Mugen MTX-4
06-17-2007, 07:58 AM
#8656
So how are people getting the new uprights to work with the "old" original arms?
06-17-2007, 06:28 PM
#8660
i have a 4mm knack chassis which is not milled, so it is substantially stiffer than the kawaharra. i found with the 4mm chassis the car was too twitchy, and slightly too responsive to small steering movements. if you are a smooth driver it would be good i guess, but i tryed it about 4 months ago after a long stint not racing, and i didn't like it. (the meet previous to using the 4mm chassis i used the stock 3mm chassis and went alot better)
i will try the 4mm chassis again probably, but i don't see myself sticking to it.
i will try the 4mm chassis again probably, but i don't see myself sticking to it.
i have the same chassis and i need that kind of steering and yes the kknack is more responsive than the kawaharra
yeah ive got the new lower arms, but what i am asking is, is there a change in the lower arms geometry? or is the change in the lower arms just the cut out section?
i noticed the new arms have the pin holes cut out in the arm in a upwards angle, (ie kicking it kick up) i didn't notice this with the old arms
i noticed the new arms have the pin holes cut out in the arm in a upwards angle, (ie kicking it kick up) i didn't notice this with the old arms
06-17-2007, 06:31 PM
#8661
its hard to explain i just like the workmanship of the ninja and it runs nice.
06-20-2007, 03:34 PM
#8662
anyone has tried a one way solid axle? such as atomic
just wondering it it is good quality
just wondering it it is good quality
06-21-2007, 05:47 AM
#8665
06-21-2007, 05:55 AM
#8666
try standing the shocks 1 hole.
but if you run on a small track try a diff up front and use 30.000 oil and the rear use 10.000, this is easy to drive this way and you can never traction roll,
but it may be a tad slower in the corners.
with running diffs my shocks are
front, piston 1.2 oil 450, spring purple
rear, piston stock, oil 450, spring light blue.
tires 37 or 40.
06-21-2007, 06:03 AM
#8667
if you are running a 1 way this can be a problem
try standing the shocks 1 hole.
but if you run on a small track try a diff up front and use 30.000 oil and the rear use 10.000, this is easy to drive this way and you can never traction roll,
but it may be a tad slower in the corners.
with running diffs my shocks are
front, piston 1.2 oil 450, spring purple
rear, piston stock, oil 450, spring light blue.
tires 37 or 40.
try standing the shocks 1 hole.
but if you run on a small track try a diff up front and use 30.000 oil and the rear use 10.000, this is easy to drive this way and you can never traction roll,
but it may be a tad slower in the corners.
with running diffs my shocks are
front, piston 1.2 oil 450, spring purple
rear, piston stock, oil 450, spring light blue.
tires 37 or 40.
06-21-2007, 06:19 AM
#8668
06-21-2007, 12:08 PM
#8669
I'm going to be putting my MTX-4 up for sale in the next few days for a pretty good price. Front & rear universals, Kawahara one-piece engine mount, hubs and rollover bar plus a few 3Racing upgrades. No electronics or engine. If you're interested in picking it up before it's posted in the For Sale section, send me a PM.
06-21-2007, 12:23 PM
#8670
I'm going to be putting my MTX-4 up for sale in the next few days for a pretty good price. Front & rear universals, Kawahara one-piece engine mount, hubs and rollover bar plus a few 3Racing upgrades. No electronics or engine. If you're interested in picking it up before it's posted in the For Sale section, send me a PM.
I'm selling my G4S ( I bought NT1 ).
And I don't dare to sell my Mugens
j/k