Tekin RS Gen 2
#1366
I need to check battery because when I plugged it backwards. This is the battery I was using. maybe it's shorted also.
Just so you know it accepts nuetral then LED goes to far right and chimes asking for full throttle but nothing happens. I held full throttle for like 3-4 min nothing. Led just blinks in the right corner
Just so you know it accepts nuetral then LED goes to far right and chimes asking for full throttle but nothing happens. I held full throttle for like 3-4 min nothing. Led just blinks in the right corner
All speedo's do not respond well if reverse polarity is plugged in.
#1367
Tech Master
iTrader: (4)
If you plugged the the battery in Backwards even for a 100th of a second you usually damage the rec. I would be more surprised that it works at all. Be aware sometimes you damage the fet and even if it functions it may not for vary long.
All speedo's do not respond well if reverse polarity is plugged in.
All speedo's do not respond well if reverse polarity is plugged in.
#1368
ahh.... Sounds like it is not seeing the signal. check your travel. make sure you are 100 or more and try reversing servo. Also make sure you do not have the brake turned down.
#1370
lol Glad you figured it out.
#1371
Has anyone ran a 7.5 with one of these? I know.... it is not made for it, blah blah blah. just curious if someone has? I bet it can. Maybe add a fan?
#1372
will it run . Yes
Will it over heat thermal and shut down in a short period. Yes
Recommendation.. If you want to run a lower wind mod motor then recommended buy the correct speedo for the job.
Will it over heat thermal and shut down in a short period. Yes
Recommendation.. If you want to run a lower wind mod motor then recommended buy the correct speedo for the job.
#1373
Tech Champion
iTrader: (159)
I can run an 8.5 in my 2wd buggy without issues by running in dual mode, but that makes it feel like a 10.5. If I try to use that same 8.5 with 30 degrees of timing and a little bit of boost to make it as powerful as a 7.5, I thermal after 4 to 6 minutes.
Personally, I don't think it's worth it. If you want the small footprint, pick up the RS Pro black edition. It will handle a 7.5 in any 2wd vehicle since it has 4 times as many FETs as the RS Gen2. If the Gen2 and a 7.5 is all you have and you want to run mod this weekend, I can post a setup to keep it running as cool as possible, but it will feel like a 9.5.
#1374
Thanks, I just wanted to see if it was possible. I was thinking 4wd buggy, no boost, indoor track, clay. These things are like way higher than what they are rated for. I still think it could be done with a fan.
#1376
Tech Champion
iTrader: (159)
The original RS Pro was marketed as a mod speed control, but it was hard to keep cool in 4wd classes even though it has more than twice the FETs of the current RSX. That is why the new RS Pro Black Edition is marketed towards the stock/spec classes with its crazy low resistance thanks to all those FETs. The plastic case on the RS Gen2 was designed to be small and lightweight. It doesn't help with heat dissipation at all.
If you are going to try it anyways, add an additional capacitor and aim the fan directly at the soldering posts on the speed control. I would suggest starting in dual mode with the timing advance in the speed control set to 30.
#1378
Tech Rookie
Hi,
I'm looking for some advice with regards to my Tekin RS Gen 2 in 13.5 Blinky (Touring car on-road). I usually race boosted and I've had no issues with the ESC until attempting to try blinky (or locked stock mode on the ESC) on friday. I run at a small indoor club on race carpet... roughly 20m x 12m, using an R1 Wurks motor and Intellect 6000 LiHV battery in an Xray T4'17. It is my first time running blinky, but with the advice of others, my motor timing is 45 degrees at a final drive ratio of 4.94. I believe that this is in the ball-park for the size of track (if not slightly 'tame'). I reduced the throttle frequency from 6,000 Hz to 2,000 Hz after the first race.
On friday, I struggled to complete any of the races due to my ESC cutting out at around 1.5 minutes into the race. Each of the 3 races it did exactly the same. Cuts out but still has steering (from what I can recall). Motor temp's were low and normal at around 50 degrees C external and in the final race, I measured the external temperature of the motor as well as the ESC at 50 deg C again.
However, I did manage to get a data log from the last race and that indicated that the ESC was overheating. Beginning at around 56 deg C at the start of the race (after a couple of laps of practice) before ramping up to 80 deg C in the first 30 seconds and then on to 165 deg C when it cut out at around 90 seconds.
I believe this is the issue, but I'm unsure why it is overheating. All of the soldering looks good on inspection (capacitor secure and well soldered). I have tried 3 different sensor wires and checked that the ESC is seeing the sensors with the LED lights and that all seems correct. When running in boosted and blinky, there don't seem to be any abnormalities.
It would be great to have some advice/direction on what to do next. Could it be a fault with the ESC?
Thanks in advance
Jonathan
I'm looking for some advice with regards to my Tekin RS Gen 2 in 13.5 Blinky (Touring car on-road). I usually race boosted and I've had no issues with the ESC until attempting to try blinky (or locked stock mode on the ESC) on friday. I run at a small indoor club on race carpet... roughly 20m x 12m, using an R1 Wurks motor and Intellect 6000 LiHV battery in an Xray T4'17. It is my first time running blinky, but with the advice of others, my motor timing is 45 degrees at a final drive ratio of 4.94. I believe that this is in the ball-park for the size of track (if not slightly 'tame'). I reduced the throttle frequency from 6,000 Hz to 2,000 Hz after the first race.
On friday, I struggled to complete any of the races due to my ESC cutting out at around 1.5 minutes into the race. Each of the 3 races it did exactly the same. Cuts out but still has steering (from what I can recall). Motor temp's were low and normal at around 50 degrees C external and in the final race, I measured the external temperature of the motor as well as the ESC at 50 deg C again.
However, I did manage to get a data log from the last race and that indicated that the ESC was overheating. Beginning at around 56 deg C at the start of the race (after a couple of laps of practice) before ramping up to 80 deg C in the first 30 seconds and then on to 165 deg C when it cut out at around 90 seconds.
I believe this is the issue, but I'm unsure why it is overheating. All of the soldering looks good on inspection (capacitor secure and well soldered). I have tried 3 different sensor wires and checked that the ESC is seeing the sensors with the LED lights and that all seems correct. When running in boosted and blinky, there don't seem to be any abnormalities.
It would be great to have some advice/direction on what to do next. Could it be a fault with the ESC?
Thanks in advance
Jonathan