Team Associated TC5
#8671
Tech Master
iTrader: (32)
Firstly--on rubber tire there is generally not a RANGE of pinions which, used with a given spur, creates a certain FDR...there is A pinion. Rubber tire diameter does not decrease appreciably which is why FDR becomes relevant. Foam tires, otoh, wear down and change the overall ratio (roll-out).
Secondly--if you've already found gearchart.com then the answer to your pinion is, literally, at the tips of your fingers. Open the gearchart creator, select Associated TC5 from the menu (which will auto-fill the transmission ratio field), enter your spur gear size (87), and request "middle" in the plot spur/pinion options. From there take a guess on the pinion size and click "Gear Ratio". Don't see 4.0 bracketed in the 87 column, or it is toward the top or bottom of the chart, go back to the entry page and change your pinion selection toward it. Guessing costs nothing but a couple seconds.
I could tell you the number, but this is really something you're going to have to do yourself. Teach a man to fish...
Thirdly--converting from 48p to 64p is simply a matter of applying junior high pre-algebra. What you're doing is comparing ratios. You have the 87t 48p spur, you want to find the same size 64p spur. Your ratios look like this:
REMEMBER THAT / MEANS "DIVIDED BY". In this example, t is the unknown number of teeth.
87/48 = t/64
The important thing here is that your pitch numbers have to either both be numerators (top numbers) or both be denominators (bottom numbers), likewise for the teeth number(s). The cool thing with ratios is that it doesn't matter which you choose for either (my ratio above spits out exactly the same answer if you invert the fractions and put the pitch numbers in the numerator).
To find t you will solve (87 X 64)/48.....remember to perform the operation in parentheses first...THEN divide.
This will give you the number of teeth in 64p on a spur gear that is the same diameter as the one you already have. This works because it is a strictly linear relationship. The other neat thing is that you will pretty much ALWAYS find there is a 64p equivalent to any of your 48p sizes (thought the inverse relationship doesn't seem to necessarily be true as we get down to very small 64p spur sizes). My guess is this is because the spur "blanks" are certain diameters and the teeth for either pitch are cut into those.
Secondly--if you've already found gearchart.com then the answer to your pinion is, literally, at the tips of your fingers. Open the gearchart creator, select Associated TC5 from the menu (which will auto-fill the transmission ratio field), enter your spur gear size (87), and request "middle" in the plot spur/pinion options. From there take a guess on the pinion size and click "Gear Ratio". Don't see 4.0 bracketed in the 87 column, or it is toward the top or bottom of the chart, go back to the entry page and change your pinion selection toward it. Guessing costs nothing but a couple seconds.
I could tell you the number, but this is really something you're going to have to do yourself. Teach a man to fish...
Thirdly--converting from 48p to 64p is simply a matter of applying junior high pre-algebra. What you're doing is comparing ratios. You have the 87t 48p spur, you want to find the same size 64p spur. Your ratios look like this:
REMEMBER THAT / MEANS "DIVIDED BY". In this example, t is the unknown number of teeth.
87/48 = t/64
The important thing here is that your pitch numbers have to either both be numerators (top numbers) or both be denominators (bottom numbers), likewise for the teeth number(s). The cool thing with ratios is that it doesn't matter which you choose for either (my ratio above spits out exactly the same answer if you invert the fractions and put the pitch numbers in the numerator).
To find t you will solve (87 X 64)/48.....remember to perform the operation in parentheses first...THEN divide.
This will give you the number of teeth in 64p on a spur gear that is the same diameter as the one you already have. This works because it is a strictly linear relationship. The other neat thing is that you will pretty much ALWAYS find there is a 64p equivalent to any of your 48p sizes (thought the inverse relationship doesn't seem to necessarily be true as we get down to very small 64p spur sizes). My guess is this is because the spur "blanks" are certain diameters and the teeth for either pitch are cut into those.
#8673
Jag88,
I had some of the orginal silver ones and a quick applcaition of the blue sharpe and presto you have a sweet incorrect shade of blue mount. LOL.
I really need to raid the niece's marker box and see if I can find a shade that is closer. If I find one I'll surely let everyone in on it.
Friday will be pretty tough to make, I'm still trying to catch up from the NEGS race.
James
I had some of the orginal silver ones and a quick applcaition of the blue sharpe and presto you have a sweet incorrect shade of blue mount. LOL.
I really need to raid the niece's marker box and see if I can find a shade that is closer. If I find one I'll surely let everyone in on it.
Friday will be pretty tough to make, I'm still trying to catch up from the NEGS race.
