Krio

iTrader: (159)

Here you go:
https://www.teamtekin.com/assets/tws...ce_request.pdf

Greg M

iTrader: (8)

For blinkly 17.5, can you tell the difference between the spec and non-spec? Wondering if I should get the spec or not.

Krio

iTrader: (159)

You might be able to tell a tiny, tiny bit. I would base my decision between the two on whether you might want to run a 10.5 or 8.5 in a mod class at some point in the future as you can adjust timing boost, turbo, and other settings that aren't available on the spec version.

Casper

iTrader: (34)

Spec version really should not run anything more than a 17.5 due to reduction in fets in that ESC it cannot handle hotter motors. It is a spec only ESC. The Regular RS Gen 2 has more fets and can run mild modifieds (13.5-8.5) in lighter 2wd cars (buggy and ST)

TRUGGYRACER1

iTrader: (42)

Can you use the Bluetooth programmer with the rs gen2 spec?

Randy_Pike

iTrader: (6)

Yes

platgof

iTrader: (4)

Just picked this up with a Tekin 8.5 for mod buggy.

kaistas

iTrader: (6)

Is this a good choice to power my Fantom v2t in a tlr 22 3.0 SR buggy with a 100C battery? I just noticed the 60amps per phase spec over on the product page, and was wondering if that would limit the power transfer in any way. I don't plan on doing mod at all.

Krio

iTrader: (159)

Yes, the RS Gen2 is great for spec classes. Most 17.5 motors peak at 30 amps for very short times, so don't worry about the esc being a bottleneck on the track. I occasionally run an 8.5 turn motor with my RS Gen2 without issues in mod buggy, but that's right at the limit.

If you want to have the absolute lowest resistance setup, pick up the RS Pro Black Edition.

kaistas

iTrader: (6)

Thanks for the reassurance!

I do have an RS Pro Black powering a Spec-R 17.5 in my touring car, and love it, but I just can't afford 2 of them at this time. As much as I want to =)

Bubonic-X

iTrader: (4)

I'm getting some kind of error when I try calibrate. Comes on as normal. Then hold mode button to start calibration, it beeps as it accepted the nuetral position then it either flickers or beeps on the 9th position witch is voltage cutoff and won't continue the calibration process. Any ideas?

Krio

iTrader: (159)

I'm not sure I follow 100%, but here's how it should go:
Hold mode until it chimes and blinks the center led.
Release the mode button. You won't have to touch it again.
Don't touch the throttle.
ESC will chime and flash once neutral is accepted.
Far right led will blink, meaning the esc is looking for full throttle.
Apply full throttle on the radio.
Hold until the esc chimes again.
Far left led will blink, meaning the esc is looking for full brakes/reverse.
Apply full brakes on the radio.
Hold full brakes until esc chimes/flashes.
Release throttle back to neutral.
ESC will wait for a second to see neutral.
ESC will chime and arm, allowing the motor to be powered.

Bubonic-X

iTrader: (4)

I need to check battery because when I plugged it backwards. This is the battery I was using. maybe it's shorted also.
Just so you know it accepts nuetral then LED goes to far right and chimes asking for full throttle but nothing happens. I held full throttle for like 3-4 min nothing. Led just blinks in the right corner

jkaetz

iTrader: (1)

Reverse the throttle channel on your transmitter and try again.

Krio

iTrader: (159)

What jkaetz said. Plus double check that all your EPA settings are maxed out and any dual rate setting is off as well.