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Old 01-21-2015, 01:28 AM
  #7156  
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Originally Posted by TORQUE ROD
Just an off topic question here. what is the best replacement for the
original servo saver?
I got the TLR alloy one for $9 or so, it's a good length if you mount the ball stud underneath the horn. Minor annoyance was that it looked like it was tapped for m3 but I think it might be a 4-40, I had to run an m3 tap through it but since you can just put a locknut on the other end it should be fine.
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Old 01-21-2015, 05:10 AM
  #7157  
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
If you have an old broke CF part, toss it in acetone for a while and see what happens. I am sure the acetone will remove the inserts, just need to see what it it will do to CF.
You don't have to put it IN the acetone. just put some acetone in a bucket then put a can in it and set the part on the can so it's suspended over the acetone. Put a lid on the bucket and let it sit for 24 hours. . It's the acetone fumes that will loosen the glue.
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Old 01-21-2015, 05:23 AM
  #7158  
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Originally Posted by Slotmachine
Pop the cup off and place an empty parts bag or simular plastic over the ball stud and pop the cup back on, tear the rest of the bag off and it tightens up the slop without becoming too tight.
Paul
Thanks. I'll give it a shot and see how it feels.
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Old 01-21-2015, 06:19 AM
  #7159  
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Originally Posted by RENOV8R
You don't have to put it IN the acetone. just put some acetone in a bucket then put a can in it and set the part on the can so it's suspended over the acetone. Put a lid on the bucket and let it sit for 24 hours. . It's the acetone fumes that will loosen the glue.
I tried the vapor thing with tires with no success. Might work with the arms, worth a try
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Old 01-21-2015, 06:39 AM
  #7160  
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
I tried the vapor thing with tires with no success. Might work with the arms, worth a try
If its cold or you don't have a tight seal it won't work as good or takes forever, but the acetone vapors work great, it's the only way I seperate tires. The only thing I don't like is the foams seem to absorbe the vapors and store them enough to actually soak them. Can't reglue them until they dry out.
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Old 01-21-2015, 07:27 AM
  #7161  
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Originally Posted by iScream
Somewhere back in the thread someone mentioned running an SWorks S104 wing so I ordered one. Easy fit and looks about 3 times thicker than the stock wing.
I did the old shoe goo and drywall mesh trick to the back of the stock wing and it's pretty well indistructable. Found this out when I drove the buggy on the track the other night. Having not driven in a couple years, I did put it through quite a torture test. Had at least 5 or 6 crashes where I thought I was done for the night, but came out without a scratch. It seemed pretty uncontrollable at the start, but just a quick tip: When calibrating the ESC for the first time and running a 6.5 motor, you may want to adjust the setting of 150% throttle before you throw it on the track LOL. Dialed it back to 75% and it was perfect
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Old 01-21-2015, 07:37 AM
  #7162  
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I have my 6.5 dialed back to 80 from 100%. I increase and lower the power as needed based on the current layout. The 6.5 does heat up my packs though. Such a current monster
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Old 01-21-2015, 08:38 AM
  #7163  
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
I have my 6.5 dialed back to 80 from 100%. I increase and lower the power as needed based on the current layout. The 6.5 does heat up my packs though. Such a current monster
Always a fine line to find the right settings. At 100% I can clear the double. At 75% I can't, but the car is so much more in control.
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Old 01-21-2015, 08:43 AM
  #7164  
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Sometimes, not clearing the jump is a better line. We had a rythm section that I could motor into and out of. But it was too inconsistent for me to do every lap. So, I took a safer line for an overall faster run. Then practice the "faster" line during practice until I can do it consistently. Just because there is a big quad, does not mean you need to do it. Unless you can do it every lap.
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Old 01-21-2015, 09:29 AM
  #7165  
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Originally Posted by RENOV8R
I did the old shoe goo and drywall mesh trick to the back of the stock wing and it's pretty well indistructable. Found this out when I drove the buggy on the track the other night. Having not driven in a couple years, I did put it through quite a torture test. Had at least 5 or 6 crashes where I thought I was done for the night, but came out without a scratch. It seemed pretty uncontrollable at the start, but just a quick tip: When calibrating the ESC for the first time and running a 6.5 motor, you may want to adjust the setting of 150% throttle before you throw it on the track LOL. Dialed it back to 75% and it was perfect
I'm sure the shoe goo would make the wing strong. I just used some to glue my 3 main body sections together last night. I'm probably going to stick with the S104 wing though. It costs the same as a new stock wing, is much thicker, and I like the way it looks better than the clear.
Attached Thumbnails Hot Bodies D413 1/10 4WD Buggy-d413_1.jpg   Hot Bodies D413 1/10 4WD Buggy-d413_2.jpg  
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Old 01-21-2015, 09:33 AM
  #7166  
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For those waiting on the aluminum shock caps, seems like we are going to have to wait a little longer. I saw that Tower just move the date from late January to mid February. Oh well. Luckily I'm ok with the stock ones but want to give the aluminum ones a try.
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Old 01-21-2015, 09:59 AM
  #7167  
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I'm actually thinking about switching to an 8.5 or maybe even 9.5 now. When I was out there Sunday there wasn't a single section of the track where I was really able to use the 6.5. Heck I was getting 20 minutes out of a 4600mah shorty pack running at close to race pace. The motor was hot but I could leave my hand on it. I didn't even have the fan on my Tekin RSX and it was just warm.

