you have a link to is the correct battery but shows the wrong picture of the actual battery. The TP 8000 has the wires coming out the top center of the pack. The TP pack is actually around 48mm wide. You will have to dremmel down the sides of the battery box on the MF2 to get it to fit in. With some dremmel work it will fit in. Here is a link to a TP 8000 http://www.dynamoelectrics.com/detail.aspx?ID=1007. I tried the TrueRC 8000 in my MF1 with dermmeled down sides and it would not fit. You will have to make a home made battery hold down as both packs are taller than a regular NiMh. The TP pack is taller than the Maxamps pack.

I don't store my Li-Po's in anything but a regular plastic battery box (I know I probably should store it in something safer). Any metal type box will work good, an old ammo box or something.

Nitrotruckn- You will want to get the Maxamps with the battery lead coming out the top corner. The Thunder Power pack has the leads coming out the top center of the pack. The TrueRC 6400 looks like a good pack, but I am not sure if it will make 20 minutes with a hotter 6.5 or 5.5 system (and that all depends on track size, track conditions, traction, etc). Any body tired the True RC 6400 with a 6.5 or 5.5 type system?

I'm with Cain on that one. I would keep the same mAh packs for weight and handling of the vehicles.


party_wagon- I used to use a Novak N power, power supply to power my Astro Flight 109 and it is a 10 amp power supply. I was charging my 8000's at 8 amps with no problem.

Craps

Thanks Doug and I believed you answered all the questions except the charger. Looking at the specs of those chargers they are nice and have alot of features, but I don't have any experience with either. I just got a Thunder Power T1010C that has alot features and will read and balance the cells with a data cable link to the TP balancer.

The TP charger is my favorite, but the good Astro Flight 109 is hard to beat for just charging and I do own a Duratrax ICE that I use to charge my nickel batteries with because it is slower than the AF109.

See ya'll at the Nats in New Mexico!!!!

Cain

iTrader: (294)

Any of you guys using the MRC 989?

nitrotruckn

iTrader: (4)

Thanks for all the information everyone.

cola

iTrader: (308)

This is what I am running. But I have added 2oz of weight to it and I am running the xxxt MF1 rear with GEN1 trans. I added the weight in the battery tray, I put 1oz of weight under the front battery foam and 1oz under the rear battery foam. I was running the setup on a very rutted and dusty track and it was very fast.

FRONT
toe: -1*
Ride Height: Arms level
Camber: -1*
Caster: Stock
Sway Bar: None
Oil: 30wt
Piston: 56 (Standard)
Spring: Red
Limiters: .050
Spindle Location: Bottom
Camber Link: 2b
Washers: 1 washer under ball stud
Shock Location: Middle, 2
Bellcrank: Outside
Arms: Long Mode




REAR


Toe: 3*
Ride Height: Bones level
Camber: -1*
Anti squat: 2*
Rear Hub Spacing: Center
Sway Bar: None
Oil: 30wt
Piston: 56 (standard)
Spring: Yellow
Limiters: None
Drive Shafts: CVDs---------- Steel
Rear Cmaber Link: 2b
Rear Shock Location: 2, Middle
Arms: Short Mode

Gearing: 17/87
Motor: Novak 6.5
Battery: Middle (6000mah)
Body: Losi MF2
Spoiler: Stock


Notes: I am running an Associated B4 spur gear and slipper pads.







Hope this helps,
David

scoob

I've got my truck dialed lately. I run TP8000 packs and they weigh in at about 12 OZ or about 2-2.5 OZ. lighter than NIHM. I am running an old ss5800 motor converted to 8.5 PRO with the sintered rotor and new endbell. I also have a Velocity 6.5 with sintered upgrade for big tracks. Both on GTB.

I added 3/4 OZ. of wieght under the foam behind battery to get closer to NIMH wieght. The truck is driving better for me right now than it ever has.

Pro-Truck forever baby!

party_wagon

iTrader: (29)

Just a heads up for you guys running the xxx-ts, if you run the rtrs rear shock tower it will make the rear end much more durable on a rough nitro track. The tower will absorb the blows that the arms would take otherwise thus it helps keep the truck togather.

*Chrominator*

iTrader: (19)

Thanks for advice guys.
whats the largest Lipo/mah that will fit in the stock battery tray with the original hold down strap ?

party_wagon

iTrader: (29)

I would have 2 say that true rc.com 6400.

*Chrominator*

iTrader: (19)

I just went to the true rc web site and it says that it's 26mm tall , that's the same as the Max Amp 8000mah.
My 4300 NMH is 23mm and it's a tight fit. I want to get the largest I can with out any modification.

Rick here's that link.
http://rclovers.com/GetTheMostFromLipo.htm

Leodis

iTrader: (16)

I think that would be the Maxamps 6000 and I've heard rumors that Orion is coming out with a 6000 soon that will fit with no mods too. Just go with the 8000 and do the mod. You won't regret it.

http://www.maxamps.com/proddetail.ph...74-Pack&cat=13

chrlie sidebite

Yea what Leodis said

UN4RACING

iTrader: (22)

Ditto.