James
#8674
Tech Champion
iTrader: (261)
Not sure how you picked the 88t spur, hopefully it wasn't from trying to convert your existing spur to 64p...though your existing spur is WAY bigger than it needs to be. You'd need pinions in the upper 50's to get down to the FDR you say you want so I don't think that would fit. You'd have a MONSTER spur gear combined with an equally monstrous pinion (though I have pinions up to 60t...gotta be able to hit 90mm rollout for 17.5 1/12 on longer tracks).
Just for checking your math...your 87t 48p spur matches a 116t 64p spur.
I'm pretty sure an 88t spur would fit fine with pinions in the low-40's.
#8675
I have a tc5F
What should i do about keeping my jaco rims from rubbing a hole through my ball cups on the bottom of the shock shafts? anyone else having this problem?
What should i do about keeping my jaco rims from rubbing a hole through my ball cups on the bottom of the shock shafts? anyone else having this problem?
#8677
thanks for the advice
#8678
Hey guys im sure this question has been asked and answered more then once in this thread but with 290 pages to look through I figured it was easier just to ask. If i wanted to convert my TC5R into a TC5F would i have to change anything other then the chassis and top deck? i already have all the hard parts on the car and a diff for the front.
Sean
Sean
#8679
Tech Addict
iTrader: (24)
hey guys been having a blast with with my tc5r,
thinking of building a foam car and gotta question. seems many people at track vary in answer and looking for more info.
with a foam car. cutting the tires down to the rims or 56-57mm. how many runs out of it? 1 club day? 2? more? big races new set each run?
just trying to figure out if i wanna jump into this.
running 10.5 carpet.
thinking of building a foam car and gotta question. seems many people at track vary in answer and looking for more info.
with a foam car. cutting the tires down to the rims or 56-57mm. how many runs out of it? 1 club day? 2? more? big races new set each run?
just trying to figure out if i wanna jump into this.
running 10.5 carpet.
#8680
Tech Elite
iTrader: (44)
Hey guys im sure this question has been asked and answered more then once in this thread but with 290 pages to look through I figured it was easier just to ask. If i wanted to convert my TC5R into a TC5F would i have to change anything other then the chassis and top deck? i already have all the hard parts on the car and a diff for the front.
Sean
Sean
#8681
thanks Jerry
#8682
Trying to order a lipo tray from specialized rc but it won't let me setup an account "incorrect telephone number" i live in the UK. I've tried contacting them via customer services but when i submit it, it takes me to an e-commerce site Can anybody help me please
#8683
hey guys been having a blast with with my tc5r,
thinking of building a foam car and gotta question. seems many people at track vary in answer and looking for more info.
with a foam car. cutting the tires down to the rims or 56-57mm. how many runs out of it? 1 club day? 2? more? big races new set each run?
just trying to figure out if i wanna jump into this.
running 10.5 carpet.
thinking of building a foam car and gotta question. seems many people at track vary in answer and looking for more info.
with a foam car. cutting the tires down to the rims or 56-57mm. how many runs out of it? 1 club day? 2? more? big races new set each run?
just trying to figure out if i wanna jump into this.
running 10.5 carpet.
I run 13.5 TC usuaully cut/start my tires at 56.5-57mm. in a 5 min heat I'm wearing off about .3-.5 mm average of the 4 tires. So by the main (if I use the same tires) I'm usually at the 55.5ish range. Last race I did 'save' a fresh set for 3rd heat and the main. Tire wear may be more w/ a 10.5. I had less tire wear with our older track layout and would only loss about .1-.3mm after a heat. You should rotate them to help even out the wear. I've been running jaco 2x pinks on all fours.
You'll also want to 'round' the edges, inside and outside then CA glue the sidewall. Rounding will help keep the tire from diggin in and traction rolling. Gluing the sidewall will help the tires from chunking (rips from hitting walls/pipes).
With foams, camber adjustments should be based on tire wear. the fronts should be wearing in the middle of the rim, the rears similar but you should have a touch of cone'ing so the inside of the tires are slight smaller than the outside. In time you can eye ball a tire and know how much camber to add or remove.
Some local folks just slap on a new set (60mm out of the box) and you'll most likely have handling issues and maybe traction rolling depending on your setup. I think the smaller sidewalls of 56ish tires works best.
The guys I run w/ that do go to nats....take tons of tires. May or may not be a new set every run....depends on whos paying for the tires!
Hope that helps. Foam really isn't that bad or hard to do. I prefer them over rubbers. You just have to slightly adjust your ride height and droop after each run...sometimes gearing. you'll need some traction compound. Also a stiffer setup than for rubber tires.