Tamiya TRF416 / TRF416WE / TRF416X
Tech Champion
iTrader: (34)
Adding shims on the front bulkhead slows the steering down, you get a little more initial steer and less mid corner. If your car is breaking loose mid corner adding 1mm shim can help. Removing shims makes the car a bit more aggressive and increases mid corner steering
On the rear I find it more simple, more shims = more grip, less shims = less grip. I've also found that having more shims than you "need" drastically reduces corner speed.
All that said, with the 416 any time I changed from 5mm F and 3mm R the car was crap
Tech Elite
iTrader: (85)
Thanks Craig
Outdated question, but is there anyway I could get a Johnson 540 on my TRF416 without having to dremel? Is there a aftermarket motor mount that I could buy?
Sorry if this has already been discussed to death.
Thanks.
Tech Elite
iTrader: (31)
I'm looking to put my 416X on a diet, but the Tamiya 49488 titanium screw set appears no longer available. Is there an alternative? Does the 417 set have the same mix?
I bought TF417 titanium screw set for my TRF416XL and all fit perfectly.
Tech Champion
iTrader: (34)
How come your car is so heavy though? I was always running at least 50g of weight even when I was running spec class with heatsink and fans??
Tech Elite
iTrader: (31)
I won't worry about it for this weekend, but before the State Titles should have some time to fine tune things.
Tech Elite
iTrader: (31)
Here's some pics - I'm not unhappy with this. The battery is the furthest setting from the centreline and I've added 25g to the outside of that to get it to balance L/R. With the GT body, it tips the scales at 1494g.
I suppose if I flip the belts I could move the receiver and speedy in a bit...
I suppose if I flip the belts I could move the receiver and speedy in a bit...
Tech Elite
iTrader: (34)
Strange Phil, ive gotta put 60grams on mine to make weight when running the same combo...as it sits im at 1430,,,,1440 with HPI body.
Tech Regular
iTrader: (2)
Tech Elite
iTrader: (13)
Hmmmmmmmm
Raced mine 416X with lipo chassis today with no extra alloy bits except a motorheatsink with fan and a 5300MAH lipo and i come to 1355 with body.
All those nice bling bling parts ad a lot of weight extra and make your suspension so rigid that something else will break if you hit something.
regards Roy
Raced mine 416X with lipo chassis today with no extra alloy bits except a motorheatsink with fan and a 5300MAH lipo and i come to 1355 with body.
All those nice bling bling parts ad a lot of weight extra and make your suspension so rigid that something else will break if you hit something.
regards Roy
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (14)
Diff Slop
What advice/tips would people have for building the rear diff.
I've built mine a handful of of times, sanded rings, new pulley new diff screw but after each built the diff pulley has about 3mm of movement ever side with the diff tighten pretty well. I've sanded the pulley inside to make sure it is smooth as suggested, but I'm lost.
Has anyone had this problem before and what was the solution. Cheers
I've built mine a handful of of times, sanded rings, new pulley new diff screw but after each built the diff pulley has about 3mm of movement ever side with the diff tighten pretty well. I've sanded the pulley inside to make sure it is smooth as suggested, but I'm lost.
Has anyone had this problem before and what was the solution. Cheers
Tech Elite
iTrader: (13)
Is this "slop" at the diff outdrives or is this measured at the wheels?
Every gear type transmision has some sort of slop.
If not the gears would be very tight.
I build Spec-R diffs and the 3Racing gear diffs and they both have a small amount of slop.
It gets bigger when you have the dogbones on it and turn the wheels but when moving the outdrives it seems very little.
regards Roy
Ps any one else having problems with leaking Spec-R diffs?
Every gear type transmision has some sort of slop.
If not the gears would be very tight.
I build Spec-R diffs and the 3Racing gear diffs and they both have a small amount of slop.
It gets bigger when you have the dogbones on it and turn the wheels but when moving the outdrives it seems very little.
regards Roy
Ps any one else having problems with leaking Spec-R diffs?
Tech Champion
iTrader: (34)
What advice/tips would people have for building the rear diff.
I've built mine a handful of of times, sanded rings, new pulley new diff screw but after each built the diff pulley has about 3mm of movement ever side with the diff tighten pretty well. I've sanded the pulley inside to make sure it is smooth as suggested, but I'm lost.
Has anyone had this problem before and what was the solution. Cheers
I've built mine a handful of of times, sanded rings, new pulley new diff screw but after each built the diff pulley has about 3mm of movement ever side with the diff tighten pretty well. I've sanded the pulley inside to make sure it is smooth as suggested, but I'm lost.
Has anyone had this problem before and what was the solution. Cheers
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (14)
yep, that's the case, the pulley is moving and I'm hoping I'm just doing something silly, but I've tried a few things and not having any luck.