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Old 05-24-2015, 07:07 PM   #9241
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I already have the size pistons you're going to in my car. The kit came with blanks to make what ever size you prefer. I have been running the 1.6. And 1.7 combo since I got the buggy. I'll be making me another front set of 4 hole pistons. 2 holes will be 1.4 and the other 2 will be 1.1. I liked this combo with 1.6 in the rear on my Yokomo. Can't hurt to try.
Do you drill 2 holes or 4 in the pistons?
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Old 05-24-2015, 07:12 PM   #9242
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Part for part everything is interchangeable front to back except the outdrives. What happened to your rear diff?
haven't torn it apart yet to see, but i got on the brakes hard and got a crunching sound. got worse as heat went on and i eventually pulled it off the track. spinning the rear wheels independently yields some unnatural phenomenon...
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Old 05-24-2015, 09:50 PM   #9243
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I figured it out.
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Old 05-26-2015, 06:00 PM   #9244
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this thread needs some photos. here is my hot rod
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Hot Bodies D413 1/10 4WD Buggy-20150523_201513_resized.jpg  
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Old 05-26-2015, 08:36 PM   #9245
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Pretty happy with how the wiring turned out on this buggy. I've had a blast driving this thing so far. Lots of fun.

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Old 05-26-2015, 09:05 PM   #9246
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Pretty happy with how the wiring turned out on this buggy. I've had a blast driving this thing so far. Lots of fun.

I never thought to put the receiver in front of the shorty. Nice clean look without much weight transfer. Might have to give that a try.
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Old 05-26-2015, 10:19 PM   #9247
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haven't torn it apart yet to see, but i got on the brakes hard and got a crunching sound. got worse as heat went on and i eventually pulled it off the track. spinning the rear wheels independently yields some unnatural phenomenon...
More likely your spur gear/mesh then the diffs
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Old 05-26-2015, 11:13 PM   #9248
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More likely your spur gear/mesh then the diffs
How would his spur gear cause an issue when he rotates his rear tires independently?
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Old 05-27-2015, 12:14 AM   #9249
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Moto67 that is some clean wiring and that car still looks brand new. The HB servo horn lines up perfect if you want to try it and try moving in your sway bar stays in more to let sway bar move more freely. See if that improves your car, but very clean you should be proud
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Old 05-27-2015, 12:34 AM   #9250
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Moto67 that is some clean wiring and that car still looks brand new. The HB servo horn lines up perfect if you want to try it and try moving in your sway bar stays in more to let sway bar move more freely. See if that improves your car, but very clean you should be proud
Thanks for the kind words and thanks for the advice. I will definitely change those sway bars.
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Old 05-27-2015, 06:12 AM   #9251
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Moto67 that is some clean wiring and that car still looks brand new. The HB servo horn lines up perfect if you want to try it and try moving in your sway bar stays in more to let sway bar move more freely. See if that improves your car, but very clean you should be proud
Nitro would you explain how to move the sway bar stays?
I have had people tell me to remove the front sway bar so I tried that last week and did not notice a significant change. I would like to try your mod.
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Old 05-27-2015, 08:26 AM   #9252
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Nitro would you explain how to move the sway bar stays?
I have had people tell me to remove the front sway bar so I tried that last week and did not notice a significant change. I would like to try your mod.
Good morning, you will not see big changes with sway bars just that slight improvement. It's not a mod, I'm talking about the little orange collars. If you have those to far a part the sway bar can't move and will not work properly. You should be able to compress suspension till chassis hits ground a still be able to slide sway bar side to side.ill post pic this afternoon.a team manager for team c explained this to me when I 1st started. Heavy /thicker sway bars are for off power cornering and thinner for on power. He seems to be right, I've tested and works for me. Also I don't remember the Manuel showing or talking anything about sway bar adjustment. Lol
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Old 05-27-2015, 10:18 AM   #9253
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Good morning, you will not see big changes with sway bars just that slight improvement. It's not a mod, I'm talking about the little orange collars. If you have those to far a part the sway bar can't move and will not work properly. You should be able to compress suspension till chassis hits ground a still be able to slide sway bar side to side.ill post pic this afternoon.a team manager for team c explained this to me when I 1st started. Heavy /thicker sway bars are for off power cornering and thinner for on power. He seems to be right, I've tested and works for me. Also I don't remember the Manuel showing or talking anything about sway bar adjustment. Lol
you are correct on the collors need to be free side to side as well as the set screw that goes into the shock tower mount to not pinch the bar and cause a bind. Basically you want your suspension free and both of these things are noticable if you take your tires and shocks off and try and raise and let the arms fall on there own.

The sway bars have nothing to do with on or off power as you described however it does effect steering on both and traction. If you run to thick of a sway bar you will not have the same low speed steering as the car won't be able to roll and you will loose traction as well for the same reason. Set your sway bars up for traction levels in the corners, if your traction rolling then thats an easy adjustment to just go up in sway bar size and still have the same shock package, you need the car to carve corners without traction rolling, "tires stay in contact on all four corners but the actual car leans". To soft and you will have tons of steering and traction roll and to hard and the card will slide and not hook up. I go to two tracks one is lower bite and I only run the rear copper bar no front sway bar with the same shock oil and on the other I put both black sway bars on and the two cars cannot be drove fast on the other track.
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Old 05-27-2015, 10:35 AM   #9254
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Originally Posted by jjl1 View Post
Nitro would you explain how to move the sway bar stays?
I have had people tell me to remove the front sway bar so I tried that last week and did not notice a significant change. I would like to try your mod.
here is this photo of orange collars on sway bar. my car looks more like a rat rod compared to moto67 car. any feed back to improve or fix my car let me know guys.
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Hot Bodies D413 1/10 4WD Buggy-20150527_075802_resized.jpg  
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Old 05-27-2015, 10:39 AM   #9255
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Originally Posted by kevink123 View Post
you are correct on the collors need to be free side to side as well as the set screw that goes into the shock tower mount to not pinch the bar and cause a bind. Basically you want your suspension free and both of these things are noticable if you take your tires and shocks off and try and raise and let the arms fall on there own.

The sway bars have nothing to do with on or off power as you described however it does effect steering on both and traction. If you run to thick of a sway bar you will not have the same low speed steering as the car won't be able to roll and you will loose traction as well for the same reason. Set your sway bars up for traction levels in the corners, if your traction rolling then thats an easy adjustment to just go up in sway bar size and still have the same shock package, you need the car to carve corners without traction rolling, "tires stay in contact on all four corners but the actual car leans". To soft and you will have tons of steering and traction roll and to hard and the card will slide and not hook up. I go to two tracks one is lower bite and I only run the rear copper bar no front sway bar with the same shock oil and on the other I put both black sway bars on and the two cars cannot be drove fast on the other track.
Thanks kevin, you explained that waaay better than me. let see some more car pics I need ideas to improve my car.
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