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Old 05-26-2011, 09:54 PM
  #10366  
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Originally Posted by entitymugenmtx
I have a question adding and removing shims from the Upper Bulkhead what does it do?
So far I've found...

Adding shims on the front bulkhead slows the steering down, you get a little more initial steer and less mid corner. If your car is breaking loose mid corner adding 1mm shim can help. Removing shims makes the car a bit more aggressive and increases mid corner steering

On the rear I find it more simple, more shims = more grip, less shims = less grip. I've also found that having more shims than you "need" drastically reduces corner speed.

All that said, with the 416 any time I changed from 5mm F and 3mm R the car was crap
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Old 05-27-2011, 10:50 AM
  #10367  
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Thanks Craig
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Old 05-31-2011, 06:11 AM
  #10368  
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Originally Posted by Johnny Wishbone
I have not, but I have talked to a person that has and they said they had to do a fair amount of dremeling to get the johnson to fit. And he emphisized "a lot" of dremeling.
Hi guys,

Outdated question, but is there anyway I could get a Johnson 540 on my TRF416 without having to dremel? Is there a aftermarket motor mount that I could buy?

Sorry if this has already been discussed to death.

Thanks.
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Old 06-01-2011, 04:05 PM
  #10369  
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I'm looking to put my 416X on a diet, but the Tamiya 49488 titanium screw set appears no longer available. Is there an alternative? Does the 417 set have the same mix?
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Old 06-01-2011, 04:25 PM
  #10370  
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Originally Posted by PDR
I'm looking to put my 416X on a diet, but the Tamiya 49488 titanium screw set appears no longer available. Is there an alternative? Does the 417 set have the same mix?
The TRF417 titanium screw set will work for TRF416X with the optional Lipo chassis. I don't see why they won't be compatible since the standard X chassis has fewer screw count than the lipo one. One way is to compare the manuals side-by-side.

I bought TF417 titanium screw set for my TRF416XL and all fit perfectly.
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Old 06-01-2011, 05:55 PM
  #10371  
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Originally Posted by PDR
I'm looking to put my 416X on a diet, but the Tamiya 49488 titanium screw set appears no longer available. Is there an alternative? Does the 417 set have the same mix?
Phil I think I have a 416 ti screw set that I bought and then never used, it might be short a few screws but you're welcome to it if I still have it.

How come your car is so heavy though? I was always running at least 50g of weight even when I was running spec class with heatsink and fans??
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Old 06-01-2011, 08:02 PM
  #10372  
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Originally Posted by CraigM
Phil I think I have a 416 ti screw set that I bought and then never used, it might be short a few screws but you're welcome to it if I still have it.
Neat - I'll have a chat to you on Sunday.

Originally Posted by CraigM
How come your car is so heavy though? I was always running at least 50g of weight even when I was running spec class with heatsink and fans??
It's a good question! Heavy bones? I think it's partly lack of attention to detail on my part and the weight has accumulated in a variety of places. The Challenge Cup body is very heavy, due to the large quantity of stickers (but I love it ) and the other factor is the larger batteries I bought. The RSPro, LRP motor and heatsink fan aren't the lightest going around, so as I said, I think it's just been building up in several places.

I won't worry about it for this weekend, but before the State Titles should have some time to fine tune things.
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Old 06-02-2011, 03:50 AM
  #10373  
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Here's some pics - I'm not unhappy with this. The battery is the furthest setting from the centreline and I've added 25g to the outside of that to get it to balance L/R. With the GT body, it tips the scales at 1494g.

I suppose if I flip the belts I could move the receiver and speedy in a bit...
Attached Thumbnails Tamiya TRF416 / TRF416WE / TRF416X-img_2964.jpg   Tamiya TRF416 / TRF416WE / TRF416X-img_2965.jpg  
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Old 06-02-2011, 04:13 AM
  #10374  
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Strange Phil, ive gotta put 60grams on mine to make weight when running the same combo...as it sits im at 1430,,,,1440 with HPI body.
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Old 06-02-2011, 05:30 AM
  #10375  
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Originally Posted by barts71m
Strange Phil, ive gotta put 60grams on mine to make weight when running the same combo...as it sits im at 1430,,,,1440 with HPI body.
here's a pix of my 416x smokem chassis with all bling except for gear diff and it sits on 1428 running setup.
Attached Thumbnails Tamiya TRF416 / TRF416WE / TRF416X-416x.jpg  
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Old 06-02-2011, 12:17 PM
  #10376  
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Hmmmmmmmm
Raced mine 416X with lipo chassis today with no extra alloy bits except a motorheatsink with fan and a 5300MAH lipo and i come to 1355 with body.
All those nice bling bling parts ad a lot of weight extra and make your suspension so rigid that something else will break if you hit something.

regards Roy


Originally Posted by PDR
I'm looking to put my 416X on a diet, but the Tamiya 49488 titanium screw set appears no longer available. Is there an alternative? Does the 417 set have the same mix?
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Old 06-02-2011, 01:06 PM
  #10377  
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Default Diff Slop

What advice/tips would people have for building the rear diff.

I've built mine a handful of of times, sanded rings, new pulley new diff screw but after each built the diff pulley has about 3mm of movement ever side with the diff tighten pretty well. I've sanded the pulley inside to make sure it is smooth as suggested, but I'm lost.

Has anyone had this problem before and what was the solution. Cheers
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Old 06-02-2011, 01:28 PM
  #10378  
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Is this "slop" at the diff outdrives or is this measured at the wheels?
Every gear type transmision has some sort of slop.
If not the gears would be very tight.
I build Spec-R diffs and the 3Racing gear diffs and they both have a small amount of slop.
It gets bigger when you have the dogbones on it and turn the wheels but when moving the outdrives it seems very little.

regards Roy
Ps any one else having problems with leaking Spec-R diffs?
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Old 06-02-2011, 03:27 PM
  #10379  
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Originally Posted by aussierevo
What advice/tips would people have for building the rear diff.

I've built mine a handful of of times, sanded rings, new pulley new diff screw but after each built the diff pulley has about 3mm of movement ever side with the diff tighten pretty well. I've sanded the pulley inside to make sure it is smooth as suggested, but I'm lost.

Has anyone had this problem before and what was the solution. Cheers
What do you mean by slop? Do you mean the pulley wobbles side to side?
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Old 06-02-2011, 05:58 PM
  #10380  
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yep, that's the case, the pulley is moving and I'm hoping I'm just doing something silly, but I've tried a few things and not having any luck.
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