On the one long straight you come off a table top so maybe 12 feet of the 80 are gone before you can get on the throttle. You can probably be on the gas for 50 feet or so before braking for a fairly tight 90 degree turn at the end.

I like the track and think it's fun but the 6.5 just seems like a waste out there. Most of the time I was only using the first third of the throttle. For the race this coming Sunday I'm going to dial in some throttle expo and see how that feels then decide if I want to change the motor.

My LHS created the track and sold me the 6.5 when I asked what motor to run. But that was before they knew much more than the overall dimensions of 50' X 80' so it's not really their fault.
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Old 01-21-2015, 10:25 AM
  #7168  
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Originally Posted by iScream
I'm actually thinking about switching to an 8.5 or maybe even 9.5 now. When I was out there Sunday there wasn't a single section of the track where I was really able to use the 6.5. Heck I was getting 20 minutes out of a 4600mah shorty pack running at close to race pace. The motor was hot but I could leave my hand on it. I didn't even have the fan on my Tekin RSX and it was just warm.

On the one long straight you come off a table top so maybe 12 feet of the 80 are gone before you can get on the throttle. You can probably be on the gas for 50 feet or so before braking for a fairly tight 90 degree turn at the end.

I like the track and think it's fun but the 6.5 just seems like a waste out there. Most of the time I was only using the first third of the throttle. For the race this coming Sunday I'm going to dial in some throttle expo and see how that feels then decide if I want to change the motor.

My LHS created the track and sold me the 6.5 when I asked what motor to run. But that was before they knew much more than the overall dimensions of 50' X 80' so it's not really their fault.
A wise man once told me use what you need not what you have.

I can't tell you how many times I've seen people chasing tires looking for traction when the problem was all in their finger.
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Old 01-21-2015, 10:44 AM
  #7169  
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Originally Posted by iScream
Has anyone tried replacing the ball cups on the suspension links to remove slop? Or does anyone know a trick for tightening up the fit of the cups on the balls?

I think I'm going to remove the servo saver so it should be easy to find something less sloppy there but I'm not so sure about the camber and steering links.

I already have the RCShox ackerman bar installed but I really want to get some more slop out of it. Whether it makes a difference on the track or not it will make me feel better about the buggy.

-Chris
i swapped out all the ball studs and ball cups for AE B5. they are great and since i run a B5M having spares is never an issue. i did however have to swap right and left steering cups to opposite sides due to the wheels rubbing at full steering. i will post some pictures when I'm allowed.
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Old 01-21-2015, 11:04 AM
  #7170  
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Hi guys. Bevel, conical gear grease, can you recommend something ? Thanks
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