Fred Hubbard

iTrader: (6)

You're welcome

pcar951

iTrader: (23)

Thanks Fred! I'll find a 1.1mm drill bit.

Fred Hubbard

iTrader: (6)

You're welcome

RC MARKET

iTrader: (12)

Instock !

entitymugenmtx

iTrader: (85)

If I set it at 63mm or 64mm what's the difference ?

Fred Hubbard

iTrader: (6)

Shorter shock (63mm) = more pack = more traction at that end of the car
Longer shock (64mm) = less pack = less traction at that end of the car

UrabusDenis

Is it possible that Xray will change the kit in the following months? My local hobby store will get the first 2012's next week, and I'm thinking whether to buy it now or later, since 1/10th racing only begins in spring. Your suggestions?

R3VoLuTiOn

iTrader: (29)

probably not until fall of 2012?

I wouldn't be able to handle buying and building the car to wait 3+ months to drive it...

rx7ttlm

iTrader: (30)

The T3 2012 was JUST released (I got my kit in the first batch of USA cars 4 weeks ago). There is a very slim chance anything will change with the kit, IF there is a revision like there has been in the past you would just contact the place you purchased the kit. But that hasn't happened since the T2 009 If I recall. And I can't think of anything that has been a problem with the 12 car. So it's safe to buy away since the kits typically get annual revisions.

M-Technic

iTrader: (15)

They rarely do running changes, so it will not change for about a full year when the next car is released.

RC.Jon22

iTrader: (27)

Any tips on bleeding the shocks? I've built TRF/AE shocks and they were very simple, but I'm having a hard time building the ones on my 12..And has anyone noticed a huge difference with the aluminum shocks or are the plastic ones preferred?

rx7ttlm

iTrader: (30)

There isn't a huge difference between the two. To build fill, bleed the air out with time or ride shock vaccum chamber. Place bladder on top of shock and with shock shaft fully extended, gently screw the cap down till it almost bottoms on the bladder. slowly compress (I use a 1 or 2mm shim to set the rebound volume.) and let the air and excess oil seep out. Tighten shock cap (not to tight! as you can damage the bladder), and compress shock assy a couple times and check rebound. If you have excessive rebound you can use the martin hudy method to remove excess oil.(invert shock and remove the bottom cap and let excess seep out, reinstall bottom cap and try again)

angelblade

Here is the deal folks, I am not new to RC but definitely new to touring cars, and the whole brushless ESC/Engine stuff. I have been reading all I can, going over the manuals etc. I told my LHS I wanted an XRAY 2012 that has fast acceleration, this is what they put together for me:


Xray T3 2012 -
Tekin RS Pro 4.5 kv Combo -
60c Lipo Battery -
Hitec X4 Charger -
Futaba S9551 Servo -
Futaba 603FF Receiver -
Sweep Tires -
Protoform DNA Body -

My biggest concern (for now), is the ESC settings, pinion etc. I don't want to blow up the motor and want it somewhat tamed and I am trying to understand the gearing, esc settings to get a good starting point that will not put me in the danger zone. Obviously this request to you guys is vague and abstract and I realize all of you are educated on this so try and be patient with me :-)....I have had my head in the game for the past 12 months with my baja 2 stroke, HPI Savage and a few mini's...this is a whole new world for me.

Dane

iTrader: (26)

First, get a 21.5 or 17.5 in that car, not a mod motor. Too much motor for your experience levels with TC. Set the Tekin to zero boost and timing.

Don't use the DNA body - use the MazdaSpeed6.

Tires depend on the track. Ask the fast guys, not the hobby shop on what to use for rubber.

If you do you own research why are you letting them put it together for you? There are threads on this forum for almost every item you listed with tons of info.

Think about spending less - too many people spend a load into TC only to find out it get them off in the first place.

morgoth

Indeed, I just started with TC without any onroad experience, but I race 1/10 and 1/8 buggies. My start combo was a Speed Passion GT pro esc and a 17.5T Speed Passion V3 since that's the most popular class here. We also drive 10.5T boosted and mod, but their are less drivers in those classes.
I can say that 17.5T boosted is pretty fast indoors. I haven't driven outside yet, but I won't take a motor faster than a 10.5T if you're driving outside.
If you don't have any race experience or you're below the average skill leven, I'd go with a 17.5T and start racing without boost. After you get used to the car and motor, you can add some boost to go faster.