rccardr

iTrader: (8)

Steve-
With a TCS USA legal motor, start at 4.5 FDR and gear up or down from there based on motor temp at 2 minutes. There is no FDR minimum in the US for GT2. If approaching 180, go down a tooth. If down around 140, consider going up a tooth depending on how the car feels.

Expect short motor life. Either the motor will get broken in enough that it will go over their 17.5K rpm limit, or it will burn up. Sad, but true.

SRBMOJO

iTrader: (67)

thanks!

[[john]]

iTrader: (24)

Hi Guys!

My Red-Dot (Full Race) motor got knocked back by the scrutineers today - Their main concern besides the strength of the magnets was the 'CS' stamped onto the brushes - Is this normal in the Tamiya 540j's ?

One on-looker suggested the motor had been bought un-assembled, worked and then sealed to look like a standard 540j.

I'm more curious then disappointed as I still TQ'd with a standard silver-can from a Tamiya kit.

TIA!

Mitch-e4fs

iTrader: (7)

There was a post a few pages back about differences in brushes. Some Tamiya/Johnson motors come with these brushes. They are super hard. I don't have any but some guys i race with have and they last a long time.

rccardr

iTrader: (8)

John, as mentioned in my e-mail response to you earlier today, it appears that your tech inspectors are somewhat behind the times.

CS brushes started appearing in legal Johnson Tamiya #53689 motors about a year ago. As the older motors were sold, stock was replaced with this later production run. These motors are perfectly legal if they meet any RPM/amp draw limit imposed by your sanctioning body, and in fact were used as handout motors at the 2010 Tamiya TCS USA Nationals.

Red Dot motors are made from new, unopened Tamiya #53689's that are purchased from Tamiya or authorized Tamiya distributors. They are not "made from parts", nor are the cans opened or resealed. Our proprietary processes are designed to work with motors that remain sealed and untampered.

[[john]]

iTrader: (24)

Thanks Guys!

Doc - I did print your email, and I will give it to the Scrutineers, basically so they now know about the CS brushes and don't knock back Silver-Cans with them in the future when there is more out there.

Thanks again guys!

SRBMOJO

iTrader: (67)

all of my new motors have CS stamped on the brushes.

drove my first silver can powered car today at the Tamiya USA track in a GT2 car. started at 4.5 fdr, car was a pig. ended up at 3.7 fdr after 5 min run with heat sink fan installed on motor, endbell read 147 degrees. Most GT2 drivers have their cars geared at 3.5 fdr. Car felt good, very drivable, and not as slow as I was expecting!

nicorozog

heyy guys.... i have a Mabushi 540 motor....but i´m from Southamerica so is difficult get Red Dot Motors of Doc.... i clean my motor with some process but i want to know your point of view about cleaners... how to clean the motor....etc etc.... the thing is that i want get more top speed on straight.. .

Thanks a lot!.

Granpa

Go back 20 or so pages and start reading from there. This has been posted any number of times. You'll have to adapt the techniques cause the materials used may not be available to you. Most use a metal or chrome polish of some kind and another very good method uses comm drops that may be difficult for you to find.
.

maxepower

iTrader: (1)

Steve,
Had to leave early today, so did Fred show up today or not. Rumor had it that he was supposedly going to make an appearance.
So, was there a Fred sighting?
How was the FF03? Did it get get better?
Inquiring minds want to know!

SRBMOJO

iTrader: (67)

I left shortly after you and only ran the GT-2 car again. There was another GT-2 car on the track and mine was very competitive. Didn't see Fred. Didn't run the FF-03 again, but should be better next week, heading in the right direction, but am contemplating a body change before I put too much effort in the setup.

Thanks for your help Max!

Steve

tmomedrano

iTrader: (4)

i just got an old lrp 7.1ipc for silvercan racing in our country, and i was planning to make my own power capacitors.

first question is do i really need one with my setup and application?

i did assemble one with 3 2200uF (in parallel), 10v, rated a 40º≥100ºc jackcon capacitors here's a link of the datahseet: http://www.jackcon.com.tw/PDF/jks.pdf

its rated at 0.016 impedance. is this good enough? i have heard that it should have a low esr but is impedance the same thing as esr? im far from being an electrical engineer. i just don't want my esc burnt... your help will be greatly appreciated...

nicorozog

Grand pa...thanks for your support....as you said...it`s kink difficult get some Comm Drops....because of the shipping rules. So Can you tell me where i can get the chemical compound of Comm Drops?...then i`ll compare here with a similar product.

And what do you think about Muchomore Comm Drops??

Finally i want to confirm the process....

1. Clean the comm with brasso
2. Use the comme drops...

rccardr

iTrader: (8)

The next production run of Red Dot full race motors will be the week of March 7th. This will be the first run of 2011 that hasn't been sold out in advance through bulk or prepaid orders, so we wanted to let folks know.

Clearly, these motors are not legal for USA/Canada TCS events, since our full race motors now pull about 20,000+ RPM at five volts with a power number of 45. They are great, however, for club racing or other venues that do not place an RPM limit on your motor.

Interested parties should shoot me an e-mail at [email protected]

Thanks!

Deaths-a-Bitch

Has any one got a good way of running in these newer CS brushes,
I have been water dipping for age's but it would be lucky if its bed in 2mm of the tip of the brush. I have not been using any comm drops just lubing the bushes.