Hot Bodies D413 1/10 4WD Buggy
#9244
Tech Rookie
#9245
More likely your spur gear/mesh then the diffs
#9246
#9247
Tech Addict
iTrader: (1)
Moto67 that is some clean wiring and that car still looks brand new. The HB servo horn lines up perfect if you want to try it and try moving in your sway bar stays in more to let sway bar move more freely. See if that improves your car, but very clean you should be proud
#9248
Tech Regular
iTrader: (39)
Moto67 that is some clean wiring and that car still looks brand new. The HB servo horn lines up perfect if you want to try it and try moving in your sway bar stays in more to let sway bar move more freely. See if that improves your car, but very clean you should be proud
#9249
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (2)
Moto67 that is some clean wiring and that car still looks brand new. The HB servo horn lines up perfect if you want to try it and try moving in your sway bar stays in more to let sway bar move more freely. See if that improves your car, but very clean you should be proud
I have had people tell me to remove the front sway bar so I tried that last week and did not notice a significant change. I would like to try your mod.
#9250
Tech Addict
iTrader: (1)
Good morning, you will not see big changes with sway bars just that slight improvement. It's not a mod, I'm talking about the little orange collars. If you have those to far a part the sway bar can't move and will not work properly. You should be able to compress suspension till chassis hits ground a still be able to slide sway bar side to side.ill post pic this afternoon.a team manager for team c explained this to me when I 1st started. Heavy /thicker sway bars are for off power cornering and thinner for on power. He seems to be right, I've tested and works for me. Also I don't remember the Manuel showing or talking anything about sway bar adjustment. Lol
#9251
Good morning, you will not see big changes with sway bars just that slight improvement. It's not a mod, I'm talking about the little orange collars. If you have those to far a part the sway bar can't move and will not work properly. You should be able to compress suspension till chassis hits ground a still be able to slide sway bar side to side.ill post pic this afternoon.a team manager for team c explained this to me when I 1st started. Heavy /thicker sway bars are for off power cornering and thinner for on power. He seems to be right, I've tested and works for me. Also I don't remember the Manuel showing or talking anything about sway bar adjustment. Lol
The sway bars have nothing to do with on or off power as you described however it does effect steering on both and traction. If you run to thick of a sway bar you will not have the same low speed steering as the car won't be able to roll and you will loose traction as well for the same reason. Set your sway bars up for traction levels in the corners, if your traction rolling then thats an easy adjustment to just go up in sway bar size and still have the same shock package, you need the car to carve corners without traction rolling, "tires stay in contact on all four corners but the actual car leans". To soft and you will have tons of steering and traction roll and to hard and the card will slide and not hook up. I go to two tracks one is lower bite and I only run the rear copper bar no front sway bar with the same shock oil and on the other I put both black sway bars on and the two cars cannot be drove fast on the other track.
#9253
Tech Addict
iTrader: (1)
you are correct on the collors need to be free side to side as well as the set screw that goes into the shock tower mount to not pinch the bar and cause a bind. Basically you want your suspension free and both of these things are noticable if you take your tires and shocks off and try and raise and let the arms fall on there own.
The sway bars have nothing to do with on or off power as you described however it does effect steering on both and traction. If you run to thick of a sway bar you will not have the same low speed steering as the car won't be able to roll and you will loose traction as well for the same reason. Set your sway bars up for traction levels in the corners, if your traction rolling then thats an easy adjustment to just go up in sway bar size and still have the same shock package, you need the car to carve corners without traction rolling, "tires stay in contact on all four corners but the actual car leans". To soft and you will have tons of steering and traction roll and to hard and the card will slide and not hook up. I go to two tracks one is lower bite and I only run the rear copper bar no front sway bar with the same shock oil and on the other I put both black sway bars on and the two cars cannot be drove fast on the other track.
The sway bars have nothing to do with on or off power as you described however it does effect steering on both and traction. If you run to thick of a sway bar you will not have the same low speed steering as the car won't be able to roll and you will loose traction as well for the same reason. Set your sway bars up for traction levels in the corners, if your traction rolling then thats an easy adjustment to just go up in sway bar size and still have the same shock package, you need the car to carve corners without traction rolling, "tires stay in contact on all four corners but the actual car leans". To soft and you will have tons of steering and traction roll and to hard and the card will slide and not hook up. I go to two tracks one is lower bite and I only run the rear copper bar no front sway bar with the same shock oil and on the other I put both black sway bars on and the two cars cannot be drove fast on the other track.
#9254
Tech Rookie
What is the purpose of the set screws that go into the shock tower mount? Should I tighten just enough so the sway bar doesn't bounce around?
you are correct on the collors need to be free side to side as well as the set screw that goes into the shock tower mount to not pinch the bar and cause a bind. Basically you want your suspension free and both of these things are noticable if you take your tires and shocks off and try and raise and let the arms fall on there own.
The sway bars have nothing to do with on or off power as you described however it does effect steering on both and traction. If you run to thick of a sway bar you will not have the same low speed steering as the car won't be able to roll and you will loose traction as well for the same reason. Set your sway bars up for traction levels in the corners, if your traction rolling then thats an easy adjustment to just go up in sway bar size and still have the same shock package, you need the car to carve corners without traction rolling, "tires stay in contact on all four corners but the actual car leans". To soft and you will have tons of steering and traction roll and to hard and the card will slide and not hook up. I go to two tracks one is lower bite and I only run the rear copper bar no front sway bar with the same shock oil and on the other I put both black sway bars on and the two cars cannot be drove fast on the other track.
The sway bars have nothing to do with on or off power as you described however it does effect steering on both and traction. If you run to thick of a sway bar you will not have the same low speed steering as the car won't be able to roll and you will loose traction as well for the same reason. Set your sway bars up for traction levels in the corners, if your traction rolling then thats an easy adjustment to just go up in sway bar size and still have the same shock package, you need the car to carve corners without traction rolling, "tires stay in contact on all four corners but the actual car leans". To soft and you will have tons of steering and traction roll and to hard and the card will slide and not hook up. I go to two tracks one is lower bite and I only run the rear copper bar no front sway bar with the same shock oil and on the other I put both black sway bars on and the two cars cannot be drove fast on the other track.